China, Countdowns, Hainan, Kashgar, Lianyungang, and 6 more

Musings, Nanjing, Qingdao, Shanghai, Urumqi

My Favourite Memories from China

June 30, 2014 5 Comments

Nostalgia

I was having a typically hardcore, party kind of Friday night; y’know, browsing Facebook and eating bibimbap in my underwear, when I came across an article entitled Everyone Should Live in China At Least Once.

In recent weeks, I’ve perhaps been guilty of translating my excitement for the next chapter in my life into something more akin to a distaste for China. I’ve certainly been guilty of preparing myself for the separation by focusing on the things I don’t like about China, and forgetting the many unforgettable experiences I’ve had as a result of being here.

If Korea is where the Aussie on the Road was born – China is where he came of age. I may never have reached the dizzying heights of the happiness I felt while living in South Korea, but it’s certainly been more up than down.

Driving the Karakorum Highway

My first travel experience in China came just a month after I’d arrived, as my co-worker Kara and I took advantage of the May vacation to go someplace exotic. China’s definitely got no shortage of exotic destinations, but we felt that far-flung Xinjiang in the country’s west was the right place for us.

Eating a traditional Uighur meal in Opal, Xinjiang.

The less said about being underwhelmed by Urumqi the better, but in Kashgar we found a place completely unlike the China we’d come to know in the country’s east. We happened upon a tour company and booked our passage from Kashgar to the Pakistan-China border by way of the Karakorum Highway and beautiful Tashgorkan in the mountains.

What followed was a 48 hour journey through sun scorched and blood red valleys, across a desert where snow fell on the towering dunes, by the icy shores of Lake Karakul, and up into the perennially snow-capped and beautiful mountains that separate Pakistan from China. We stopped off in quaint Opal for local food, watched local dancing at a food festival, and explored the tumbledown ruins of the old Stone Fort in Tashgorkan.

Xinjiang's Burning Hills get their name for obvious reasons. — Xinjiang’s Burning Hills get their name for obvious reasons.

The snow-capped sand dunes flank this dry lake through which we had to drive.

High tech security on the China-Pakistan border.

What makes the trip most memorable, perhaps, was the gut-clenching, head swimming agony of my worst ever bout of food poisoning as we bounced and swerved our way back towards civilization on that second day. Teeth clenched and sweat on my brow, every kilometer was agony.

I won’t describe it all over again here, but feeling near death on the Karakorum Highway is a memory that will stick with me forever.

Exploring Jiuzhaigou

A year later, my ex-girlfriend Heather and I decided to spend the May vacation someplace a little less ‘wild west’ than Xinjiang, and headed to Sichuan province instead.

Our few days in Chengdu included visiting the very crappy Happy Valley Chengdu and a visit to some pandas that I’ll describe later. The highlight of the trip, and perhaps of my time in China, was a visit to the Jiuzhaigou National Park and its contrast of impossibly blue water and vibrant greenery.

The beautiful Five Flower Lake. Look at that colour!

The lake without my ugly mug spoiling the view.

The day long bus ride was every bit as bouncy and unpleasant as the Karakorum Highway, but the pay-off at the end was one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been, and I’m not just talking about China.

My two May holidays both saw me visiting truly beautiful corners of China, but the two couldn’t have been more different in their composition.

A small water wheel turns in the bubbling waters. — An old hut stands by the bubbling waters.

The cold, fresh air reinvigorated the both of us after so much time in Nanjing’s oppressive smog, and there was just so much colour to take in. Jiuzhaigou is said to be at its best in the Fall when the leaves set the trees afire, but there was plenty of beauty to be found in the lush verdancy of the place and the tempting look of its cool and blue waters.

Tiger Lake, so known for the way it reflects the orange leaves during the Fall, is still beautiful in spring.

The picturesque Pearl Shoals are blissfully relaxing to listen to.

Teaching in Rural Jiangsu

I have enjoyed teaching high school graduates preparing to head abroad and study in the United States, Canada, or Australia; but there’s not so much joy in teaching the (often spoiled) kids of privileged families who – regardless of their results – are going to go to school abroad anyway.

My favourite teaching memories from China, as a result, have come in my times away from the city and among people who don’t take English education as their birthright. My month living in Lianyungang and my few days visiting Shuanggou showed me what passion for learning and genuine enthusiasm are – and it’s no surprise that I had to travel to places of considerably less wealth to find it.

Teaching a class of eager young kids in Shuanggou, Jiangsu.

This past month, one of my students from my time in Lianyungang arrived at my school, and I now have the pleasure of teaching her each day. When she arrived, she told me that the entire class still remembered me and spoke of me fondly. With the kids at my Nanjing school so privileged and so busy enjoying the benefits of privilege, I doubt that such claims will be true of my students here when I’m gone.

Christmas in China

I’ve spent two Christmases in China, and while both of them were united in being difficult because I was away from (most of) my family, they’re both similar in the fact that they surprised me in just how wonderful they were.

My first in China, spent on the beaches of Sanya with my ex-girlfriend, was wonderful in that it was so unlike Christmas. It was easy to forget that I was away from my family or that we didn’t have gifts to unwrap, because instead we were sucking down ice cold beers on the beach while, inexplicably, the Easter Bunny strolled up and down the white sand posing for photos. Christmas in Hainan was certainly an experience.

The Easter Bunny on a beach on Christmas Day because China.

While others back home were pulling apart Christmas crackers or tucking into a hearty lunch of cold meat, we were eating meat off the bone at a beach-side Russian restaurant and posing with coconuts. It was a wonderful distraction from Christmas.

Conversely, my second Christmas in China was very much like Christmas at home. With my brother and his girlfriend here to celebrate with, we set about recreating some of the things we loved most about Christmas at home. We used Fields to order a full Christmas dinner (delivered from Shanghai!), unwrapped presents at the crack of dawn, ate our favourite snacks while watching Kiss Kiss Bang Bang, and reveled in the warmth of one another’s company.

Our makeshift Christmas dinner. Not bad!

The Christmas tree decorated and ready for Christmas in China.

