Australia, Countdowns, Sydney

8 Things to do in Sydney in Summer

 8 Comments

The cold has well and truly set in here in China. I sit here huddled over my desk wearing socks, gloves, and two sweaters with the heat set to high and I last felt my feet about fifteen minutes before I logged in and started typing.

To say that my trip to Hainan in ten days can’t come fast enough would be an understatement, and the warm beaches of Thailand and the Philippines (our likely Chinese New Year destination) are but shimmering mirages in the distance.

As if the cold, the distance from our families, and lack of western food weren’t bad enough during the festival season; I also have to watch on in envy as my Facebook feed fills up with images of beach days, barbeques, and other summer shenanigans. Each photo of a sun soaked Opera House is a stab to my heart. Every close up of a slightly melted ice cream or a beer so cold it’s got condensation on the can makes me feel all the farther from home.

Hanging out at Freshwater Beach
Hanging out with friends overlooking Freshwater Beach in 2010.

Maybe the sane thing to do would be to log off Facebook and stop torturing myself, but I’ve decided to go the other route. I’m going to list the eight things to do in Sydney in summer that I’d love to be doing right about now. Whether you’re studying English in Australia or a lifelong resident – be warned: if you get out and do all seven yourself, I’ll be very jealous. If you send me photos, you’ll be dead to me.

Don’t say I didn’t warn you…

8 Things to do in Sydney in Summer

#8 – Take a ferry ride

Whether you’re headed to the northern beaches, Luna Park, or just want to feel the wind in your hair as you cross one of the world’s most beautiful harbours – a ferry ride on Sydney Harbour is a wonderful (and fairly cheap) way to get around the city while feeling the sun on your skin and smelling the salty sea air.

Leaving from Circular Quay all day, the ferry service is the best way to get to Sydney icons such as Manly Beach, Taronga Zoo, and Luna Park, but also to less known (but no less idyllic) spots like Cockatoo Island, Balmain, and even as far inland as Parramatta in Sydney’s west.

Sydney Opera House
The Sydney to Manly ferry affords a brilliant view of the Opera House (although this photo is taken from the Harbour Bridge >_>)

Some of my favourite trips in Sydney have started and ended with a ferry ride – seeing the vast Pacific ocean out through the headland en route to Manly Beach is a sight to behold, but seeing the glittering skyline with the sun setting behind it as you return slightly sun-burned, a wee bit tipsy, and feeling more alive than you felt going out is a feeling you need to experience once before you die.

#7 – See some live sport

The ‘big codes’ such as rugby and Aussie rules might have called it a year, but there’s always some sports action to be found in Sydney. The city boasts two football (soccer) teams – Sydney FC and West Sydney Wanderers, and while the league is a few steps (okay, miles) behind the Premier League – there are still household names such as Alessandro del Piero and Emile Heskey plying their trade in the land downunder in addition to a host of exciting young players.

If the round ball game isn’t your thing, cricket season is in full swing over summer – with touring national sides, the Big Bash League, and the domestic competition all options. There are few things more Aussie than a day at the cricket in the stinking hot with some zinc pasted across your laughing gear (not up on Aussie slang? I can help with that).

Sydney Kings lion
The Sydney Kings lion is part of a remarkably good atmosphere at the Kingdome.

There’s also basketball in the form of the Sydney Kings, who I’ve been lucky enough to have a few beers with in the past. The NBL isn’t a patch on America’s NBA, but the atmosphere is electric and the end to end action is still enough to get your pulse going. You can read all about my night at the NBL right here on the site.

If seeing it in the flesh isn’t your thought, head to an RSL (Retired Serviceman’s League) or Leagues Club and watch the game on TV over a pub lunch and a few ice cold bevvies (beer is the liquid of choice with most Aussies). Strike up a chat with a local and you’ll be set.

#6 – Go on a pub crawl

Sydney (sadly) doesn’t boast the microbrewing culture that makes cities such as Boulder or Portland the legendary places that they are, but there are no shortage of characterful watering holes in Sydney. And while the prices are likely to put a serious dent in your wallet, an Aussie pub crawl is something to be experienced.

