Dear Korea

Korea is being very stubborn about accepting me back into its loving arms. I’ve shot off close to fifty applications to various hogwans (private schools) of late, and so far have yet to hear anything back. Maybe I’m being impatient, or maybe I’m applying too early for the notoriously disorganized hogwan owners, but it’s getting a tad frustrating.

James was a bundle of energy

So frustrating, in fact, that I’ve bitten the bullet and submitted an application to return to Korea through EPIK. For those not in the know, which I’d assume would be most of my readers, EPIK are the organization that handle the hiring of teachers for Korea’s public school system. I say bitten the bullet like working for a public school is a bad thing, but that’s far from the truth. While it does mean having to work regular 9-5 hours rather than the cushier 1-9pm hours that most private schools offer, it also means much longer holidays (four weeks compared to two weeks), having an employer you know will pay you on time, and having a co-teacher who can (ostensibly) help you control your class if they get a little unruly.

Fallon worked at a public school during her time in Korea and many of my friends still do. Why then, would I be against them? The simple fact is that their application process is ridiculously involved and there’s no guarantee you won’t be placed in a random locale you don’t want unless you apply on day one. Now I, fool that I am, have left it until over a month after applications opened to submit my application – so there’s every chance I’ll end up in a village somewhere out in the more backwater areas of Korea.

Twigim - Best drunk food in the world

Lately I’ve been giving a lot more thought to China. I was offered a role there working for Disney English last week, but turned it down after speaking with one of their employees. While she had great things to say about their classroom set up and the quality of the syllabus, she advised that if I wanted to have free time and to travel, they wouldn’t be the employer for me. Most private schools average around 20-30 work hours a week, but Disney English was asking for 40 while paying only marginally more than the average Chinese employer. It all sounded a little too much for a carefree traveler like myself, and so I turned the role down.

A week on and I’ve just come off another promising phone interview with a prospective Chinese recruiter. The main appeal of teaching in China is obvious – it’s China. The Great Wall, the Forbidden City, close to India and Mongolia etc. etc. There are countless thousands of travel stories just waiting to be written about my time there, and it’s a very tempting prospect. I was lucky enough to spend a week in the southern Chinese province of Hainan in 2008, and while it wasn’t ‘authentic China’ like you see on TV, I definitely came away with an appreciation of the country and its people. Getting a chance to live in China would be fantastic.

Dear China - These are not French Fries

The drawback? The pay. I’m looking at taking home only about $900 Australian a month, and while accommodation is included and the income isn’t taxed, I’d still be earning around $1000 less per month than I would be in South Korea. The cost of living is a little cheaper, it’s true, but that’s still going to make saving up for future adventures difficult. I’m reluctant to give up my drinking budget entirely, you see.

Still, the role would set me up well for future roles in other countries handled by the same recruiter. Their list just happens to include Thailand, which is where I want to study for my CELTA and one of the countries I must see before I give this traveling game up.

 

But for now I will continue to apply for Korea in earnest. In truth, applying in November for February jobs is applying too early. My last two Korean jobs have been a case of applying on the 1st of the month and being there before the end of the same month. As I said, they’re notoriously disorganized in the hogwan game. Ideally I’d like something tied down before I jet off to New Zealand and Fiji so I can plan for it – but at the end of the day, I’m just going to be more likely to touch down on January 15th and begin packing for a job I only applied for on the 14th. That’s just how they roll.

Before I go back to sending out applications and tracking down the documentation necessary to apply to have my degree replaced (long story involving a past Korean employer) – I’ll leave you with this cheerful little ditty. Just be warned: If claymation creeps you out, maybe stay away.

Movie Review: The Social Network

It’s easy to forget that at it’s heart, the movie-making industry is about telling a story. If you’re lucky, it’s a good one. But in these days of big budget special effects, big name casts, and 3-D – it’s easy for the story to get lost in amongst all of the bells and whistles. Sometimes the shiny things cover up a mediocre story (see: Avatar) while in other cases, the big budget effects are there to cover for the fact there’s hardly any store to begin with (see: The Expendables). And sometimes this is ok. We’re not always going to be in the mood for a thought provoking drama or a tear jerking heart-breaker.

But in a year that has been dominated by the buzz word of 3-D, it’s good to see that a good movie can still be made without a multi million dollar budget or a cast of superstars. When you look at The Social Network you’re seeing movie-making at its most basic. There’s a cast of actors, there’s a script, and the two are put together by a talented director to tell a story. Seems simple, right?

