Articles – Page 137 – Aussie on the Road

Learning to Surf in Sydney

November 3, 2010 10 Comments

Over the course of the last year and a half, I’ve done a lot of things I never would have seen myself doing. Scuba diving, running the City 2 Surf, and hiking around the Grand Canyon are amongst them.

I recently added surfing to that list of random experiences.

surfing chris — Preparing to hang ten and catch some gnarly breaks dude!

It perhaps seems unusual that it’s not something I’ve done before. After all, I’m from the country of bronzed beach bums and beautiful blonde babes who practically live on the beach. There’s some truth in that stereotype of course. I spent the better part of every summer as a child on the beach and while I never turned my time to surfing, I spent many scorching hot January mornings boogie boarding and dodging breakers with my siblings.

When Fallon suggested that she’d like to take a weekend surf trip, I wasn’t overjoyed at the idea, but she’d not steered me wrong in the past. And with a friend in from the United States, it seemed like a good, iconic Aussie thing to show him.

Manly Surf Guide

After doing a lot of research into potential surf schools for us to enroll in, Fallon eventually settled on the guys at Manly Surf Guide. While there are a large number of companies offering day long and weekend long surf camps for anyone from beginner level to an expert just looking to see a new part of the world, the lads at Surf Guide offered the best value one day course at $79 a head including all rentals and lunch.

From the very start of the day it was clear that this was the kind of small, hands on operation that deserves the support of tourists and locals alike. The ‘surf shop’ was little more than a garage stocked with surf boards, surf DVDs, and a modest array of merchandise. It all had a very down to earth charm, which is what I associate with surfing.

Our guide, Ryan, met us at the Manly Wharf and we joined a group of Spanish backpackers and a local couple in the van for the ride out to get fitted for wet suits. A brief stop at the aforementioned ‘surf shop’ had us clutching wet suits and ready for our first brush with the surf.

freshwater2 — A likely bunch of budding surfers

The day’s venue was Dee Why Beach, but the boys also run days out at Manly Beach and Freshwater Beach. Dee Why Beach is pretty much what you expect of an Aussie beach: beautiful women in bikinis, lifesavers keeping a watchful eye on the kids playing in the surf, white sand, big waves, and plenty of cute cafes offering good food and great views.

Sydney had turned out a fantastic day for us and sun screen was liberally applied before we wet-suited up and practiced ‘popping’ onto our boards. I felt like Jason Segal in Forgetting Sarah Marshall as my instructor had me popping up over and over again on the hot sand, but soon we were hitting the water and were grateful for the wet suits and the scorching sun overhead. The water, a balmy 20 degrees, soon felt fine – but it was a damned shock when we first waded out into the breakers!

The tide was coming in and the waves were coming thick and fast, and that made getting out to a good spot to catch a break a bit difficult. Thankfully the instructors (both top blokes) were on hand to tow us out from time to time and instruct us on which waves to chase and get us set. Before too long a few of the more dexterous members of our group were standing – and I’m proud to say that by day’s end I’d also managed the feat. Fallon and Adam weren’t quite as successful, but both managed to catch a wave or two before plunging back into the water.

I should make the disclaimer that I didn’t manage to stay up longer than two seconds all day. Unless kneeling on my board counts. I’m pretty sure it doesn’t. I won’t soon be doing Australia’s surf traditions proud in Hawaii or down on Bell’s Beach.

Lunch on the Waterfront

freshwater — The stunning Freshwater Beach

Our first two hour surf lesson was over before we knew it, but I’m sure I wasn’t alone in being grateful as we dried off in the sun and stripped out of our wet-suits. Don’t be fooled by the laid back style of surfers – it’s hard work paddling out beyond the breakers, and I ached all over from the effort of hauling myself up onto the board only to be thrown back off it a few seconds later.

While we all stretched out and soaked in some sun, the boys put together our lunch. They say hunger is the best seasoning, and we’d certainly worked up a fierce hunger out in the water. The modest lunch of deli meats, rolls, and salad really hit the spot. One of our Spanish companions, a pretty blonde with a hilarious accent, declared it the best sandwich she’d ever had.

The boys also served up sodas and beers for us, and that lead to some interesting discussion as I explained to a pair of Italian lads why we have low alcohol content beer. Their thoughts?