I’ve prattled on incessantly about my personal favourite being the cozy Hart’s Pub in The Rocks, but I’ll give it another nod here. Good Aussie microbrew from local brewers, fantastic food, and a comfortable and quiet atmosphere that is conducive to a few good yarns while imbibing.

A frosty beer from Hart's Pub, Sydney
A frosty beer from Hart’s Pub, Sydney

Around the corner are other top pubs such as the Australian Hotel (try the pizza), the Hero of Waterloo, the Lord Nelson (good microbrew and English style food), and the German themed Lowenbrau.

Head down to Darling Harbour and you’ve got the likes of the Watershed, the slightly pretentious Cargo Bar, the Pumphouse (selling imported microbrew), and the laid back Harborview with (you guessed it) a stellar view of the Harbour Bridge. If you’re in Circular Quay, you can’t go past the somewhat pricey Opera Bar for unparalleled views of the Opera House and Harbour Bridge, but there’s also the Slip Inn nearby.

opera bar, Sydney
The view from the Opera Bar is one of the best in Sydney. The food ‘ain’t bad either!

Of course, you can find good pubs away from the main part of the city. Surry Hills has a selection of fantastic gastro pubs (especially The Norfolk, in my opinion), King Street in Newtown is practically littered with great bars and live music venues, and any suburb is bound to have more than a bar or two to keep you and your mates occupied as you stumble your way to an unforgettable night.

But…uh… drink responsibly, you rapscallion!

#5 – Get into the festive spirit

Christmas is a magical time in the harbour city, and there you can’t look past Carols in the Domain when it comes to celebrating Christmas in Sydney with a few thousand of your closest friends.

Opening Christmas presents
Me? I’m happy with a Christmas with my family. Here, my nephew celebrates his very first Christmas.

While I’ve never been lucky enough to attend the event, I grew up watching the telecast from my family living room and the spirit and community of the event reached through the screen and grabbed me. With a mix of Aussie ‘celebrities’ and occasional bigger name international stars such as Josh Groban and ‘The Hoff’, the event is part concert and part audience participation caroling event.

The event is insanely popular though, so if you’re wanting to go along – get to Sydney’s Domain (near the Opera House/Botanical Gardens) early to claim your patch of grass. A night of caroling in the warm summer air underneath the starry sky should get you in the festive spirit quick-smart.

#4 – Learn a water sport

While I’ll touch on the beach situation later in the count-down, a moment has to be spent highlighting the many other ways to get wet in Sydney. Whether you’re a scuba diver wanting to chase down a Wobbygong at Shelly Beach, a stand up paddle boarder looking to spend some time atop the Harbour, or a budding surfer wanting to ride the waves at Bondi, Bronte, or Dee Why – there’s an outlet for every aquatic desire.

I myself had the opportunity to take surfing lessons in Sydney a few years ago, and I’ve had friends rave about their Sydney Scenic SUP experience. There aren’t any pristine reefs to be found off Sydney, but there’s still plenty to be seen beneath the waves for scuba and snorkeling enthusiasts.

Post surf lesson at Sydney's Dee Why Beach
Post surf lesson at Sydney’s Dee Why Beach

If the deep blue sea is a bit much for you, Sydney will soon act as home to the largest water park in the southern hemisphere. Wet & Wild Sydney isn’t due to open until December 2013, but it looks pretty damn impressive. White water rafting enthusiasts can capitalize on the Sydney Olympics’ left overs by heading out to the Penrith Whitewater Stadium, and there’s no shortage of waterways for avid canoers or kayakers to explore. Which leads me to…

#3 – Explore a national park

…national parks. Sydney is surrounded on all sides (well, aside from the ocean) by some pristine Aussie wilderness. There are those who will swear by bush-walking in the northern national parks such as Kurang-gai; while you can’t really look past the stunning views and dizzying heights of the world famous Blue Mountains National Park.

My personal pick goes to the Royal National Park in the city’s south, where I was lucky enough to go kayaking a few years ago. You’d be hard pressed finding a place further removed from the hustle and bustle of the nearby city, and after an hour or so paddling out on the water you can snatch some real alone time on an isolated beach or island for a picnic lunch.

Kayaking in Bundeena
Kayaking in Bundeena in 2010. You wouldn’t believe it was winter!

You might be within cooee of Australia’s largest city, but it’s easy to get lost (figuratively and literally, unfortunately) in the national parks that surround the city.