The only downside to the day was saying goodbye at its end. We’ve all confessed to being a tad teary eyed as the spell of our day together was broken and we returned to the humdrum of our regular lives.

The Nanjing Rural Sixes

I’ve harped on about cricket in China elsewhere, but our own tournament will always hold a special place in my heart. The very concept of me sipping an ice cold beer, reclining in grass (itself a rarity in Nanjing), and watching a game of cricket played by two teams under the influence might not be so strange – but it’s as far removed from Chinese life as it gets.

All of the day's participants gather around a comatose Samwise Gamgee aka Fat Noel Gallaghar. — All of the day’s participants gather around a comatose Samwise Gamgee aka Fat Noel Gallaghar.

I’ve attended two Rural Sixes (2012 and 2014) and both have been days more about the social aspect than the cricket itself. Oh, I’ve swung the willow and polished a six-stitcher ‘gainst my thigh; but it’s been more about the sledging veiled as commentary, the laughing at those who get falling down drunk, and the well earned night’s sleep when I inevitably collapse into bed exhausted well before my usual bed-time.

I’ve got to admit, watching the Nanjing Nongmin win it in epic fashion back in 2012 was pretty special too; even if I had been relegated to our B team and the ignominy of last place.

Shanghai Weekends

When I visit Shanghai in two weeks, it will be the first time I’ve been there (outside of the airport) since St. Patrick’s Day of 2013; but for a time, Shanghai escapes were the bread and butter of my ex-girlfriend and I maintaining our sanity in China. When the rotation of Taj Mahal Indian, Korean, McDonalds delivery, and pizza became all too much for us – we’d jump on a train to cosmopolitan Shanghai and gorge ourselves on the abundance of food options available to us.

It wouldn’t just be eating, obviously. We’d visit local landmarks, get out to local bars, and daydream about Nanjing one day being even a tenth as cool as Shanghai.

Nanjing, of course, has come to feel like home to me – but back when it was just me, my ex, and a few scattered friends in the city; Shanghai was a nice escape from reality.

Being in a Chinese Sitcom

It never panned out quite as we’d hoped, but for a while there it looked as if a few of my friends and I might actually get to be TV stars in China.

What had started out as a simple ‘Help Wanted’ ad on an internet message board turned into us writing a half dozen episodes of a sitcom about expat life in China. I was to be William, a thinly veiled (but slightly more rotund) Barney Stinson clone. That wasn’t my idea: we just wrote plots around the characters we were given.

We rehearsed it, we held casting sessions to find the perfect/most acceptable Chinese actors to join our motley crew, and we even went so far as filming a pilot (although by this stage, I’d chosen a month in SE Asia over a week dealing with our borderline sociopath director/producer).

Ultimately, though, it amounted to naught. Still, we had a lot of fun fantasizing about someday being able to quit our day jobs and live off TV earnings.

Boys Weekends in Hangzhou and Qingdao

In the embryonic days of my return to singularity, I was lucky enough to have two good mates in Nanjing who were only too happy to have their wingman back. To celebrate, we made grand plans to take a trip to a new place every two weeks.

Sinking Paulaner beers at the Qingdao International Beer Festival.

Summer was upon us, and it had melted away the lethargy of a long and unpleasant Chinese winter. We spent that first weekend away biking in the 40C heat around Hangzhou’s West Lake, and the second weekend was spent drinking watery beer at the Qingdao International Beer Festival.

West Lake really is a slice of serenity in a bustling country.

We’d had such grand plans for further trips. We would conquer Yangzhou and Changzhou; Shanghai and Anhwe and beyond… And then work decided to ship Byron off to the middle of nowhere, and put paid to our dreams of a summer of weekends away.

Bastards.

Showing my Family Nanjing

More recently, I had the pleasure of getting to show my family (well, most of my family) my own patch of China. While my plans to take them to the ever-crowded Nanjing Massacre Memorial never did pan out, it was still surreal to have my siblings stretched out on my couch while my parents took a nap in my bed. It was odd to share a beer with Leigh at my favourite Japanese restaurant, or here Izaak talk about high school life as we dodged pedestrians on our walk to the Hilton for lunch.

Most of my family hanging out in Nanjing.

It wasn’t quite as much fun as I’d had traveling to Seoul and Mokpo with my family back in 2008, but it was as pleasant as a drink of water after some time in the desert to have them here.

The Worst Hangover Ever

I guess this wouldn’t go down as a pleasant memory, but spare a thought for the single roughest day I’ve ever had.

In a hostel in Chengdu, Sichuan; we decided to stumble downstairs for the free dumpling night. As I am wont to do when presented with the opportunity to interact with people, I went about telling jokes and making friends. Before too long ‘free dumplings’ had become ‘lots of beer and baiju’.

All thoughts of an early night were soon forgotten as we ended up at a nightclub and continued drinking into the wee hours. I drunkenly changed the code on my phone and then locked it (forcing me to do a lengthy manual reset on it the next day) and (much to my shame) vaguely recall being sick in a McDonalds urinal.

It was hardly my finest hour, and it only grew worst when we woke up two hours after falling into bed to go on our tour to the panda sanctuary.

I don’t remember getting there, but I do remember fighting the urge to be sick all over again as I snapped photos of giant pandas and red pandas and wished I could join them in lying in the green, cool bamboo for a few hours.

With that not being an option, I opted to pay for another night in the hostel just so I could curl up in the fetal position for a few hours and make that oft broken promise to never drink again. Yuck!

Trips Abroad

These don’t strictly count as memories of China, but I had to take a moment to highlight the equally awesome trips I’ve taken away from China while I was here. After all, China funded them and China afforded me the opportunity to take them.

My romantic trip to the United States to sweep a girl off her feet in 2012.

Three weeks in Thailand and Cambodia drinking smoothies while soaking in plenty of sun (and a little culture too).

Two weeks back in Australia to recharge my batteries and meet my niece.

Visiting Edinburgh was a highlight from my recent UK trip.

Just hanging out at Koh Phi Phi in 2013.