“Drink a fucking Coke”.

Before too long we were headed back to the water, but my continued defiance of lactose intolerance had come back to bite me – and I instead had to watch on from the beach for fear I’d devastate my wet-suit. I contented myself with checking out a few local cafes and doing some writing on the beach while trying not to be distracted by the girls sunbathing topless beside me.

Seeing the Sights

After the lessons were done, the guys provided us with a few beers and some post surf muesli bars before we piled back into the van and went on a whistle-stop tour of the northern beaches. We stopped on the headland overlooking the utterly stunning Freshwater Beach, and Fallon and I resolved to return for some snorkeling later in the year.

Then it was time to pose with ‘The Duke’ – the man credited with popularizing surfing in Australia. The lads patiently snapped photos of us before it was time to call it a day. Those staying on for the night went one way, and we were dropped off down by The Esplanade to find our ways home.

More Beer

It wouldn’t be a day in my life without some good beer, and Manly offers plenty of options on that front. My personal favourite is the 4 Pines Brewery – which offers up some great meals and some particularly good locally brewed beers. We splashed out on the reasonably priced ($15) sampler – which offers five of their finest beers. We soon settled on their fragrant Kolsch as our beer of choice, and ordered up some fries while we waited for the rest of our party to arrive.

Before to long we’d gained control of a corner of the bar and ordered up a feast of burgers, pasta, beer, and soda. Fallon and I split a pretty amazing Ploughman’s Platter so we’d still have room for some Cold Rock on the way home, and everybody seemed to enjoy their meals.

The food is a tad expensive and you pay brewery prices for your beer, but it’s worth the extra cash for the quality of the food and the quality of the view out over the harbour.

The Verdict

Will I go surfing again? Probably not. I had a great time and the boys at Manly Surf Guide were accommodating and made good teachers, but it just wasn’t for me. Maybe it wasn’t helped by the rough surf making it a battle to get out to catch a wave, or maybe it was just that there are other things I’d rather do on the beach. Snorkeling, body surfing, and scuba diving all rank above it for me.

That said, I’m glad I went. Surfing is as Australian as a BBQ and a beer; a game of footy on a Saturday afternoon; and a summer sunburn.

If you’re in Sydney and have a spare day to kill, change things up and do something active rather than visiting another boring museum or crowded tourist trap.

Countdowns, Sydney

The Ultimate Sydney Bucket List: Top 10 Must See Sydney Sights

November 2, 2010 11 Comments

In a slight change of pace from my recent booze-centric Top 10s, here’s one that’s a little more relevant to travel.

I’ve been lucky enough to call Sydney my home since March of this year, and in that time I’ve probably managed to see and experience more of it from a tourist’s perspective than most people who have spent their entire lives here. Call it the benefit of having a tourist for a girlfriend.

There are countless things to see and do here, but I’m going to narrow it down to my top ten and count them down for your viewing pleasure.

#10 – Explore the Rocks

Most people who pay a visit to Sydney will have experienced The Rocks. Sydney’s historic district is jam packed with trendy cafes, pubs, and gift shops as well as a large selection of tour companies promising to show you the great city’s historic underbelly.

Enjoy some authentic Australian crocodile meat at Hart’s Pub in The Rocks

Nestled at the eastern foot of the Sydney Harbour Bridge and just a short walk from the Circular Quay travel hub, there’s no excuse not to pay The Rocks a visit while you’re in town. Whether you’re looking for a bite to eat, a cold beverage, or some expensive opal shopping – you’re going to find it in The Rocks. There are plenty of tour options ranging from a bike tour to a late night ghost tour to a more sedate walking tour for those wanting to get in touch with the country’s roots.

Not an out of towner? There’s still plenty of good reasons to pay the area a visit. My favourite pub in Sydney, Hart’s Pub, is in The Rocks – and it’s not far to other great pubs such as the Lord Nelson and the Hero of Waterloo. But I’ll cover those later.

Pay a visit to the Susannah Place Museum and shop where you can pick up some old school candy or a few souvenirs, or visit the area after the sun sets to search out a bargain at the Markets by Moonlight. There’s so much to do that I’ve barely managed to scrape the surface, so visit their website and take a look for yourself.

