Destinations, Namibia
The towering dunes and parched desert give way to the churning Atlantic so suddenly that it seems implausible.

From Desert to Sea: Stunning Swakopmund

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My Love Affair with the Ocean

I wouldn’t really be an Australian if I didn’t have a healthy affection for the ocean with which my nation is gurt.

Some of my earliest memories are of being out beyond the breakers on my Dad’s shoulders and feeling both terrified and amazed by the ocean’s size and strength.

This fascination with the sea has been a driving force behind many of my life decisions and my travel plans.

My foot steps in the sand along the beach in Swakopmund.
My foot steps in the sand along the beach in Swakopmund.

I relocated to Newcastle back in 2004 for the express purpose of living on the beach, and when I was choosing a university to enroll in earlier this year – it was to Coffs Harbour for the cruisy beach lifestyle that I was drawn.

Likewise, some of my favourite travel memories have come from beach destinations. Whether it was the windswept and frigid Oregon coast, the garishly lit and deliciously lively Ocean City boardwalk, savouring the serenity on an isolated Zanzibar beach, or scuba diving off the coasts of Fiji and the Philippines – this desire to be close to the ocean has defined me.

So it was that I felt a growing sense of excitement and anticipation as our car made the long, bumpy, and dusty trek from Etosha National Park to Swakopmund.

Where the Desert Meets the Sea

It’s surreal when it happens.

Your first indication that there is a change coming is in the air. After a day of oppressively dry heat, the first hint of ocean cool is something biblical. It’s a tender kiss that soon goes into full blown, hand up under the shirt carress.

Then the sun-baked earth and the towering dunes give way and it’s like “Welcome to Jurassic Park” as the brilliant blue of the Atlantic and the idyllic little seaside town of Swakopmund comes into full view.

The towering dunes and parched desert give way to the churning Atlantic so suddenly that it seems implausible.
The towering dunes and parched desert give way to the churning Atlantic so suddenly that it seems implausible.

This trendy little colonial town with its cool nights, misty mornings, and German architecture seems so out of place after the parched desert you’ve spent hours driving through.

The town itself is quaint in a way that instantly wins your heart. The old-fashioned clock towers, the charming Germanic architecture, the palm trees that line the broad streets, and the distinctly African charm of its bustling markets and friendly people blend together in a way like something out of high fantasy.

Broad streets, European architecture, and palm trees.
Broad streets, European architecture, and palm trees.

Dining in Swakopmund

Our first port of call is lunch, and it’s no surprise that Swakopmund offers up delectable seafood in spades. Whether you’re craving a quick and dirty fish & chips, some surprisingly good Japanese sushi, or a full-blown decadent feast of lobster, escargot, and oysters, Swakopmund has you covered.

So good was the selection of seafood that I even took a break from eating every animal in Namibia.

Over the course of our three nights in Swakopmund we really mixed things up: fancy meals of fresh oysters and delicious kingklip at The Tug and Jetty 1905 as well as more down to earth fare at the blink and you’ll miss it Fish Deli.

Sushi at Fish Deli. This place was easy to miss, but it had great sushi, great Asian themed dishes, and traditional fish & chips.
Sushi at Fish Deli. This place was easy to miss, but it had great sushi, great Asian themed dishes, and traditional fish & chips.

There’s definitely plenty of options in this sleepy little seaside town, ranging from authentic local fare all the way up to the kind of high end dining that Jetty and The Tug both offer.

Like everything in Namibia, it’s cheap too. A good meal was a fraction of what I’d have paid in Australia.

Sushi at Fish Deli. This place was easy to miss, but it had great sushi, great Asian themed dishes, and traditional fish & chips.
The aptly named ‘Jetty’ sits at the end of Swakopmund’s iconic jetty. The perpetually rough Atlantic makes the whole structure shudder. It’s one of the more exciting meals you’ll ever have.

Staying in Swakopmund

As a seaside destination in a very dry country, Swakopmund is an understandably popular place for visitors both domestic and international.

Wherever you find tourists, you’ll also find an abundance of options.

As part of our famil with the Namibian Tourism Board, we were lucky enough to stay at two utterly beautiful properties: The Stiltz and the Desert Breeze.

Despite being in the same city and being owned by the same affable chap, the two properties couldn’t have been any more different.

Where The Stiltz exist in perpetually misty seaside tranquility, the stylish bungalows of Desert Breeze cut striking figures against the backdrop of the Namib Desert. What they had in common were one of the most delicious breakfast spreads I’ve ever sampled, friendly staff, and stylish rooms.