Celebrating 4th of July in Miami in 2012.

A week revisiting South Korea and my old stomping grounds in Busan and Gwangju.

Three fantastic weeks traveling in the Philippines with my brothers and friends.

Two weeks in the United Kingdom to attend a friend’s wedding and check off some bucket list items.

They’ve all been covered elsewhere and this post is already powerful long, but they warrant a mention all the same.

A (Mostly) Wonderful 2.5 Years

While I am happy to be leaving and heading off on a new adventure, it’s been a wonderful two years. I did make a list of the things I’ll miss about life in China, but I think this one touches more on what I’ve loved most about my time here and those memories I’ll look back on.

I’ll shut-up now.

Great Britain, London

24 Hours in London

June 26, 2014 5 Comments

24 Hours in London

I can’t decide whether it’s excitement, my sleep pattern being out of whack, or the five inconsiderate French backpackers deciding to hold a war meeting at 5am right next to my head that’s done it – but I’m up and out of bed before 6.30am on my first day in London.

Having gotten in late the previous night, I’d managed to navigate the London Underground and find my way out to Upton Park (home of my beloved, but frustratingly absent West Ham United) with only minor detours.

My base for the week, the Globe Trott Inn, proved to be a remarkably nice place to stay despite its low price tag. A short walk from Upton Park Station and the Boleyn Ground where Bobby Moore once worked his magic, its rooms are spacious and comfortable, and the staff helpful. I couldn’t have wished for a better base in London, and I have to thank both them and Hostelsclub for making the stay possible.

So proud is the area of its former captain, that there's a statue to commemorate their role in the 1966 World Cup win. — So proud is the area of its former captain, that there’s a statue to commemorate their role in the 1966 World Cup win.

After a short chat with a Korean girl and her French Canadian companions in the dining room while I leech the free WiFi, it’s time for me to venture off and see what my first 24 Hours in London can turn up.

The Whistlestop Tour of London

I’d read on a few sites that it would be worth buying a ticket on one of the hop on-hop off bus tours of London and using that as both a means to scout what I was interested in seeing and as a way of getting around, but with my Chinese winter belly overhanging my waistband and my wallet lighter than I’d have liked it, I decided to try it my own way.

1. Arrive at Waterloo Station

It’s good and central, putting me just a short walk from the London Eye and the many other iconic sights that lie along the unmissable Thames.

2. The London Eye and London Dungeon

I contemplated either shelling out the rather exorbitant fees for either of these tourist traps or even paying for one of those London day passes, but ultimately decided that I didn’t need to see London from behind a sheet of plexi-glass, nor did I have a great deal of interest in seeing actors shame themselves for money.

Some may consider it an eyesore, but I found the London Eye quite fun to photograph.

Instead, I took the opportunity to snap some photos and let it sink in that I was actually in London. I’d seen it on TV so often growing up that it was hard to believe I’d actually made it there.

Of course, had money (and time) allowed, I’d have at least liked to have ridden the London Eye. As it was, I figured I could better use the 25 elsewhere, and the line looked like it would have eaten up too much of my day.

3. The Westminster Bridge and Westminster Abbey

A quick stroll across the Westminster Bridge (itself, quite beautiful) took me to the stunning Westminster Abbey and the attached Big Ben. It’s not quite on the level of the Pyramids or the Great Wall, but there’s something to be said for gazing up at that magnificent, gothic building and realizing that most of this city is older than your own country by more than a little bit.

The only problem with photographing this icon? Jockeying for position with every other bastard.

A visit to Westminster Abbey to see some of the many famous people who have been buried is definitely a must in London, and if you’ve an appreciation for architecture (or have read and loved Ken Follet’s Pillars of the Earth), there’s plenty to like about the abbey itself.

4. Walk the Thames

It’s mid-morning by the time I’m done with Westminster Abbey, and with no real concrete plan in my head, I follow the course of the Thames towards the distant St. Paul’s Cathedral.

It’s a typically London day – overcast and cool, and the walk is pleasant as I range from immaculate roadside gardens to inspiring war memorials highlighting the heroics of the men and women who died in service of Queen and Country during World Wars I and II.

One of many quaint garden parks along the Thames.

Looking across the Thames at the London cityscape, it’s hard to imagine the planes of the Luftwaffe soaring overhead and the death and destruction they wrought.

It being ANZAC Day back in Australia and New Zealand, I pause to reflect a moment at a memorial that also mentions those Australian and New Zealand servicemen who died in defense of the Commonwealth.

One of many war memorials along the Thames.

5. Somerset House

It’s around noon by the time my meanderings take me past this large building, and eager to find a restroom, I’m drawn in by brightly coloured signage for something called Pick Me Up.

I’m not a huge lover of the arts, but the enthusiasm (and cute British accent) of the woman at the front door works its magic, and soon I’m wandering the aisles admiring all manner of digital art. It’s a tad underwhelming at first – just another art exhibit – but then I stumble upon the more interactive elements of the exhibit.

One of many quirky exhibits at the Pick Me Up Festival.

Artists and quirky start-ups are represented on the second floor, and I spend some time flirting with a cashier before I make a few purchases – greeting cards and a hand-made journal.

Then it’s downstairs to an area where guests are invited to actually participate in making some art. I’m not a particularly graphically minded lad, but I’m soon hunkered down around a long wooden table with a bunch of other grown-ups.

Some of the better examples... — Some of the better examples…

We’ve all got markers and glue and tissue paper in hand, tongues pressed between our lips, and looks of intense concentration on our faces as we create monsters to add to the exhibit. It’s not exactly how I imagined I’d spend my first afternoon in London, but it’s a fun diversion all the same.

6. Lunch

It’s around 2pm by the time I’m done being an artistic genius, and so I wander on towards the distant and distinctive shape of St. Paul’s iconic dome.

I pass a man wearing a Newcastle Knights jersey on the way and shout “Go the Knights”, only to have him harrumph and shake his head.

“Bloody colonials”, I imagine him thinking as he continues on with his day of being a joyless jerk.

Apparently these are popular in London. A cronut is a popular of a croissant and a donut.