The Social Network, for those not in the know, is a semi factual telling of how the phenomenon of Facebook came to exist. From its humble beginnings as The Facebook as it was run from a Harvard dorm room to its status today as one of the most globally influential and well known brands to have ever existed on or off of the World Wide Web. At face value, you might wonder how this story could be interesting. After all, nerds coding a website hardly make for a glamorous or enjoyable movie-going experience.

But the creation of Facebook hasn’t been as smooth as the average user of the site might think. This is a story of betrayal at its most basic level – of how a friendship can be completely and utterly ruined by the simple motivations of greed and jealousy. I won’t say that the story hasn’t been embellished considerably to make it more appealing to the theatre-going public. There’s more beautiful girls and parties that your average website developer sees in a life time, a healthy dose of seemingly off the cuff wit that you know doesn’t exist in real life, and the borderline evil portrayal of Napster designer Sean Parker by Justin Timberlake. It’s safe to say that the design of Facebook wasn’t quite as glamorous as David Fincher portrays it, but we can perhaps forgive them a few artistic liberties.

What really makes this story work, beyond a little artistic license and the vision of the man who directed classics such as Se7en and Fight Club, is that the cast has been picked on its merits rather than its marketability. The most well known member of the cast is a musician (Justin Timberlake) showing that he might just be one of the most talented men in Hollywood as he produces a delightfully slimy performance that has you leaving the theatre wishing Napster still existed so you could boycott it. Jesse Eisenberg, who most will recognize from Zombieland and Adventureland, has been compared in the past to Michael Cera – but he shows in this film that he has substantially bigger acting chops than the Arrested Development star. Eisenberg produces a grimly tortured, sardonic, and misanthropic performance that leaves you feeling more than a little bad for the youngest billionaire in the world. Sure, he’s rich beyond his wildest dreams, but he doesn’t exactly cut the figure of a happy-go-lucky playboy.

Soon to be Spiderman, Andrew Garfield plays perhaps the only truly likable character in the movie – which is no doubt due to the fact he was a consultant when the script was written. Garfield’s acting stock is sure to sky rocket with his imminent stint in the red suit, but he showcases his considerable talents as the unfortunate victim on Facebook’s road from start up company to global icon. Armie Hammer also does a brilliant job playing not one, but two college jocks who Zuckerberg may or may not have defrauded on the way to making his billions.

It’s a simple set of ingredients really. A talented director, a cast of talented actors, and a script that tells a story without getting too bogged down in the trivialities of the truth. In a movie that is ostensibly about website developers and a court case over who gets the credit for creating Facebook – you never once glance at your watch or wonder when the next shot of a pretty girl will pop up on your screen. You’re sucked in by Eisenberg’s detached brilliance, Garfield’s slow realization that he is being forced out of the company he helped build, and Timberlake’s predatory arrogance as he plays the villain of the whole piece.

With its sympathetic portrayl of Zuckerberg, it’s hard to believe that he sought to distance himself from the film. If what we’re shown is to be believed, Zuckerberg is the classic example of how money can’t buy happiness. From the very opening scene, in which a young Zuckerberg (Eisenberg) is dumped after accidentally insulting his girlfriend while ranting about wanting to be in a finals club, it’s clear that he is a man who wants so desperately to belong that he loathes the things he cannot belong to. He wants the beautiful girlfriend and the love of his peers, but since he’s too socially awkward to earn it, he instead hates the things he aspires to be.

Anybody who has ever been outside of the winner’s circle can perhaps relate to this feeling – that contradiction of wanting something and hating it because you can’t have it. And it’s this sympathetic portrayal that makes the movie so accessible. You spend the movie trying to decide whether you want Zuckerberg to triumph over the people trying to take his billions or whether you want Saverin to get the money he deserved.

And that is good story telling. We may never know the whole truth of the sordid conception of Facebook – but Fincher and his cast have given us the option of making up our minds for ourselves. Is Zuckerberg a misunderstood billionaire who just needs a hug or is he a self obsessed misanthrope? Regardless of which way you lean, you’ll come out of the movie wondering how many other foundation stories are as interesting as that of Facebook. More than that, you’ll come out wondering how a movie of two hours managed to hold your attention without a single explosion or recognizable actor.

Good story-telling.

Newcastle’s Unfulfilled Potential

Amazing beaches? Check
Rich local history? Check
Beautiful harbour? Check
Nearby winery region? Check
Beautiful lake district? Check
Tourists? Strangely absent

I haven’t been able to do much traveling of late, which has been a welcome change after several weeks of being busier on the weekends than I am during the week. And, aside from a few excursions here in Sydney, there’s not much in the way of exciting travel on the horizon until we fly out to New Zealand on December 17th.