With the ocean purring in the background and colourful flamingoes nearby, Stiltz was a fantastic place to hang my hat.
With the ocean purring in the background and colourful flamingoes nearby, Stiltz was a fantastic place to hang my hat.
The silence that exists out on the fringe of the desert is just surreal.
The silence that exists out on the fringe of the desert is just surreal.

What to do in Swakopmund

Despite being seaside towns, Swakopmund and nearby Walvis Bay aren’t the best place in the world to escape for a sunbathing and swimming holiday.

The Atlantic is a frigid and angry beast for much of the year, making it more picturesque than it is pleasant for swimming.

Of course, that doesn’t mean that there isn’t plenty to do both on and out of the water. Dolphin & seal watching, wreck-diving on the ominously named Skeleton Coast, wind & kite surfing, fishing, pleasure cruises, and more can be found in the area.

The town’s proximity to the Dorob National Park makes it something truly unique as far as beach towns go. Where else in the world can you enjoy fresh seafood in a waterfront cafe and be in the harsh desert less than an hour later?

Our own tour of Swakopmund would include a desert safari and a sandboarding excursion which I’ll write about a bit later.

Standing atop a sand dune trying to look wistful.
Standing atop a sand dune trying to look wistful.

Swakopmund was just so unlike anywhere else I’d been. It was at once a desert city and a seaside escape; somewhere both European and distinctly African.

It’s the kind of place you immediately fall in love with, and my only regret is not having had more time there to appreciate it’s unique charm.

Caren and Astrid wander along the beach on a cool June afternoon.
Caren and Astrid wander along the beach on a cool June afternoon.

Your Say

Have you ever visited a place that immediately just felt like home for you?

Destinations, Namibia
An adorable lion cub enjoying the dawn sun by the road.

On Safari in Namibia – A Journey in Pictures

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On Safari in Namibia – Etosha National Park

Like many countries in Africa, Namibia is famous as a safari destination. While it may not boast the sheer variety of parks that Tanzania or Kenya might, Namibia is still home to a number of fantastic safari parks.

Of these parks, Etosha is the flagship. Located just a few hours north of Windhoek, the park is incredibly accessible and surrounded by a number of accommodation options.

Whether you’re with a tour group or doing a self-drive safari, Etosha maintains strict security including curfews and spraying your vehicle for pests. It’s a slick operation and left us feeling that the animals within the park were in good hands.

Accommodation

While there are a number of places to stay within the park, we would be calling the beautiful Etosha Safari Lodge our home for the duration of the visit.

Each ‘room’ is a separate chalet with a balcony located a short walk from the lodge itself, there’s a real sense of serenity. Aside from the rattling of air conditioners, the only sounds are the noises o f the savannah itself.

My little slice of paradise for two nights.
My little slice of paradise for two nights.

The lodge also had amazing food, featuring a mix of game meats, vegetarian-friendly deliciousness, and some stellar desserts as well. Enjoying your meal out on the terrace that overlooks Etosha at sunset is something special, and the outdoor firepit and sundowner lounge was a popular place for our motley crew to hang out at day’s end.

My delicious Namibia Sunrise enjoyed by the pool.
My delicious Namibia Sunrise enjoyed by the pool.

Another nice touch was the elevated pool. With a stunning view of the surrounding land, it was a really good place to relax. It was winter in Namibia when we visited, but that didn’t stop me from taking a rather brisk dip.

etosha safari lodge pool
It’s….so….COLD!

On Safari in Namibia

We were lucky enough to pay two visits to Etosha National Park – one in the afternoon and one at dawn the following day.

Rather than give you a blow by blow of the entire sordid tale, I thought it would be better to instead take you on a safari in pictures.

Etosha isn’t as verdant as Ngorongoro or as famous as the Serengeti, but its dry and dusty plains had a stark beauty all of their own, and I was surprised by how many animals we spotted. Eleven lions wandering the road, five rhinoceroses, and plenty of kudu & oryx were definitely highlights.

Alright, shutup Chris. Let your photos do the talking.

Enjoy!

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Destinations, Namibia
Cured kudu, cream cheese, and sundried tomato panini. Not a bad introduction to game meat.

Big Game Meat Eating in Namibia

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Hot on the heels of my recent post about the strangest food in the world, I thought I’d share with you a slightly different safari I went on while in Namibia recently.

Not content with seeing the many beautiful animals that Namibia is home to, I also wanted to take a bit of a culinary safari. Before you jump down my throat and call me a monster for eating animals that are endangered in other countries, hear me out.

Game Meat in Namibia

Game meat is big business in Namibia, where sustainable farming has managed to increase rather than decrease the number of oryx, kudu, eland, springboks, and other animals in the country.