#9 – Spend a day on the beach

A visit to Australia really isn’t complete without spending at least a day (and preferably more) on one of its picturesque beaches. While Sydney might not boast the best Australia has to offer as far as beaches go (a short trip down to the south coast or up to Newcastle offers better, less crowded fare) – there’s still plenty of fantastic spots to lay out a towel and soak up some sun on a hot summer day.

The general recommendation for tourists is the permanently crowded Bondi Beach, and for sheer novelty value, it’s worth a visit. My personal preferences lie a short ferry ride from Circular Quay on the northern beaches, where Manly Beach is my personal pick. Coogee Beach in the south is also a perennial favourite, and there’s no shortage of alternatives in between.

If you’re feeling adventurous, you can take a surf course. My recommendation there would be Manly Surf Guide for an affordable but informative day out.

Australia’s beach culture also offers up plenty of good food and ice cold beer, and you’ll find a wide selection no matter where you go.

If you follow my advice and hit Manly, you’re in for a real treat. The Esplanade offers a huge selection of dining options and plenty of ice cream shops to keep you cool, and it’s close to the mind blowing 4 Pines Brewery and gorgeous Shelly Beach.

#8 – Kayak in Bundeena

A two hour train ride south of Sydney is the Bundeena National Park. It’s hard to believe such an idyllic, laid back community can exist so close to the hustle and bustle of Sydney, but you’ll step off of your ferry from Cronulla and be blown away by this tiny slice of paradise. The ferry ride itself is a treat, as you cut across in one of the cutest ferries you’ll ever encounter.

Whether you want to go fishing, spend a day exploring the town, or rent a kayak and find a quiet little picnic spot for yourself – there’s plenty to like about one of Sydney’s better kept secrets.

My visit earlier in the year included a day of kayaking, a quiet picnic lunch on the riverbanks, and a walk along the beach to finish out the day. It might be a little out of the way, but if you’re looking for a change of pace – you’re going to find it in Bundeena.

#7 – Have a beer

This one goes hand in hand with The Rocks at #10, but it really warrants an entry of its own. The area around The Rocks boasts a big selection of micro-breweries and pubs that offer up the best Sydney has in terms of beer. My personal favourite is Hart’s Pub with its range of local beers and fantastic food, but there’s plenty of praise out there for the Lord Nelson’s beers and meat pies.

The Hero of Waterloo, another bar claiming to be Sydney’s oldest, is a bit hit or miss as far as a crowd goes – but it definitely looks and feels old as you perch on an uncomfortable pew and soak in some acoustic music. There’s more typical Australian pubs in the form of The Australian, and the ever popular Lowenbrau which has a broad selection of German biers and fare.

If you want to venture outside of The Rocks, and I’d recommend it, there’s also great bars all around the city. Sweeney’s Hotel has some great Thai food and a brilliant view of the city; the Watershed seems to factor in its spectacular harbour view when pricing its beer; and the backpacker haven that is the Shark Bar is a low rent alternative if you’re counting your coins. I have mates who swear by the Bavarian Bier Cafe as well, although I’ve not had the pleasure just yet.

Fancy a younger scene? The Madison is right outside Central Station and aims for the younger crowd, and Oxford Street and King’s Cross offer up many pubs and clubs for the more energetic set.

Don’t overlook the offerings of other cultures either. There’s plenty of great karaoke bars in the city run by Japanese and Korean immigrants. My personal favourite is above BBQ City just outside Museum Station, but the perennial favourite in the city seems to be the Ding Dong Dang in Surry Hills. Just don’t expect class.

Australians love to drink and there’s never going to be a shortage of places to do your drinking. There are entire websites dedicated to the best pubs and the best beers in the city. Just venture out, pick a venue, and enjoy an ice cold brew.

#6 – Visit the Blue Mountains

I only recently waxed lyrical about Sydney’s western neighbor, so I’ll direct you to my entry on the subject rather than going into specific details.

But if you like hiking, arts & crafts, and great photo opportunities – you’re going to enjoy a visit to the scenic Blue Mountains.

#5 – Take a Harbour Cruise

There’s no shortage of options if you want to get out on a boat and soak in the world’s most beautiful natural harbour, but my personal preference is with the very good Captain Cook Cruises. I took a twilight cocktail cruise with them earlier in the year, and can’t complain about the service or the beautiful view we were afforded.