Unperturbed, I stop at a café and grab a cup of coffee as I peruse the menu. My old football buddy, Skye, has asked if I’d like to do dinner and drinks. A quick glance at my watch indicates it’s better I just hold off until dinner, so I finish my coffee and head off.

7. St. Paul’s Cathedral

Maybe I’m an idiot, but it took me a little while to figure out:

a). How to buy a ticket to St. Paul’s Cathedral

b). How to actually get in once I had a ticket

Thankfully, the grounds aren’t exactly dull, and I snapped some pictures before finally figuring it out and heading inside.

Gazing up at St. Paul's instantly recognizable dome. — Gazing up at St. Paul’s instantly recognizable dome.

There’s no photography allowed inside, of course, but with my audio guide on I venture into the shadowy, hallowed depths of the cathedral to see its wonders.

I’m seated underneath the dome and gazing up its beauty when the choir comes out to prepare for the evening’s Eventide service, giving those of us in attendance a hauntingly beautiful backing to our roaming. I eventually cast off the audio tour in favour of hearing them sing.

With a bit of time to kill before Skye arrives, I decide I’ll head upstairs to check out the Whispering Gallery. It doesn’t quite live up to its legend, in my opinion, but the view is certainly impressive.

Many call their climb to a halt there, but I decide to press on up to the very pinnacle of the outer dome. The stairs are claustrophobic at points and steep throughout, and by the time I reach the top I’m both sweaty and sore.

The view, though, is worth the temporary tiredness. The whole of London stretches out in front of you in a way that I sincerely doubt the London Eye can match. The climb isn’t quite as convenient, but the cost is less and the wind whipping through your hair makes the moment feel entirely more tangible.

A (very foggy) view of the Shard from the top of St. Paul's Cathedral. — A (very foggy) view of the Shard from the top of St. Paul’s Cathedral.

It’s arguably the highlight of my first 24 hours in London.

8. An Impromptu Pub Crawl

My friend Skye meets me not long after I’ve descended and cooled myself off with some lemonade, and we’re quickly making our way between the various crowded bars in the area for a few pints and a catch up.

We’ve not seen one another since roughly 2005 – but it’s not long before we’re cracking jokes and she’s putting me to shame with her ale drinking abilities. I’ve not yet come to terms with the fact that the beer is so heavy and warm in the Old Dart.

The pubs we pass are all older than the country I come from. I find this sobering, even as the beer is having the opposite effect.

We eventually stop for a surprisingly good Thai meal (and more beer), before heading back towards the Thames.

The sun has not yet set despite it being 7pm, so we alternate between stopping at bars and snapping photos of the river and its many (many, many) bridges.

Looking back across the bridge at St. Paul's Cathedral. — Looking back across the bridge at St. Paul’s Cathedral.

Is anybody else surprised by how uninspiring London Bridge is? Jesus, it can fall down for all I care.

By 10pm and a good six or seven beers, we’re back by Waterloo Station and I’m doing my level best to keep my eyes open after a half-drunk beer. Despite wanting to party on, it’s just not happening, and I struggle to retain consciousness on my way back to Upton Park.

9. Home

Dog-tired and thoroughly pleased with my first 24 hours in England, I crash out before midnight. Little do I know, tiredness or not, I’ll be up at 5am the next morning to do it all over again.

Your Say

How would you spend 24 hours in London?

China, Countdowns, Nanjing

The 10 Things I’ll Miss About Life in China

June 24, 2014 No Comment

I’m not gonna write you a love song…

With my time here in Nanjing down to five weeks and my time here in China down to six, I thought it a good time to reflect on the things I’m going to miss most when I get back to Australia.

A quick glance at the list might give you some indication as to my feelings towards China. While I’ve enjoyed my life here in a lot of ways, it’s often been in spite of China. Unlike South Korea, where I left with more things I’d miss than I could count, I’ve had a hard time actually coming up with things to put on this list.

I don’t know what it is about life in China that has never resonated with me, but there’s a lot about the lifestyle and very little about the country I’m going to miss.

From the constant search for the best VPN for China to the air pollution to the peeing in the streets to the frustrations of dealing with racist cab drivers, it’s not always been peaches and cream.

10 Things I’ll Miss About Life in China

Honorable Mention – Hanging with BronDom

This one shouldn’t really count, as I’ll be seeing them again in about six weeks, but one of the highlights of the last year I’ve had here in China has been getting to spend time with my brother, Dom, and his girlfriend every week. Our weekly dinners and/or lunches have been something I’ve looked forward to every week.

Celebrating New Year's with Dom, Bronte, Dave, and Byron. — Celebrating New Year’s with Dom, Bronte, Dave, and Byron.

Having them here for Christmas and my birthday made both of them wonderfully memorable experiences, and the opportunity to get to know them both better and travel with them has been a blast as well.

They leave in a week, meaning tonight marks our last dinner together in China, but I’m pleased to say I’ll be living with Dom when I’m back home and will get to see much more of them (along with the rest of the family!)

#10 – Delivery

Blessing or curse? I’m not sure yet.

Like much of Asia, China has a thriving home delivery culture. I’ve written before about delivery McDonalds in China, but there’s more than just the American fast food giant out there.

Websites like Line0 list the literally hundreds of businesses in each city (only in Chinese, sadly) that they can bring you food from – picking it up and acting as middle man in the same way that Aussie services like Menulog work. In larger cities, such as Shanghai and Beijing, English language services such as Sherpa’s make home delivery accessible to expats as well.

While I’ve come to love the convenience of coming home after work and having something delicious delivered from Taj Mahal, Jimmy’s, or Element Fresh – I can’t say my waist line has loved the ease of access to unhealthy food in my bedroom.

#9 – Street Food

Sticking with the somewhat epicurean theme, let me focus on the one area of Chinese food that I’ve developed some fondness – street food.

Delightfully spicy pockets of meaty goodness from the streets of Urumqi, Xinjiang.