Our guide, Stefan, summer it up best when he described the situation in Namibia. I’m paraphrashing him here, as it’s been two months since the conversation:

By giving game value, it encourages farmers to protect them rather than simply running them off their land. Oryx and elands are not seen as competition for their cattle or sheep, but as another piece of livestock. The animals are being kileld for meat, yes, but this value they are given encourages everybody to work towards their conservation.

While the oryx is endangered in some countries, its numbers in Namibia are healthy despite the animal appearing on the dinner plate.

As an Australian who has grown up able to enjoy a good kangaroo steak or stir fry, I wasn’t squeamish about trying some Namibian game meat.

Hell, if anything, I was excited.

Cured kudu, cream cheese, and sundried tomato panini. Not a bad introduction to game meat.
Cured kudu, cream cheese, and sundried tomato panini. Not a bad introduction to game meat.

Oryx Steak – Joe’s Beerhouse, Windhoek

Joe’s Beerhouse is something of a Windhoek staple, and with its quirky post-apocalyptic decor I immediately felt right at home. Whether you’re seated by a wall adorned with kitsch or you’re perched atop one of the repurposed toilets as a seat at the bar, you’re immersed in this Mad Max-esque setting.

Of course with a name like Joe’s Beerhouse, the place had a pretty good selection of beer as well. Plenty of good import brews and a local wheat beer called the Camelthorn Weizen that I fell immediately in love with.

We were here to eat though, and I made the most of it by ordering a sizable oryx steak at the recommendation of our guide.

Cooked medium and served up with a sizable baked potato, it was just about one of the finest things I’ve ever tasted. I could immediately see why oryx is a favourite among fans of game meat. So tender and flavourful!

My sizable oryx steak and all of the trimmings. Apologies for the flash.
My sizable oryx steak and all of the trimmings. Apologies for the flash.

Washed done with a light, slightly fruity wheat beer it was a real treat.

It almost made up for the guilt I felt at eating my favourite antelope species.

My travel companion, Caren, out-did me by ordering a sampler skewer that featured springbok, oryx, kudu, ostrich, zebra, and crocodile in one decadent carnivore treat.

Kudu Schnitzel & Springbok Stroganoff – Etosha Safari Lodge

The next animals on the agenda came in the form of one decadent meal at the exquisite Etosha Safari Lodge. When I wasn’t out admiring the breathtaking view of Etosha National Park from the sundowner deck, I was hunkered down in the open dining area enjoying the fantastic buffet meals they put on.

A different kudu schnitzel eaten at a roadside bakery halfway between Windhoek and Etosha.
A different kudu schnitzel eaten at a roadside bakery halfway between Windhoek and Etosha.

A schnitzel probably isn’t the best way to get a taste for a game meat, but I still found kudu to taste remarkably like elk or venison. With all of that breading and pepper sauce, it could have been a regular schnitzel though. It’s one I’ll need to try again.

Ditto the springbok stroganoff, which was delicious, but could easily have been beef or pork for all I could taste through the thick, creamy sauce.

Impala Steak – Kulala Desert Lodge

Next in the food chain was impala, sometimes known as the McDonalds of the Savannah due to their distinctive ‘M’ marking. I’ll write more about my wonderful experience sleeping under the stars at the Kulala Desert Lodge soon. The experience really warrants its own write-up.

Eaten with a pepper sauce and some baked veggies, this one was a slightly tougher eat than the oryx.

I would still say I liked it more than a traditional beef steak though, and that’s pretty high praise given my appreciation for a good Aussie steak.

Another delicious steak. This time - impala.
Another delicious steak. This time – impala.

Eland Steak – Hotel EuropaHof, Swakopmund

The last notable animal to feature on my plate was the eland. The largest member of the antelope family wasn’t a bad eat at all, although he (or she) wasn’t a patch on the oryx. Enjoyed at the distinctly German themed Hotel EuropaHof in Swakopmund, it was the last bit of game meat to grace my taste buds.

As usual, this guy was accompanied by roast vegetables and a hefty serving of melted butter into which I could dip said vegetables. Not a bad meal by any stretch, and it went great with a red wine I am too classless to know the name of.

I’ve admitted before – I’m something of a wine virgin.

The Others

I did also sample a little zebra, crocodile (which I’ve had on a few occasions in Australia), and ostrich while I was in Namibia. I didn’t have enough of any to be able to give a definitive opinion on them though.

Maybe during my upcoming trip to Kenya I can check off the missing ones at Carnivore?

Do I Feel Guilty?

A few of my (vegetarian) friends have asked me if I felt bad about eating such beautiful animals.