#2 – Spend some time on the beach

The only thing shocking about this one appearing on the list is that it’s not #1, but we’ll get to that in a second. If Sydney is most famous for the Opera House/Harbour Bridge combination, it’s safe to say that its beaches come in a close second. From the perennial crowd pleasers (Bondi and Manly) to the rising contenders (Maroubra, Coogee, Dee Why), to the hidden gems (Little Manly and Freshwater) – there’s an embarrassment of wealth when it comes to beautiful beaches to sun on, swim in, or just hang out at.

Shelly Beach, Sydney
Shelly Beach in Sydney boasts great scuba diving and snorkeling, as well as being a mean BBQ location.

You can’t really go wrong with any of them, but do your research before heading out. While some beaches cater to crowds with their cafes and top facilities, others are more of a BYO experience – but you’ll get more space to yourself in exchange for the luxuries you give up.

I can’t stress enough the importance of sunscreen, though. The Australian sun is an unforgiving bitch and if you haven’t felt it before, you don’t know what you’re in for. It puts the northern hemisphere sun to shame – and you can thank that little hole in the ozone layer for the blistering if you do forget to cover up.

And don’t worry about sharks – they’re misunderstood. It’s the blue ring octopuses, box jellyfish, bluebottles, and drop bears you need to be worried about.

#1 – Have a backyard BBQ

Ah, the humble backyard barbie. I honestly can’t think of something I’d rather be doing right now. There’s something so Aussie (and so fucking relaxing) about standing over the barbie with an ice cold beer and listening to the sizzle and pop of sausages and steaks cooking.

With cicadas and crickets singing, a few salads already on the table, and the cricket bat and tennis ball ready for backyard cricket – the backyard barbie is a dinky-di Aussie tradition that you’ll kick yourself if you don’t get to experience in your lifetime.

BBQ Wench
My friend Belle plays BBQ wench at my birthday BBQ in 2010.

Barbecued potato chips, crystalised onion, corn dip, fresh prawns, coleslaw, potato salad, curried corn, and a freshly made pavlova round out a filling meal – but don’t worry about your waistline. The backyard cricket or touch footy ought to burn off a few calories.

God, I can almost smell the fresh cut grass and taste the slightly burned snags now. Kill me.

Your Say

I’ve shared my favourite eight things to do in Sydney in summer, but what are yours? Are there any glaring omissions in my list or have I hit the nail on the head?

How will you be spending your summer? Or if you’re unlucky enough to be north of the equator, what will you be doing to keep warm?

Depression, Musings

A Letter from December 7th, 2011

 12 Comments

A Letter from the Past

I don’t recall the specifics of it, but I guess I was bored at work sometime last December and stumbled across an intriguing little site by the name of FutureMe. Much like the time capsules I’m sure some of us had to bury as part of a school project in our youth, this site lets us put something away for a time so that we can rediscover it sometime in the future.

In this case, ‘the future’ was exactly 365 days from when I typed the letter at my cubicle in downtown Sydney. And if the post I would write about my battle with depression around a month later isn’t an indication of just what a low point in my life this was – reading this letter a year on certainly puts it into perspective.

Sitting in a crowded Paulaner Brewhaus in Nanjing surrounded by Filipino singers and beside my beautiful girlfriend, it was gratifying to not only read the letter from a much more exotic locale than Castlereagh Street, Sydney; but also to read it from a much better place emotionally.

Making new friends at Paulaner Brewhaus in Nanjing
Making new friends at Paulaner Brewhaus in Nanjing. One year on from writing the letter to my future self.

2012 has been a remarkably good year for me. It might not have reached the dizzying heights (and occasional lows, I must remember) of my time in South Korea in 2008-09, but it’s been a year I sorely needed after the crushing lows of 2011. Here’s hoping the letter I write this year will find 2013 Chris even better placed to achieve his dreams.

The Letter

I thought it would be fun to paste the letter below and comment on which parts of it came true or did not. You’ll find the letter in quotation and my responses in the standard text.

Dear FutureMe,

Hopefully by the time you’re reading this, you’ve found some sense of happiness and contentment in your life.

Whether you’re off exploring some new country (Japan or China?) or you’ve found something in Australia that gives you a greater sense of purpose, I hope you’ve found contentment.