Unlike a lot of my fellow expats in China, I haven’t fallen in love with the hole-in-the-wall noodle shops or the Beijing duck joints, nor do I share the local fascination with mutton or fried chicken. While I’ve found the occasional dish I’ve enjoyed in a restaurant, it’s safe to say that Chinese food hasn’t bewitched me like Korean food did.

The exception to this has been street food such as jian bing, shao kao, baotzi, and quick and dirty fried noodles. It doesn’t quite compare to a dodgy late night kebab at home, but it does the trick.

#8 – Teaching

I’ve enjoyed the experience of teaching older children, having mostly taught 4-12 year olds while doing the ESL teaching thing in South Korea.

While there’s definitely been more issues with discipline and inappropriate questions (“Do you masturbate, teacher?” being one that most sticks with me), I enjoy being able to have something approaching a friendship with my students.

Celebrating a lesson's completion with the kids in Shuanggou, Jiangsu, China. — Celebrating a lesson’s completion with the kids in Shuanggou, Jiangsu, China.

I’ve played World of WarCraft with some of my most recent graduates, traveled around Lianyungang with another, and participated in Christmas concert performances with two years worth of students.

It’s also been fun being able to explain more complex facets of the English language, as I never felt comfortable teaching stuff like phonics and syllables when I don’t really recall learning them myself. I mean, I know them – but damned if I can remember what it was like having to learn them!

My personal highlights of my time here, oddly, have been teaching away from my own school. Volunteering in Shuanggou for two days and spending a month living in Lianyungang are my fondest teaching memories from China.

#7 – Cricket

I’ve written at length about cricket in China, but the little community was my social life when I first came to China. While I’ve certainly been guilty of being AWOL more often than not (Sunday is the day of rest, damn it!) I’ve got many fond memories of sunny Sunday afternoon cricket sessions, the tour to Xiamen last October, and the annual Nanjing Rural Sixes.

Cricket in China is anything but conventional, but certainly fun.

Special mention also to the very fun 2012 Nanjing Beer Olympics as one of the most memorable drunken days of my early life in Nanjing.

It’s not just the sport (and if you’d seen me play, you’d say it isn’t the sport at all); but the good group of lads here in Nanjing who make it something I’ll miss. The looseness of the Bogans and the dour professionalism of my own Nongmin has made for many funny, somewhat hazy memories.

#6 – Dating

I’m sure it has to do with me being more confident and more content with who I am as a person, but China has been a place where I’ve really come out of my shell and gone on a lot more dates. In fact, doing a rough count back, I’ve dated more people and gone on more dates in my two years here than I had cumulatively in all of my years beforehand.

By dating, of course, I mean going on dates – even if they don’t progress beyond a first date. Let me take my small victory.

Of course, I spent a year of my time here living with and dating Nomadic American, and in the time since (after allowing a respectable amount of time to pass post break-up) I’ve met some really cool people. While none of them have panned out, it’s been good to be getting myself out there.

#5 – Chinese Hospitality

While I’ll touch on day to day interactions with the Chinese in my ’10 Things I Won’t Miss About Life in China’ post, it would be remiss of me to not mention the many pleasant interactions I’ve had with the local people.

Any time I’ve been sent out to visit an affiliated school or interacted with Chinese friends, co-workers, students (or their parents), or friends of friends – I’ve been treated with the kind of hospitality I could never imagine myself receiving in the west.

An ex-student's family treats us to seafood and entirely too much baiju when visiting Lianyungang. — An ex-student’s family treats us to seafood and entirely too much baiju when visiting Lianyungang.

Everywhere I’ve been it’s been banquet meals, more baiju than I care to recall (or ever drink again), photo opportunities with random locals, and people going out of their way to be helpful. From my lovely co-teacher, Sonia from LYG to the random student I’d never taught whose mother drove me around all day to see tourist attractions – the Chinese sure do know how to make a guest feel like an honoured guest, rather than an imposition.

A local familiar in Xinjiang takes us under their wing.

#4 – Living Like a King

Following on from feeling like an honoured guest, it must be said that I’ve really enjoyed living a life of relative leisure here in China.

With my job only requiring me in class between 10 and 20 hours a week, it’s allowed me plenty of time for video games and sleeping in, as well as my role in Nanking Nation and my various other random projects and hobbies.

While the pay isn’t high by Chinese ESL standards, it’s been more than enough for me to have decadences like a maid visiting once a week, meals out with friends whenever I like, and plenty of lengthy drinking sessions with friends. It’s allowed me to travel (see point #2) and see both China and the world.

In short, it’s been a good life for me. Where South Korea felt like college with its late starts, drunken nights, and dorm accommodation – China’s definitely been a more grown up lifestyle. Except for the drinking, of course. That’s a constant.

#3 – Taobao

eBay? Pfft, that site is full of overpriced, overregulated shit! Give me Taobao, the Chinese equivalent, any day of the week!

While you need a Chinese bank card (and the ability to read Chinese) to use the site proper, services like Taobaoring do the heavy lifting for you and charge a negligible fee to do it. I’ve bought so many Adventure Time shirts, Christmas presents, and Warhammer miniatures through the site, and it’s going to be hard to say goodbye to it when I go.

It’s dirt cheap, of course, because everything is either made here or is a knock-off. But who cares??

#2 – Travel

I’ll touch on the nightmare that is dealing with Chinese taxi drivers later, but by and large, China is a great place to travel.

Within the city; taxis, subways, and buses are all cheap. Ranging from the equivalent of 30 cents for a subway ride to around $2 for a cab ride, it’s so affordable that walking around is positively plebian. Couple that with the ready availability (and cheapness) of eBikes, scooters, and motorbikes and you’ve got a recipe for a very accessible city life.

Rocking my new hat on the shores of Lake Karakul in Xinjiang.

When traveling within China, domestic travel isn’t particularly pricey. Cheap domestic flights, sleeper trains, and bumpy long hail buses connect virtually every city, town, and village. Weekend trips to places like Hangzhou and the Qingdao International Beer Festival have been fond memories from my time here, as have longer trips to the likes of Jiuzhaigou, Hainan, and Xinjiang.