Thrillseekers can instead splash out on one of the many jet boats that offer twenty minute tours of the harbour at break-neck speeds, and there’s also sailing if you’re after a more sedate day out on the water.

Can’t afford a dinner cruise? A ride around the harbour on one of the Sydney Ferries is a cheap way to see the sites. Make sure you snap photos of the Opera House, Luna Park, and the world’s most recognizable bridge. The ferries also offer up a great chance to explore areas such as Manly, Milson’s Point, and Balmain.

#4 – Scuba dive or Snorkel the Northern Beaches

I mentioned beaches earlier, but what lies beneath the waves needs a mention of their own. I’ve not yet had the pleasure of going underwater in Sydney yet, but I’m intent on snorkeling Freshwater and scuba diving Shelly Beach before the year is out.

My PADI trainer recommended Shelly Beach and my research also suggests it is one of the best sites in Sydney for it due to its calm waters and the variety of aquatic wildlife in the area. There’s also plenty of love for Gordon Bay, so be sure to give that a look if you fancy taking in some underwater action while in Sydney.

There’s no shortage of websites offering up opinions on the matter, so do a little research and see what appeals to you.

#3 – Catch a game of footy

Australians love their sport, and Sydney offers up the best there is to see from Australia’s four football codes. While you won’t catch me at a Super 15 or AFL (Aussie Rules) game anytime soon, plenty of backpackers and locals come together to cheer on the NSW Waratahs or Sydney Swans when they’re in town.

Rugby League is the most prevalent sport in the city, and you almost always find a game in the city during the NRL season. The city boasts the Sydney Roosters, Canterbury Bulldogs, Cronulla Sharks, Wests Tigers, St George/Illawarra Dragons, Parramatta Eels, South Sydney Rabbitohs, and Manly Sea Eagles – so pick a team, buy a jersey, and show your support to the most popular sport on Australia’s east coast. The NRL season runs from March through September – but there’s usually a post season international or two to catch if you fancy watching the Australian Kangaroos hammer some minnows from the Pacific islands.

In the summer months the sport doesn’t stop – with the A-League (soccer) and the cricket season in full swing. Sydney FC are the local football club, and there’s derby matches between nearby Central Coast and Newcastle to look forward to, as well as occasional exhibition matches between the Sky Blues and visiting clubs.

#2 – Darling Harbour

The site of the 2010 FIFA World Cup Live Site was well chosen. While Circular Quay might have the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge, Darling Harbour has the best food in the city and plenty of things to see and do. The IMAX cinema is a popular site during winter when the weather isn’t so good, and there’s the Sydney Aquarium and Wildlife World there to occupy the little ones.

It’s not so much what there is to do in Darling Harbour that I love, but just the whole vibe of the place. There’s always people strolling along the waterfront or dining in the many restaurants that line it – and there’s plenty of nearby parkland full of fountains to help you relax after a busy day.

You’re a stone’s throw from Sydney’s Chinatown district and its many sights and sounds and a short walk from Paddy’s Markets where you’ll be able to pick up a few cheap souvenirs to send home to the unlucky bastards who couldn’t accompany you.

#1 – Sydney Harbour Bridge Climb

What better way to celebrate your time in Sydney than to shout it out loud from atop the city’s most recognizable landmark? A climb up the bridge is the thing I would recommend to every single visitor – regardless of their age or their level of fitness. The climb isn’t nearly as intimidating as it might look or sound, and the view at the end of it all is well worth a few minutes of grunting and grimacing your way up the stairs.

Prices range from $188 for a night climb (and in summer these start early enough for you to catch the sunset) to $298 for a dawn climb. These prices do jump up a bit during peak season (Dec 27 to Jan 6) – but all prices include a photograph of you and your climbing partners and a certificate to say you did it. Extra photos are $20, but worth it if you want a more personalized touch.

The guides are great fun and the entire experience is worth the somewhat hefty price tag. You can read more about my experiences with it here.

sydney bucket list

Australia, Sydney

Exploring the Blue Mountains

November 1, 2010 8 Comments

The standard sights in Sydney are obvious. If you’re in the ‘Big Smoke’, you pay a visit to Bondi Beach; spend a day exploring Sydney Harbour and taking in the iconic sights; and maybe splash out on a bridge climb or a harbour cruise. But too many back-packers and tourists breeze through without being aware of how much natural beauty lies just a few hours inland.