I am so pleased to say that I did get to read this letter from a place of far greater happiness than where I was when I wrote it. My life in China isn’t perfect and there are definitely improvements that could be made, but the days in which I wake up smiling and go to bed smiling far outnumber the days that I don’t.

I’ve spent a good portion of the year (from March 26th until present) exploring China, although perhaps not as often as I should have. To date, Xinjiang remains my only really adventurous jaunt outside of my comfort zone. Although there have been fun weekend trips to Shanghai, Lianyungang, and Changzhou along the way.

If you’re not dating some gorgeous model or a girl who makes you deliriously happy, I hope you’ve at least managed some casual sex over the past twelve months. Aussie girls can’t all be that difficult.

Funny thing: Australian girls are that difficult. At least for me. To date I’ve slept with a single Australian woman – putting my country of birth in such illustrious company as South Africa and New Zealand when it comes to landing a little somethin’ somethin’.

But I did manage to find a pretty damned hot girl. Hell, I convinced her to move to China. Score one for me, eh?

Posing on Sanibel Island in Florida
Posing on Sanibel Island in Florida

How did Aussie on the Road turn out? Did you make bank on it? Did you have a good time in Fiji with the boys?

Fiji never did eventuate, which meant all four of us pissed $300 up against the wall when we ambitiously booked our five nights accommodation at Mango Bay on the Coral Coast. Our dreams of recreating the early days and debauchery of 2011 were dashed by the real world: the cost of flying from China to Fiji and the difficulty we all had in getting time off work to make it happen.

Boys in Fiji
I missed the chance to catch up with Grant again in Fiji, but did see him at a wedding in Chicago.

But part one of that statement has definitely come true. Aussie on the Road has had a watermark year – at one point bringing in over $2000 in a single month. That lofty record hasn’t really been threatened since, but I’m still lucky enough to bring in semi-regular income from the site to supplement my fast paced life of video games, sleeping in, and other such excitement.

More than anything, I hope that as you read this you can remember how dissatisfied with things you were a year ago and how much better off things are now. I hope you’re looking better, writing more prolifically, and smiling more often.

I can’t really recall just how low I must have felt when writing this last year. One of the funny things about depression is that – when times are good – you tend to forget just how awful you felt most of the time. I have vague memories of calling in sick from work a lot and sleeping most of my weekends away, but cannot call up those feelings of isolation and dread that prompted my withdrawal from the world. That’s probably a good thing.

And while I might not look better (my weight never really recovered from five weeks of gluttony in the US), I’m definitely smiling a lot more often and writing as prolifically as I had been last year. 2012 has been pretty good to me.

And I hope you’re doing it on the back of a Knights/Jets double

Well, fuck. Neither of those things happened.

Looking Back

A year isn’t a lot of time in the grander scheme of our lives, but how much things can change really amazes me. If you’d told the Chris who wrote that letter that he’d:

  • Be living in China
  • Dating a gorgeous girl he had been chatting online with at the time
  • Making money from his website
  • Have traveled to the United States for a second time
  • Be a lead role in a Chinese sitcom
  • Feature in a Men of Travel Blogging Calendar

He’d have shaken his head and laughed at you.

Xinjiang restaurant, Kashgar
Making new friends while visiting Kashgar/Kashi in Xinjiang, China

As I wrote that letter in late 2011, my most ambitious plan was to return to school and hopefully get a promotion at work. Fiji was my loftiest travel goal and the most romance I had in my life was thirty seconds of drunken making out with a co-worker in the photo booth at a work Christmas party.

How things change.

I can’t help but wonder what I’ll be doing when I read the next letter.

Your Say

If you could write a letter to yourself and post it into the future, what kind of things would you say? Rather than just share it here, why not head over to FutureMe and do it for yourself? I certainly got a kick out of it.

 

Featured, Life on the Road

Getting (Almost) Naked for Charity: The Travel Blogging Calendar

 11 Comments

Humble Beginnings

It was late in 2011 and I was sitting at my cubicle in iiNet’s Sydney office. While I can’t lie and say that working in a call center for Australia’s #2 internet provider was anything less than the best job I’ve ever had – it did have its drawbacks. Namely: long days spent in front of two computer screens with problems so repetitive that I could resolve them without clicking away from my Facebook page.