The large number of holidays my job (formerly) offered also made traveling abroad possible. In my two years here I’ve visited the United States (again), the Philippines, Thailand, Cambodia, the United Kingdom, South Korea (again), and Australia.

#1 – The Nanking Nation

Last night was my last night as master of ceremonies, photographer, and generally social butterfly for the Nanking Nation’s monthly party bus. Since joining the Nanking Nation first as a member last October and then as a team member in February, I’ve had a blast and made more friends than I can count.

Of the dozens of photos of me from NKN parties, this remains my favourite.

Many of those are boozy acquaintances rather than lifelong chums, obviously, but it’s a far cry from the relatively social isolation I felt during my first year and a half in China.

I’m going to miss the weekly meetings and drama, the venue wrangling, the wining and dining from potential partners and, most of all, the awesome people I get to party with every 3-4 weeks.

I’ll miss you most of all, James!

Myself, James, and Colin display our rocking bods for no real reason.

Australia, Countdowns, New England, Newcastle, Sydney

More Than Sydney: Other Reasons to Visit NSW

June 20, 2014 4 Comments

Other Reasons to Visit NSW

Most backpackers and travelers to Australia would be forgiven for thinking that New South Wales begins at Sydney’s Kingsford Smith Airport and ends somewhere out by the Blue Mountains. Sydney is a sprawling city with no shortage of things to do: Bondi Beach, the aforementioned Blue Mountains, a Sydney Harbour Bridge Climb, wandering around Darling Harbour, visiting Luna Park or The Rocks, or taking the ferry across to Manly and visiting my favourite beach in Sydney, Shelly Beach. And that’s just a few of my favourite things to do there!

But when you visit NSW, there is considerably more to see and do than just set up camp in the capital. If time allows on your visit, here are a few other places to get out and see if you want the true Aussie experience.

Check out this new promo from Destination NSW for just a taste, and then read on for the main course!

Honorable Mentions – Lord Howe Island and the Snowy Mountains

Could these two be any less alike? A World Heritage listed tropical island and the highest mountains in Australia might seem worlds apart, but they’re united by their shared natural beauty and the fact they’re (sadly) often overlooked by tourists intent on the Cairns -> Sydney -> Melbourne loop.

With a limit of just 400 visitors at any given time, Lord Howe Island is truly one of the most beautiful islands in the entire Pacific. Whether you’re a water baby or a hiker, there’s an abundance of wildlife both above and below the waves for you to get up close and personal with.

Lord Howe Island is one of Australia's unspoiled gems. Photo by Pete the Poet. — Lord Howe Island is one of Australia’s unspoiled gems. Photo by Pete the Poet.

By contrast, the Snowy Mountains are one of Australia’s most popular playgrounds, offering residents of the warm and dry continent an opportunity to see the white stuff that the rest of the world takes for granted. Australia’s highest mountains, only glacial lakes, and four ski resorts can all be found in these aptly (but not particularly imaginatively) named mountains.

Ski lifts are few and far between in Australia, but they've got 'em in the Snowy Mountains. Photo by Fran Tapia. — Ski lifts are few and far between in Australia, but they’ve got ’em in the Snowy Mountains. Photo by Fran Tapia.

Thredbo, Perisher, Charlotte Pass, and Selwyn Snowfields all offer world class ski facilities, and they’re blissfully close to the starkly beautiful Kosciuszko National Park when you want a break from moguls and the like.

The Snowy Mountains offer visitors to Australia a rare opportunity to feel something most Aussies never feel – cold. That’s got to be worth a look!

#5 – Newcastle

Located just a few hours north of Sydney by train, New South Wales’ second largest city is definitely worth a visit if you’re a beach bum. The city boasts some truly stellar beaches including Redhead, Merewether, scenic Nobby’s Beach, and huge selection of others in nearby coastal towns such as Nelson’s Bay.

Bar Beach in Newcastle. Stunning. Photo by OzinOH

With a real country feel to it, the city still manages to have all of the modern conveniences you expect to find in a city. There’s a healthy night life, professional sports teams in both the National Rugby League and the A-League, and the Newcastle Entertainment Centre regularly hosts concerts and performances.

The nearby Hunter Valley wine region is a must for those who like the finer things in life, and the B&B scene in the area makes it particularly popular with couples and older travelers.

Lake Macquarie, the largest permanent saltwater lake in the Southern Hemisphere, is also worth a visit. At over twice the size of Sydney Harbout, the lake is heaven for fishing enthusiasts, sailors, picnickers, and nature lovers. Recent development of a walking track around the lake have made it more accesible than ever. A walk along the city’s picturesque Bather’s Way (with an obligatory dip in the historic public baths) is well worth the time.

Australia doesn't have a lot of lakes; so when we do them, we do them right. Photo by Bill Collison. — Australia doesn’t have a lot of lakes; so when we do them, we do them right. Photo by Bill Collison.

The 250km Great North Walk that joins Newcastle and Sydney might have just made my bucket list too…

Want to know more about Newcastle? Consider taking a look at my 7 Things to do in Newcastle.

#4 – The New England

If you’re in Australia for beach bronzed babes and wild parties & festivals, the New England region isn’t going to be on your agenda. If you’re in the slightly older set or just enjoy a little peace and quiet while you soak in ‘real’ Aussie life, than this quaint slice of rural paradise is not without its charms.

A stunning shot of the leaves turning in Armidale by Dan Proud.

I’ve written at length about the reasons to visit the New England, but let me give you a brief run-down here as well. Including rural cities such as Tamworth and Armidale, the New England region offers one of the few places in Australia to experience all four seasons. Fans of foliage will find Armidale absolutely charming as the leaves change, and the university town has a surprisingly active food, art, and theatre scene. Nearby national parks include Washpool National Park, New England National Park, and Torrington State Recreational Park; offering an opportunity to get up close and personal with some of Australia’s unique flora and fauna.

Tamworth, the largest city in the region, is also Australia’s country music capital. Every February, the town turns from sleepy farming community to Nashville as the best and brightest from Australia and abroad come to pluck their steel guitars, croon about love lost, and sink plenty of good Aussie beer.