The Blue Mountains are more of a vast, sandstone plateau intersected by a number of gorges that combine to make it something resembling a fertile Grand Canyon-esque attraction. Lying about two hours west of Sydney via train (and a return ticket is a very affordable $10.80) – the Blue Mountains offer a pleasant alternative to the hustle and bustle of the city. The name, if you’re curious, comes from the blue haze that clouds the mountains as a result of the massive Eucalyptus population in the area.

The Trip

The train trip, thankfully, is in one of City Rail’s inter-city trains – so you’re afforded a tad more comfort (and the all important bathroom) than you would expect to find on a suburban train. The view rapidly changes from the built up industry of the inner city to quaint suburban homes and then to the more typical idea of Australian bush.

Our own trip started with a minor hiccup after Fallon accidentally left her Canon SX10 IS on an earlier train ride, but the people at City Rail acted quickly once we reported it – and we were able to retrieve it a few stations down the line and save ourselves a big headache and a $500 camera replacement bill.

The hiccup done, we whiled away the trip alternating between gazing out the window and playing a bit of Man Bites Dog. It’s a lengthy trip and the view, while attractive, isn’t particularly interesting – so I’d advise bringing alone a book or making sure your iPhone is fully charged before you head out.

Katoomba, The Trolley, and Leura Village

Katoomba, much like Kuranda in far North Queensland, is a town that knows that its primary exports are tourism and crafts. The streets are lined with quaint cafes, bookstores, antique shops, gift stores, and various tour companies offering to show you the Blue Mountains in pretty much whatever way you’d like. It was a nice change of pace to not be signing up for an adrenaline activity such as abseiling or rock climbing, and instead booking some tickets on an all day trolley tour of the Blue Mountains with Blue Mountains Trolley Tours.

A delicious pavlova from the Post Office Cafe.

The ‘trolley’ is more of a kitted out bus, but they run regularly and a day pass with admission to Scenic World included is a reasonable $44. Definitely better than walking all around the hilly collection of villages. The staff, in a trend that would continue across the entire day, were super friendly and eager to help out – even if it meant stopping the bus for an unscheduled photo break or making a cafe recommendation.

Our first stop would be Leura Village, which I have vague memories of from my childhood. A good twenty years has passed since I whined about being dragged into antique shops though, and I enjoyed a walk along the sun dappled streets as we sought out a place for an early lunch.

We eventually settled upon the Post Office Cafe, which cuts an intriguing figure inside the husk of the former Leura Post Office. The prices were at the Sydney level (a tad pricey) but the food portions were generous, the beer selection was good, and their pavlova was a fine introduction to the Aussie icon for our American visitor.

There’s plenty of selection there though. We saw Thai and Chinese restaurants, Italian fare, and the usual swathe of coffee shops and cafes offering everything from sandwiches to gourmet pizzas.

The Hike

Any visit to the Blue Mountains National Park wouldn’t be complete without stepping off of the well worn tourist trails and onto a well worn hiking trail. With the sun hot and high overhead and time at a premium, we settled for the 3km hike from Gordon Falls to Leura Cascades. There’s a few breath-taking vistas to take in early in the walk, but after that it’s pretty much a slog along a muddy path through some pristine but generally uninteresting bushland.

And don’t expect to sit down for a breather along the way. I counted a dozen benches on our walk – and all of them were in a state of disrepair.

The end of the walk offers up another visual treat, and the Leura Cascades are a breath of fresh air after the mostly featureless hike in between. We didn’t have the time we’d have liked to take it all in though, as our bus was waiting for us at the top of the trail and a frantic run was required.

Echo Point & The Three Sisters

The Blue Mountains’ most famous sight is undoubtedly the Three Sisters – a rock formation vaguely resembling a trio of stone sisters. I use the term resembling very loosely. Local legend has it that they were turned to stone to protect them during inter-tribal warfare, but more recently this story has been proven to be a fabrication by European settlers – and having no real ties to Aboriginal dreamtime mythology. Thanks Wikipedia!

The Three Sisters are an iconic Aussie landmark.