And while my former employers probably wouldn’t be overjoyed to read it, I did manage to get a hell of a lot of blogging done during my eight hour shifts. All of this while chatting with some fascinating people from around the world and helping them to get back online as quickly as humanly possible.

What kind of net addict would I be if I didn’t feel their plight?

It was during one of these unremarkable days at work that I compiled a mildly controversial Top 15 Travel Blogging Crushes list. While trolling the internet for photos of my favourite female travel bloggers looking sexy, I started to think to myself:

God, there are some gorgeous travel bloggers out there.

Crazy Sexy Fun Traveler
Alexandra from Crazy Sexy Fun Traveler came in at #4 on the Travel Blogging Crushes list that inspired the whole project.

A thought which, of course, lead to me then wondering how a calendar full of these gorgeous girls would look. I’m creepy like that. But what started as slightly creepy fantasy soon became a far more benevolent idea – why not arrange a calendar and donate the proceeds to charity? A Travel Blogging Calendar.

A Hitch

The hard part of pitching a calendar to pretty girls is that they’re inherently just a little hesitant when a bearded, slightly paunchy Australian man approaches them claiming he’ll only use their photos for good. We’ve all seen enough TV shows to know the cliche of a dodgy ‘photographer’ luring girls into his ‘studio’ to take a few ‘artistic’ shots.

Two hot humans
Heather (Nomadic American) and I on the beach in Miami. Hot by association.

And everything is approximately 67% dodgier when it comes from halfway around the world via Facebook message. That said, Alexandra of Crazy Sexy Fun Traveler was very fast to get on board. But the ‘crazy’ part is something she’s always been proud to advertise.

The solution? Put my money where my mouth is! If I’m expecting these girls to strip down and pose, the least I can do is bare my own hairy chest for the cause.

I put the call out via various Facebook groups and over Twitter, and found I was inundated with willing participants. And not just pretty girls, either! There were plenty of handsome sons of bitches eager to strip down to their all together for a good cause, although I daresay a few of them were only too eager to do it before they’d even heard the word ‘charity’. We are all travel bloggers, and there’s just a hint of exhibitionism in this life we choose to lead.

And so the Travel Blogging Calendar was born.

Helping Hands

While I can proudly say that this project is my brain child, I cannot even begin to take credit for carrying it to term. It’s taken all twenty four participants, as well as a small army of well wishers who have done their part through advertising the project, interviewing its participants, or putting us in touch with people could help.

Jeremy of TravelFREAK has been a leading light. From setting up our beautiful website to editing the photos to putting together a press release, Jeremy has been the tireless workhorse I’ve been able to stand behind looking pretty while he wiped sweat from his well defined brow.

Then there’s been the tireless promotion done by all involved; the donated time from photographers; the promotion from the various charities who had been in the running to be the project’s beneficiaries; the broader travel blogging community; and the wonderful people at uPrinting who have so generously offered to provide all 500 calendars completely free of charge. That has meant that almost all of the proceeds (save the cost of postage) will go directly to our two deserving charities – Mitrata Nepal and VSO Bahaginan.

Many hands make light work, and that’s exactly how this project has felt. Everybody involved has done far more than simply strip down and give the camera a sultry pout. They’ve written posts, approached media outlets, harassed friends, re-taken photos, and chased last minute replacements.

It’s been a fantastic community project that has highlighted, for me, why this is such a wonderful community to be a part of. Any headaches we’ve had getting it organized will all be worth it when we’re able to know that our efforts have gone towards helping two wonderful charities.

All we need from you…

…is to buy a few calendars! Buy them because you want to see Alexandra or Jess Jones in a bikini or because you want to see Laurence of Finding the Universe or Jeremy looking all kinds of fine. Buy them to support your favorite blogger or because the idea of seeing Raymond from Man on the Lam on the toilet does it for you.

finding the universe
One from the cutting room floor from Laurence

But most importantly, buy it to help us make a huge difference to two very deserving charities. Whether or not you ever even look at the pictures inside (and I do hope you do) – buy these calendars because these are two causes that could use every cent they could get.