But in my browsing of the Lonely Planet website I noticed that a former stomping ground of mine has recently been included on their Top 10 Cities of 2011 count-down.

Nobby's Head. Photo by Fallon Fehringer

Anybody who has had the pleasure of living in or visiting Newcastle is well aware of its charms. It’s got a harbour district that, while not quite as awe inspiring as Sydney Harbour, is nothing to be sneezed at. There are a swathe of beaches that put Bondi to shame; the nearby Hunter Valley wine region; nearby coastal towns that offer distinct charms; plenty of hiking opportunities in reserves such as Blackbutt; a rich history as Australia’s second oldest city; and a developing local food and arts industry.

Why then, do more people not include Newcastle on their itineraries when it comes to paying a visit to Australia?

Most tours of Australia hit the big spots such as Melbourne, Sydney, and Perth, and they also tend to include must see backpacker destinations such as Alice Springs, Darwin, and places like Cairns and the Gold Coast for obvious reasons.

But despite all of its immense potential, it’s not common to meet a traveler who has been to or intends to go to Newcastle.

The reason is simple. Despite all of its immense natural and cultural wealth – the area just doesn’t make the required effort to bring in tourists and, sadly, the baby boomer majority in the area seem to be happy to still be Australia’s best kept secret after fifty years of it.

It’s a terrible shame, because the city so desperately needs a new source of income. For so long the region lived and died by the coal mining industry, and while it still plays a significant part in the region’s industry, the operation has scaled back significantly over the years. The city boasts one of the highest unemployment rates in Australia and it’s mostly because there is absolutely nothing for skilled professionals to do if they don’t want to become a boiler maker or laborer. For all of the fancy development on Honeysuckle and the new malls being built in Charlestown and Kotara – the simple fact remains that people don’t go to Newcastle to holiday unless they’ve got family in the area.

The sun sets over Lake Macquarie, Australia's largest salt water lake

 

In my time living in Newcastle, I co-founded the Knights Crusade – who are the Newcastle Knights’ unofficial supporter’s group and continues to grow long after my involvement ceased. What does that have to do with travel in Newcastle? Well, the plight of the team is something we all had to endure over the years, and it seems a big part of the club’s issues with luring players to the area is that nobody wants to live in Newcastle. For young football players with plenty of disposable income and free time, there’s just not a lot to do on the weekends. The city boasts one of the weakest night scenes I’ve had the dubious pleasure of participating in, and I’m including my years living and studying in the town of Armidale in northern NSW. The fact a university town of some 25,000 boasts a comparable night life is a pretty sad indictment of Newcastle’s pub and club scene.

To a lot of travelers, the city’s night life doesn’t make a lick of difference – but in a country that draws more and more backpackers every year, it’s a crying shame that Newcastle is barely a blip on the radar. Pay a visit to Cairns and you’ll find a city that makes a healthy living off of cashed up Europeans and North Americans on a break from study. Newcastle might not have the draw card of the Great Barrier Reef, but it does have a pretty solid foundation to work from.

Anybody who has been walked the Bather’s Way or spent a day out on beautiful Lake Macquarie knows that there is a lot to love about the area, but why don’t tourists know that? Why aren’t tanned and scantily clad Swedish girls making Newcastle a priority stop so they can lay out on Nobby’s Beach or swim the crystal green waters of One Mile Beach? With so many people making a beeline to the Barossa Valley region to sample Australia’s wine-making culture, why don’t more include the Hunter’s own slice of paradise? Why can’t Newcastle, Australia’s seventh biggest city, have a thriving shopping scene to give NSW travelers an alternative to Sydney?

What can be done about it? I’m not the one to say. But having lived there for a decent portion of my life and seen first hand how much potential the city is failing to capitalize on, I’d love to see something done. You’ve got all of the building blocks in the city to be the city to visit in Australia, but nothing seems to be being done.

Newcastle is a city suffering from small town syndrome and it’s baby boomer population isn’t going to be around forever to put money into the region.

Businesses need to be lured to the area to attract the youth, a night life district needs to be established because nobody wants to have to take 15-20 minute cab rides between the city’s few happening spots, the city’s crumbling downtown area needs to be made into a glitzy tourist friendly district rather than a collection of crumbling buildings, out of place storefronts, and unsightly rail land. It’s a case of ‘If you build it, they will come’.

As it stands, I fear anybody following Lonely Planet’s advice and swinging off the Pacific Highway is going to be sorely disappointed.