Echo Point was positively abuzz with tourists, as you’d expect from the area’s premier destination, but we stuck around long enough to snap a few shots before checking out the Echo Point Arcade for a pit stop and a little opal shopping for Fallon. The owner of the jewelry store there is an absolutely hilarious Hungarian guy with a real passion for what he does. Even if you don’t intend on buying anything, stop by and say hi. He’s a real character.

In fact, we were lucky enough to meet Goomblah while at Echo Point as well. A local aboriginal man who carves and decorates boomerangs for sale – he was kind enough to pose for a photo and autograph Fallon’s boomerang for her. Keep an eye out for him and his didgeridoo performance when you’re there.

Scenic World

Our second to last stop of the day was Scenic World – which I’d heard mixed reviews about from people. The prices there seem a tad steep, but as it was included in our day pass, we didn’t mind at all. The first ‘ride’ of the day is the cable car across to the park. It affords a pretty spectacular view of the Katoomba Falls as well as the vast gorge below, and a glass floor certainly made the ride interesting for the kids who were crammed in with us.

Not the actual Scenic Rail, but similarly steep

Upon arrival at the park, we cashed in our tickets to take the Scenic Railway to the valley floor. It’s the world’s steepest railway and cuts through an 80 metre long natural tunnel, and it’s all made just that little bit more exciting by the Indiana Jones music blaring through the speakers as you plunge down the mountainside and into the darkness.

At the foot of the track is a boardwalked area for hiking, and there’s some interesting exhibitions on the area’s rich coal-mining history as well as plenty of informative sign postings about local flora and fauna. A few great photo opportunities lie along the way as well, so be sure to take your time and check it out.

We weren’t lucky enough to have the time to take one of the longer hikes out to the various mountains and canyons surrounding the park.

With the sunlight fading and our bellies rumbling, we took the cable car back to the top of the gorge and hopped a buzz back to Katoomba.

Scenic World is… worth a look. The staff are funny and friendly and you get to see the area from a unique perspective, but it is a bit pricey for what it offers. Still, I’ll pay for the cable car rather than climbing the 1000 steps up from the valley floor!

Dinner

Our last port of call before heading back to Sydney to call a close to our weekend was the Savoy Cafe, which is right by the station and has a varied menu offering up a wide variety of cuisines. I treated myself to a kangaroo burger, Fallon tried a scrumptious pumpkin and lentil pie, and Adam scoffed down a hearty looking chicken parmigiana. Compared to the other cafes we’d passed during the day, it’s prices were great too. Try the Turkish Delight they have by the cash register too!

We also paid a quick visit to the amusingly named ‘Mr. Pickwick’s Antique Books‘. There’s no shortage of used bookstores in Katoomba and its surrounds, but we found this one to be the pick of the bunch. In addition to two floors of used books; they also had vintage clothes, DVDs and videos, antiques, and a really impressive collection of antique books that would make any collector foam at the mouth. There’s even a kid’s area to keep the young ones occupied while you browse.

All in all it was a good change of pace after a week and a half of taking in the Sydney sights closer to our front door. We were a bit lavish in our food budget, but the entire day could be done on a more modest budget of about $100 if you hit Subway and a bakery instead of the pricier cafes.

It’s not going to be for everybody, but if you want to get some fresh air and exercise your camera skills, there’s plenty to like about the Blue Mountains for a day trip or, if you’re feeling like a real escape, a weekend away.

Your Say

Have you ever spent a day (or more) exploring the Blue Mountains? What are your recommendations?

Sydney

Good Food and Good Beer in Sydney

October 30, 2010 1 Comment

I’m going to venture out on a limb here and guess that there’s going to be more than one entry over the next few months about good food and good booze in Sydney. I’m writing this one slightly buzzed too, so you know it comes from the start.

Chris Walker-Bush’s Day Off

My Thursday started off on the best possible foot as I arrived at work to find all of our terminals off and the place abuzz with casual conversation rather than the sounds of people arguing with customers over nit-picky billing inquiries. I spent the next two hours alternating between reading at my desk, shooting the shit with my co-workers, and surfing the net on my phone – and at 2pm was given the option to take some annual leave time and head home.

It was a gorgeous Sydney day and it seemed a waste to spend it at home, so instead I met up with a friend for some lunch.