It’s Christmas and these calendars will make great gifts, but more importantly – you’ll be giving the gift of hope to those who benefit from the good work of Mitrata Nepal and VSO Bahaginan.

My Photo

What picture did I go with? I strained my brain trying to think of creative ways to make use of my base of operations here in China, but I just couldn’t think of a good place to shoot in Nanjing. My visits to Changzhou and Shanghai likewise failed to produce anything useful.

Of course, there were a few choice photos from my past that came to mind…

Super, super gay photo
An early candidate – embarrassing myself (and Australia) in Seoul, 2011.
Pondering the meaning of life by Lake Karakul in Xinjiang, China
Pondering the meaning of life (and funny hats) by Lake Karakul in Xinjiang, China
Fijian drag queen
Baring my chest for free at a New Year’s party in Fiji in 2010.
Craziness on a carousel at California Adventure
Craziness on a carousel at California Adventure

As you can see, I’m a sexy mother-fucker with countless options when it comes to suitably salacious calendar shots. But none of the above felt right. And I couldn’t think of something to do locally, either. Of course, after seeing the below photo – I feel like maybe I missed the boat when it comes to Nanjing.

In the end I opted for a shot from my recent US trip. A photo taken by my talented girlfriend in Yosemite seemed a fitting choice. Who knows? If the project does well this year, I might get down to the buff in 2014. No promises.

Purple Mountain in Nanjing
My friend David didn’t have any such trouble shooting a memorable shot in Nanjing. Should have enlisted him… Photo by David Magro.

Sneak Preview

Oh, but how could I forget to give you a little sneak peak of what your $25 will buy you? Whether you buy the Men of Travel Blogging Calendar or buy the Women of Travel Blogging calendar, you’re going to be getting twelve months of gorgeous backdrops, interesting people, and potentially more than you ever wanted to see of some of the travel blogging community.

Bon appetit!

Men of Travel Blogging Calendar
A sneak peak at the next twelve months if you buy the Men of Travel Blogging calendar.
Women of Travel Blogging
…and the (infinitely more appealing) Women of Travel Blogging Calendar

Buy the Travel Blogging Calendar

Want to buy a calendar (or five)? Head on over to the Travel Blogging Calendar website and you can pre-order now.

Asia, China, Featured, Lianyungang

Monkey Magic in Lianyungang

 7 Comments

If you were a young boy growing up in Australia during the 80s and early 90s, you have probably seen an episode or two of Monkey  in your time. With sexually crazed Pigsy, cannibalistic Sandy, and the irreverant actions of the Monkey King himself – Monkey was hugely popular in Australia, the UK, and Japan.

Lianyungang’s HuaGuoShan (Mountain of Flowers and Fruit) is a popular tourist destination due to it purportedly being the birth-place of the legendary Monkey King, so it made sense that a child of the 80s such as myself would be drawn there when I was sent to teach in Lianyungang earlier this year.

Two Trips

I’ve actually been to the home of the Monkey King twice  now. Once while living in Lianyungang when a student from Nanjing took me to see the sights and a second time more recently when I took my girlfriend back up to my former stomping grounds to give her a break from the hustle and bustle of Nanjing. The photos and stories below will be a mish-mash of happenings from both trips.

About Lianyungang

Located on the north-eastern coast of China’s Jiangsu province, Lianyungang isn’t a city at the head of many ‘to do’ lists in China. It’d be hard pressed to rate a mention even on a to do list in crowded and popular Jiangsu. Reachable by long distance train (10+ hours to Nanjing or Shanghai) or by bus (4-5 hours to Nanjing or Shanghai), Lianyungang is an industrial city typical of modern China. That is to say that old China is being forced aside as skyscrapers and modern conveniences flood in.

There are certainly reasons to visit Lianyungang beyond the mountain; it does boast some passable stretches of beach and some finger-licking seafood, but HuaGuoShan is probably the city’s sole real draw for foreign tourists.

Made famous by the classic novel Journey to the West, HuaGuoShan as it appears in the book is a mountain inhabited by demons and monkeys. And while there are a few monkeys to be found in cages along the way, demons were (thankfully) notable in their absence. But the water curtain cave behind which the Monkey King lived can still be found, and it’s to this somewhat manufactured facade that many tourists make their pilgrimage on a daily basis.