Waves crash over the crumbling walls of the historic Soldiers Baths by Nobby's Beach.
Fallon gets up close and personal with a koala at Blackbutt Reserve
A couple ties the knot at the Newcastle Baths
The picturesque Newcastle Harbour. Photo by Susan Rowley
King Edward Park. Photo by Susan Rowley

Photo of the Week: Hayden Lake

The diving board on Fallon's family's dock on Hayden Lake.

Visiting Fallon’s family in Coeur D’Alene last year, we took a day trip up to Hayden Lake to spend the day floating around in tubes and diving into the water. It had lost most of its summer warmth, but it was still a lovely day.

This photo just reminds me of something Stephen King might write about.

An Ode to My Favourite Travel Companion

A good travel companion can turn a mediocre holiday into an unforgettable one. They’ll be the ones coaxing you out of bed the morning after a huge piss-up while it’s still dark outside, and they’ll be the ones suggesting a bar or cafe they’d read about.

A good travel buddy will make a long train journey something enjoyable, and ensure that no matter how boring the museum or how crowded the temple – you’ll have somebody there to suffer with you.

Since March of 2009, I have been blessed with the best travel companion I could ever have hoped for. Fallon has not only been my girlfriend and (clichéd as it might sound) best friend – she’s also been the person who has kept the travel bug alive and well in me, even when I’ve been back in a country I grew up in.

In January, after one last hurrah in New Zealand and Fiji, Fallon and I will go our separate ways. There’ll be tears and for a long while it’ll hurt a hell of a lot – but if I’ve learned one thing above all others from my time with Fallon, it’s that it is possible for something great to come to an end and to still appreciate all that it meant to you and all that you learned from it.

So rather than indulge in a long winded and emotionally charged post about why I’ll be sad that it has to come to an end – I’m just going to post some of my favourite pictures of our many adventures together. Because at the end of the day nothing lasts forever – but memories of good times go damned close.

Thanks for showing me the world and sharing my adventures with me Fallon, and I’m glad we’ve got a few more in store before we both go on adventures of our own.

Standing at the Grand Canyon. October 2009
Being silly in the Royal Botanical Gardens. January 2010.
Fallon manning up at the Standing Stones in my hometown. March 2010
Sharing a kiss at the Mud Festival. July 2009.
Savouring the little things. Delivery McDonalds in Jeju. August 2009.
I survived the 19km Route of the Hiawatha. September 2009.

One of the things I’ve learned from Fallon, and I think we all learn from a good travel companion, is that sometimes you need to step outside of your comfort zone and try something new. The above picture, taken after the hardest ride of my life, was one of many ‘firsts’ that I let myself be talked into.

A good companion helps you make new friends
Scuba diving the Great Barrier Reef. September 2010.
Fresh off completing the 14km City 2 Surf. August 2010.
Sharing a kiss in Vegas. October 2009.

A good travel companion takes you to places you might not ever have thought of going. I’ve been lucky enough to visit Las Vegas and the Grand Canyon with Fallon, but I’ve also gone off the beaten track. I’ve toured Portland and explored Kuranda. I’ve spent a weekend on rainy Bigeumdo and taken a two month long Spanish course for the hell of it.

A good travel companion goes above and beyond. They fetch you a bucket when you’re sick, spot you a few dollars when you’re short for lunch, and let you know when you’re being lazy or just being a little bit of an ass. They push you to explore something beyond your own bedroom or hotel room, and when it’s time to part ways – they leave you better for your time together.

When we go our separate ways I won’t slump back into being the lazy layabout I was a few years ago. Quite the contrary. I have a thirst for travel now that I’ve never known before, and I don’t intend to stop until I’m too old and tired to enjoy it anymore.

So thank you Fallon. Thank you for the wonderful adventures we’ve had to this point and for the exciting ones we’ve yet to have.

And when it’s time that we travel our own paths and have adventures without one another, I hope all of yours are every bit as exciting and fascinating as the ones we’ve had together.

Thank you for being you and helping me to be the person I am today.

But most of all, and I know it’s clichéd, thanks for a lifetime of memories and a friendship I know I’ll have long after we say our goodbyes in Fiji next year.

Cheesiness at the May 18 Memorial Park. July 2009.
All dressed up in 80s style. June 2009.
Posing at Walnut Creek Canyon. October 2009.
Holding hands at Seaside. October 2009.
The night I met a girl called Fallon and had absolutely no idea how important she would be. January 2009.
My favourite photo of us. Jejudo. August 2009.
Drunk and in love. April 2009.