Country music gets everybody excited. Photo by T-Oh! and Matt

With its rolling green hills, quaint pubs and heritage building lined streets; the New England offers tourists a glimpse into life as it is outside of Australia’s bustling, cosmopolitan cities. It’s the kind of place you can just hitch up a caravan, drive until a town catches your fancy, and be guaranteed a genuine experience.

#3 – The North Coast

Backpackers have long been aware of the charms of Byron Bay, but there’s more to the New South Wales North Coast than just this popular beach town. With a charming and laid back hippy vibe, the North Coast boasts beaches to rival Sydney but with a considerably slower pace.

Byron Bay's famous lighthouse stands on one of Australia's easternmost points. Photo by Luke Zeme. — Byron Bay’s famous lighthouse stands on one of Australia’s easternmost points. Photo by Luke Zeme.

Byron Bay is perhaps the most famous spot along the scenic drive from Sydney to Brisbane, and its beaches are among Australia’s most easternmost. It’s more than just a place to surf or sunbathe, though; Byron Bay offers some of the best whale watching along the east coast, and that hippy vibe that has been drawing in tourists for decades now.

Coffs Harbour, the largest city in the region, offers plenty of family oriented tourist spots like the popular Dolphin Marine Magic and Big Banana, while also having tremendous beaches both in the city and in nearby villages such as Sawtell and Woolgoolga (affectionately known as ‘Woopi’ by locals). Coffs Harbour is also a short drive to Bellingen, another well loved ‘hippy town’.

Heading inland a bit, Dorrigo and the surrounding Dorrigo National Park offer visitors the chance to explore an untouched temperate rainforest and experience some stunning views of waterfalls and wooded valleys.

Tell me that doesn't look inviting! Photo by Brian Yap. — Tell me that doesn’t look inviting! Photo by Brian Yap.

Where the New England offers a glimpse into Australia’s rural lifestyle, the North Coast lets visitors experience the truly laid back, surfie vibe that has long been hard to find in cosmopolitan Sydney.

#2 – The South Coast

If you want to avoid the tourist crowds without giving up the beautiful landscapes, you can’t go past the often overlooked New South Wales South Coast.

Windswept and isolated, Garie Beach looks like a slice of heaven. Photo by Hadi Zaher. — Windswept and quiet, Garie Beach looks like a slice of heaven. Photo by Hadi Zaher.

Where heavily forested mountains and dramatic cliffs meet the churning Tasman Sea, the stretch from Wollongong south towards the Victorian border offers up some of Australia’s most breath-taking views and a huge number of windswept beaches that you’ll often have all to yourself. The 22km Kiama Coastal Walk is a must if you want to stand atop these isolated cliffs and gaze across towards distant New Zealand.

The stunning coastline of the Illawarra region.

Wollongong is only an hour or so south of Sydney, making it a great day trip, but why not venture farther afield to the white, sandy beaches of Jervis Bay or the serene beaches & bays of Merimbula and the Sapphire Coast?

Like much of the east coast, surfing, swimming, sunbathing, and whale-watching are the order of the day, and the South Coast also has no shortage of quaint seaside towns perfect for a sleepy B&B or a bit of wine and fresh seafood.

#1 – The Outback

Lying roughly 1,000km from Sydney, the NSW Outback is perhaps Australia’s most accessible desert region – offering tourists the chance to see the famous ‘Red Centre’ in all of its glory. Take the Outback Explorer from Sydney to Broken Hill and you’re at the heart of what I like to call Mad Max country.

Looking like a shot from Mars, Broken Hill is eerily beautiful. Photo by Christian Ronnel.

There’s plenty to see once you get out there. Broken Hill is a wonderfully quaint old mining town that boasts a dynamic blend of art and stereotypical Aussie ocker culture and it’s also a good staging point for any visits you might want to make to the iconic Darling River. Nearby Menindee (where I lived for two years) is famed for its grapes and its picturesque lakes, Silverton is a real Aussie ghost town, and White Cliffs gives opal hunters and tourists a chance to sleep in a wonderful underground hotel.

Head north and you’re passing into the upper Darling region where you’ll find outback towns such as Bourke and Walgett, the opal mecca that is Lightning Ridge, and quaint country towns such as Nyngan and Cobar.

The serenity of an outback sunrise is something you won't find in Sydney. — The serenity of an outback sunrise is something you won’t find in Sydney. Photo by Steve Malarkey.

Head further north still and you’re into the real red center. You’ll find the haunting ruins of Milparinka (where I had my first date), isolated Tibooburra (where I lived for a year), and Cameron’s Corner where you can stand in Queensland, New South Wales, and South Australia all at the same time.

There really is a wealth of beautiful sunsets, bizarre Australian fauna, sprawling red dunes, and lovable Aussie characters baking out in the harsh red centre. More people need to check it out.

You can learn a bit more about the area on the Outback NSW tourism site.

Your Say

As you can see, there is certainly a lot to be seen and done when you visit NSW – it’s just a matter of getting off the well worn tourist track and seeing what the place has to offer.

What are your favourite spots in NSW?

This is a sponsored post but opinions are my own.

Armidale, Australia, China, Japan, Plans, and 3 more

Thailand, Turkey

Where to in 2015?

June 11, 2014 6 Comments

An End to ESL Teaching in China

A few weeks ago I revealed that my time here in Nanjing is coming to an end. After over two sometimes wonderful and sometimes frustrating years here in the former capital of China, I’ll be headed home to Australia in August (exactly two months from today, actually).

But did any of you really think that was where this story ends? Would a habitual responsibility dodger such as myself really call it a day on the wanderlust lifestyle just because a job in one country didn’t work out?

Not bloody likely!

Six Months in Purgatory

It’s perhaps unfair of me to label Ben Lomond ‘purgatory’. I’m certainly excited about spending 5 or 6 months catching up with my siblings and parents, getting to know my niece and nephew, and rekindling my love for Australia.