The Trek

On both visits to the mountain I was lucky enough to have Chinese company and a private car. The mountain itself is a good 20-30 minutes drive from Haizhou – a fringe suburb itself approximately 15 minutes from the city centre. The drive itself takes you through somewhat picturesque country being bulldozed and built over to make way for apartment blocks and new government buildings.

A large parking area at the bottom of the mountain marks hopping off point, and from there a ten minute walk takes you past a number of stalls selling foods, tacky souvenirs, and comfortable shoes for those who weren’t prepared for the hike ahead.

Visitors have three options when it comes to seeing the mountain’s more famous sights:

  • Opt to either walk up the road to the temple (not recommended. I’d imagine it takes upwards of an hour and you share the road with notoriously bad Chinese drivers).
  • Take a cable car to the very top of the mountain and make your way back down.
  • Pay 8RMB for a shuttle to the temple and climb to the top.

I should note that there is also a fee to enter the park, but string pulling got we pale-faces in for free on both visits.

First time around we took our private car all the way to the temple, but for our second visit we opted for the bus due to having two Chinese families in our company. The bus ride rivaled any amusement park ride I’ve ever been on when it came to heart-stopping action – it takes the sharp turns around sheer cliffs without pause. Add to that cars flying down the road in the opposite direction and you’ve got a pretty hair-raising experience.

The Temple

The first stop on a typical visit to HuaGuo Mountain will be a Buddhist temple that marks the beginning of the ascent towards the mountain peak. This picturesque temple is your gateway to the famous water curtain cave and the highest point in Jiangsu province, but don’t rush by it. Not only is it quite beautiful in its own right, but it’s your last reprieve before you begin a climb that would have to feature at least 1000 rather steep stairs.

A pagoda on HuaGuo Mountain, Lianyungang
A pagoda as the sun sets on a chilly fall afternoon.
Autumn leaves on HuaGuo Shan
Autumn leaves against the backdrop of a pagoda atop HuaGuo Shan.
Sun set behind a pagoda
The sun sets (and the cool settles in) as the afternoon draws to a close.

With its stunning views of the valley below, there’s a sense of tranquility at the temple that I’ve yet to find anywhere else in too-crowded China. Much like Unjusa and Daewonsa in South Korea, the mountain temple has quiet corners where you can get away from the crowds and just soak in the natural majesty of the place.

Monks go about their business, petitioners pause at the various shrines to pay their respects, and that unusual blend of modern society and old traditions can be seen as iPhone touting teenagers suddenly prostrate themselves in front of a towering gold statue. It’s a delightful contrast.

Red ribbons on HuaGuo
Heather snaps a picture of the red ribbons at the temple on HuaGuo Shan. Each ribbon represents a wish or prayer.
A beautiful sunset over Lianyungang
A stunning sunset as we continue to climb the mountain

 

Realm of the Monkey King

Once you’re past the many pagodas and you’ve stepped over the many thresholds of the temple, you’re met with a somewhat grueling climb to get to the famed Water Curtain Cave behind which the Monkey King once lived. It’s not going to exhaust a relatively healthy person, but you’ll certainly feel it in your calves when you finally get to the waterfall.

On both of my visits a man with a trained monkey was in attendance. For 10RMB you can pose for a photo with the adorable (and somewhat mistreated) little monkey. But be careful of her nimble fingers; she made off with Heather’s heart!

Pretty girl and a monkey
Heather gets cuddly with a little monkey on the mountain.
Me and my monkey
Getting acquainted with my rival for Heather’s affections.

With the cheesy tourist photos done, it’s time to step into the cave that (allegedly) acted as home for the Monkey King. Water Curtain Cave seems suspiciously man made throughout – from the false waterfall to the poorly carved ‘furniture’ to the strings of LED lighting that line the walls – but it’s still an experience to emerge (somewhat damp) from beneath the waterfall and step into the cool of the caves beyond.

The famous waterfall behind which the Monkey King lived
The famous Water Curtain Cave behind which the Monkey King lived. You get a wee bit wet going inside.

The Peak

After the slight let down that is the tacky interior of the cave, you’re confronted with two options. Head back to the bus (which we did on my second visit) or continue climbing until you reach the highest point in the province (which I did first time around).