Tom N Toms

I first fell in love with this coffee shop while living and working in South Korea. It wasn’t a weekend trip to Mokpo without fresh, hot pretzels and an icy yogurt smoothie.

It was a shock to emerge from Town Hall Station back in January and see a very Korean icon sitting across the road. At first glance it looks like a cheap Starbucks knock-off and I guess, as far as coffee goes, it basically is.

But its freshly made deli style pretzels are the shit. Far better than any cheap piece of cake or stale Danish. Don’t believe me? Just take a look.

Delicious deli pretzel with ham, chicken breast, cheese, and mustard

I’m not a coffee drinker, but I’ve not much praise from coffee drinkers about the beverages on offer. I’ve had their yogurt smoothies (passable) and their oddly named ‘Italian Slush’ (not particularly good), but I only go back for the pretzels. I hear good things about their banana bread too.

If you’re ever down on Bathurst Street (cnr of George) and have a hankering for something a little different to McDonalds or another run of the mill cake, swing by a grab a hot pretzel.

Added bonus? Konglish! A real taste of ‘home’ for an ex Korean inhabitant like myself.

Hotel Sweeney’s

Later that evening it was time for some beer and a bite of dinner. Down near Martin Place doing some guitar shopping, we decided to visit one of Sydney’s better kept secrets – Sweeney’s Hotel.

Like so many of Sydney’s old pubs, Sweeney’s Hotel was something entirely different before it became a bar and restaurant. The multi story bar was once a hotel, and you can see that in its open fireplaces and many small rooms. In a lot of ways it’s like Hart’s Bar as mentioned in my entry Private Sydney.

The beer selection isn’t great on the upper levels (although the house brewed Oscar’s is pretty good), but the Thai restaurant on the second floor serves the best Padang Curry I’ve had the pleasure of eating in Sydney. The boys had similarly glowing reviews of the Pad Thai, which comes in colossal servings with plenty of peanuts on the side. With dishes ranging from $8 entrees to $14-$17 for mains, it’s a pretty good value meal for the part of town it’s in.

The best part about Sweeney’s Hotel? It’s the roof-top bar that gives a stunning view of the skyscrapers and the night sky. With only a few tables and a bar up there, it’s never too crowded. It’s a little out of the way down on Carrington Street, but well worth a little trip out of the way if you’re looking for somewhere a little different to have a few quiet beers.

The Watershed

From one of Sydney’s better kept secrets to the blatantly obvious, but the popular places are popular for a reason. Set on the edge of the beautiful Darling Harbour, the Watershed is a little pricier than my usual watering hole, but it affords a gorgeous view and has a few beers that are worth the extra cash.

And, as an added bonus, Darling Harbour put on a fireworks display for us as we made our way there. That’s the kind of thing I love about this city – and even at 9pm on a Thursday night, the place was packed with people out to see the display and sample food from one of the many restaurants in the area.

Oedenger. A fine drop indeed. Only available in $10 pints

After the sky darkened and the sound died down, it was time to have a few last beers to celebrate pay day. A Little Creatures Bright Ale, James Squire Sundowner, and a fantastic Edenger Weisbier blew capped off a pretty fun night of good beers and good company. I’d thoroughly recommend all through drops, with the Edenger a close second to the Widmer Heff from Portland in the United States on my wheat beers countdown.

The Counter

Friday night and my family had just returned from their six week tour of China and South Korea. You can read about my youngest brother’s adventures over at his blog. He’s only 11 – so be kind!

Our destination was our favourite burger joint in Sydney – an American chain similar to Fudd Rucker’s, but with a lot more variety. As far as I know, the only one in town is in Crow’s Nest – which is a nice short walk from our apartment in St. Leonard’s.

The burgers come in at a relatively heft $15, but you’ve got plenty of options as far as toppings and the like go. I usually opt for a Mexican or Hawaiian style concoction, but felt bad and just had a big greasy beef burger. We ordered up plenty of sides (their sweet potato fries are particularly good) and sampled a new beer, a fruity amber by the name of Stone & Wood. It had a nice passionfruit undertone, and is definitely worth a look if it crosses your path.

There you have it – a quick and dirty one with a few beer and food recommendations. I’ve got a surf camp tomorrow and a Blue Mountain’s Trip on Sunday, so keep your eyes peeled for those.