I’m rapt to be home for the wedding of my best friend (where I’ll be best man), the second faux wedding of my other best friend, and the festive season with my family.

best family portrait ever — Best family portrait ever! Photo courtesy of Tony Grant.

I’m excited for service station runs to Guyra, cinema trips to Armidale, lazy summer mornings on the porch with the family, and the excitement that is the near month long festival of Christmas in Ben Lomond.

But in some ways, five months or so in my sleepy mountain village is purgatory. I won’t be traveling, I won’t be earning consistent money and (perhaps most importantly) I won’t have the weekly social excitement and the fortnightly romantic life I’ve enjoyed here in China.

In essence (with the exception of my amazing family) I’ll be in social exile.

The Options for 2015

Come 2015, though, I’m free as a bird and you’d best believe I’m headed somewhere shiny and new. If I’m going to be away from home and missing births, deaths, and marriages; I’d like it to be in somewhere new and exotic, rather than the same old, same old.

With that in mind, I’m not yet ready to hang up the ol’ ESL teaching ‘boots’, and have narrowed my potential destinations to seven. They are…

The UAE

The UAE is something akin to the ‘holy grail’ of ESL teaching gigs, offering pay equal to or even superior to that which a trained teacher could earn back in their native country.

Teaching is one of the most popular ways to set up a nomadic lifestyle.

I’ve had friends who have told tales of living in mansions (literally) and making truckloads of money in the cash-rich United Arab Emirates, and the ol’ savings account could certainly use an injection of ill-gotten oil money.

That said, the UAE loses out on the fact it’s an incredibly conservative country. There’d be precious few boozy nights out and (I imagine) a considerably less romantically diverse lifestyle in store for me in that neck of the woods.

Money vs. a social life. It’s a tough call…

Turkey

My friend Anthony, the man who got me into ESL teaching when he dragged me to Korea in 2007, has long been on me about getting my ass to Turkey. He’s had five or six wonderful years in the land that isn’t quite Europe, Asia, or Africa – and he’s had nothing but rave reviews for the country.

Family friends also call the nation home, and they’ve been similarly glowing in their praise.

The opportunity to live in a historic city like Istanbul and be right on the doorstep to both Europe and Africa is tempting, especially given my lack of experience on both continents.

The downside? Teaching ESL in Turkey is still a bit of a wild west situation, and this means visa runs and the risk of being kicked out on my ass.

Japan

I’ve been somewhat fascinated with Japan and Japanese culture since watching Lost in Translation; one of my favourite movies about travel.

A tranquil pond at the entrance to Sumiyoshi

My visit to Fukuoka in 2009 only heightened my interest in visiting the Land of the Rising Sun, and their ESL industry is still one of the better paying in Asia.

The downside? 40 hour work weeks are a near necessity, and the cost of living is amongst the highest in Asia. That means savings are going to be hard to come by unless I give up my footloose and fancy free lifestyle.

Thailand

If you’d asked me a year ago where I’d be teaching next, I’d have said Thailand. I spent three weeks in the country last Chinese New Year and absolutely loved the food, the welcoming culture, and the stunning beaches.

A man could get used to Thai sunsets... — A man could get used to Thai sunsets…

Friends in Thailand – both bloggers and teachers – seem to have the time of their lives. Given the new visa renewal rules have made it harder to use Thailand as a base for a digitally nomadic life, having a proper teaching visa would be a good way to secure a long term future in the country.

I’d be lying, though, if I said the recent political unrest hadn’t somewhat coloured my desire to revisit the country.

Elsewhere in China

A quick look at my bucket list shows that I’ve yet to tackle all of my objectives here in China. I’ve yet to see Xi’an’s Terra Cotta Warriors or the iconic Great Wall of China, nor have I visited every Chinese province or climbed the holy mountains.

Byron, Hogg, and I take Hangzhou by storm.

I’ve not loved life in China, but there’s something to be said for the opportunity to experience life in Guangdong, Sichuan, or Yunnan.

A Korean Return

Korea will always be my first travel love. Behind the forty hour work weeks, the awful two week a year vacation time, and the frustrations that come with living in a rather racist country – I will always love the place that took my travel virginity.

My first Korean apartment. Note the mattress on the floor acting as my bed. — I can’t say Korean accommodations are a big selling point…

Nights spent sipping soju and tucking into Korean BBQ, drunken weekends at the debauched Boryeong Mud Festival, late night noraebang with friends you made earlier that night, and the zany madness that is Korea…? Man, I miss it already!

Of course, the drawback is that I’m spending more of my very finite lifetime in a place I’ve already dedicated 2.5 years to.

Vietnam

Vietnam has been rising in my estimation a lot of late. It boasts a similar South East Asian vibe to nearby Thailand, whilst still sharing some points of commonality with China.

Don't tell me that doesn't look amazing. — Don’t tell me that doesn’t look amazing.

The teaching gig isn’t as lucrative as it might be in the UAE or Turkey, but the cultural experiences on offer are a great counter to that. The idea that I might spend 2015 alternately soaking in the beauty of Halong Bay, cruising lazily up the Mekong River, and just the opportunity to stay with locals in Vietnam are all pretty bloody tempting!

Your Say

Where do you think Aussie on the Road should base itself in 2015? What country would you be most interested in learning more about?

Ultimately, the decision is down to me (and fate), but I’d be interested to hear your thoughts!

« Previous
1
…
65
66
67
68
69
…
143
Next »

Pilgrimage: Lessons Learned Hiking the Kumano Kodo Iseji

The Pearl of Africa: 10 Reasons To Visit Uganda

Craft Beer in Beijing: A Boozy Beijing Brewery Tour with Lost Plate Tours

G'day!

Chris

A Word from Our Sponsor

Sending Money to Australia?

Driving the Karakorum Highway

Exploring Jiuzhaigou

Teaching in Rural Jiangsu

Christmas in China

The Nanjing Rural Sixes

Shanghai Weekends

Being in a Chinese Sitcom

Boys Weekends in Hangzhou and Qingdao

Showing my Family Nanjing

The Worst Hangover Ever

Trips Abroad