Truth be told, the steep uphill really isn’t worth the view unless it’s clear out. My first visit was on an overcast and misty morning, so I wasn’t afforded the best of views. There are some sad looking deer in a muddy enclosure and allegedly some wild monkeys closer to the top, but they’re nothing you can’t see at your average roadside petting zoo.

Fog on HuaGuo Shan
A foggy autumn morning on HuaGuo Mountain.
Foggy valley
Fog rolls into the valley below as we continue our climb

My first visit did end in rather nice fashion; my student’s father treated us to a traditional Chinese banquet lunch before we made our way back down to the base. Not a bad way to follow up a climb, eh?

Lunch on HuaGuo Mountain with my student.
Lunch on HuaGuo Mountain with my student.

Do it with a local

I was lucky enough to have a local guide for my visit thanks to work connections. Have you ever checked out an off-the-beaten track location with the help of a local? Sites like Arribaa specialize in putting you in touch with local experts who have inside knowledge on the best things to do because they know the place inside out.

They’re unfortunately not in China yet, but check out their site for some fantastic personalized tours organized by locals on the ground in places across Australia and (soon) the world.

The team at Arribaa have even organized a special 15% discount for Aussie on the Road readers who make a booking through them in 2012. Click here for a 15% discount on your next Arribaa experience.

Your Say

Have you ever visited a place because it was in a TV show or movie from your childhood? I know I have; I visited Astoria to immerse myself in a personal Goonies tour back in 2009.

Have you seen Monkey before? Did it not rock your world?

 

 

 

 

Asia, Malaysia

The Best Snorkeling in Malaysia

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This is the last in a series of pieces on Malaysia I put together for Travel Wire Asia. You can see the original (Chinese) article here.

All of this writing and research about Malaysia has certainly rocketed the tiny South East Asian nation up the ladder in my estimation. I daresay it’ll be a candidate for New Year’s 2013…

The Best Snorkeling in Malaysia

Malaysia may be renowned for its scuba diving and the beauty of the country, but even the least confident of swimmers can see and experience so much in Malaysia’s crystal clear waters.

Snorkeling right off the beaches in Malaysia is a popular tourist activity. In the safety of shallow water, anybody can experience it. Photo by http://www.flickr.com/photos/hnix/.

It’s not just in the cities, highlands, and forests of Malaysia that you can be astounded by beauty. There’s a whole world of stunning sights to be found just below the surface of Malaysia’s world renowned warm, clear waters.

While I am a scuba dive fanatic myself, I understand that it’s not for everybody – but rest assured, Malaysia’s waters are open even to those without a PADI certificate or confidence in the water. Snorkeling provides a great, relaxing, and safe way to experience the wonders beneath the waves.

A slightly over-dressed snorkeler enjoying Malaysia’s underwater world. Photo by http://www.flickr.com/photos/moximus/

Brightly colored coral and the kind of fish you might have seen in Finding Nemo make areas like Terenagganu and the Tioman Marine Park offer astounding wildlife experiences just a short wade from the white, sandy beaches. If you want to see a friendly shark or schools of vibrantly colored fish, a spot like Pulau Payar Marine Park in Langkawi is a good option as well.

If seeing some of the ocean’s most beautiful marine life is what you’re after, consider marine parks such as Talang Satang or Similajau, where everything from playful dolphins to sea turtles to sea snakes to sharks can be seen in the deeper waters.

The majestic sea turtle is just one of the beautiful sea creatures you can see while snorkeling in Malaysia. Photo source: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jimshannon/

The beauty of snorkeling in Malaysia is that it is so accessible and the variety is so great. Whether you’re looking to snorkel in waist deep water right off your beach or wanting to venture out to one of the coral reef’s farther off shore, there is no shortage of companies happy to rent you equipment or take you on a tour.

And for those who wish to give scuba diving a try, consider that Malaysia is consistently rated as one of the best places in the world for diving. What better place to learn than in the warm waters of Malaysia where marine life is all around?

Whether you’re a first timer or a seasoned explorer, Malaysia’s waters are literally teaming with eye-opening sights. What better way to escape the warm summer sun than with a dip in the crystal clear water with a few thousand of your closest finned friends?

Your Say

Ever been snorkeling in Malaysia? Got any favourite sites you’d care to share?