I’ll admit, there was a little reticence on my part to eat an oryx or impala. They’re so beautiful!

But at the end of the day, if I’m okay with eating one kind of meat, I don’t see any reason why I should balk at eating another kind of meat. As long as it is humanely killed and not endangered, it would be grossly ethnocentric of me to condemn one kind of meat while happily eating another.

…it would be grossly ethnocentric of me to condemn one kind of meat while happily eating another.

I won’t go out of my way to eat game meat every time I see it, but you better believe I’ll be having another oryx steak if the opportunity presents itself. It might have usurped kangaroo as my favourite meat.

Your Say

Have you eaten game meat before?

Would you if given the opportunity?

If you wouldn’t give it a go, why not?

Destinations, Namibia
A moving memorial to Namibian independence looks out over WIndhoek's bright future.

Welcome to Windhoek

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One of the perks of working for a safari company (of which there are quite a few) has been being invited on famils and press trips to other countries to Africa looking to expand their customer base.

When my boss at Shadows of Africa asked me if I would be interested in representing them at the annual Namibian Tourism Expo, I leaped at the opportunity. After reading about other people’s adventures in this starkly beautiful country, I was eager to explore it for myself.

And so it was that my Chinese trip ended not with a direct flight to Tanzania, but with a very welcome detour via this beautiful southern African country.

Over the next few weeks I’ll be sharing my adventures exploring Sossusvlei, going on a desert safari, falling in love with Swakopmund, sandboarding in the Namib Desert, going on safari in Etosha National Park, and more.

A big thanks to Shadows of Africa, the Namibian Tourism Board, and Pack Safari for such a fantastic opportunity.

A moving memorial to Namibian independence looks out over WIndhoek's bright future.
A moving memorial to Namibian independence looks out over WIndhoek and the nation’s bright future.

Arriving in Windhoek

After the long flight from Shanghai (via Ethiopia and Johannesburg), I was picked up at the airport and whisked off to my Windhoek accommodations, Moni Pension.

I’ll save the full-blown review for my TripAdvisor, but Moni was acceptable accommodation. It had dodgy WiFi, a dirty pool, and an only somewhat functional bathroom, but this was countered by a comfortable bed and a pretty damned good breakfast spread with bottomless coffee. Both a Godsend when you are spending all day out and about.

Having arrived too late to join them for dinner, I didn’t meet my travel companions until early the net morning: Caren the bubbly Oregon hippie, Don the well-traveled and well-educated East Coast California transplant, and warm and enthusiastic Astrid from Seychelles.

All of us were in Namibia representing different tour companies, but Don also maintains a fascinating blog entitled Adventure Transformations that I’d thoroughly recommend.

Introductions done and friendships beginning to take shape, it was time to get started.

Don, Astrid, myself, Caren, and our guide, Stefan enjoying the Namib Desert.
Don, Astrid, myself, Caren, and our guide, Stefan enjoying the Namib Desert.

The 2015 Namibian Tourism Expo

Our first two days in Windhoek would not be spent exploring it, sadly, but we did get to have a good time and meet some great people at the Namibian Tourism Expo. We spent our first day at a fun speed-networking event and the second paying a visit to the Namibian Tourism Expo proper.

Day 1 – Networking

Despite being perennially single and an experienced online dater, I’ve actually never been speed-dating. When the speed networking event organiser told us that “it’s just like speed dating”, that wasn’t a whole lot of us to me.

But by the end of 4-5 hours, I’d met some of the movers and shakers of Namibian tourism as well as quite a few tour operators from around the world. I chatted at length with a Chinese tourism agency about the things we missed most about China, shot the shit about Dubai with another guy, and got to have a good chat with the irrepressible Birgit from Ultimate Safaris.

It was also an inundation of information. I left with a head buzzing with information and a little red backpack so stuffed with pamphlets, business cards, and info packs that my boss still hasn’t gotten around to reviewing them all two months later.

Day 2 – The Namibian Tourism Expo

Ostensibly the reason for our presence in Windhoek, I was a bit surprised to find that we were actually leaving town before the official opening of the festival. Instead, we attended the media and exhibitioner day which amounted to a buffet spread of finger food, a hell of a lot of speeches delivered by nervous minor political figures, and a rushed tour of what few exhibitors were open for the evening.

Caren and I, the ‘young whipper-snappers’ of our group, rushed around trying to see and do as much as possible. We enjoyed a glass of wine with the manager of the Protea hotel, made friends with the manager of a white water rafting company, and donned silly hats for the launch of Gondwana’s upcoming Swakopmund property.

It wasn’t a particularly informative or networking appropriate visit, but as my first travel & tourism expo, it was certainly an eye-opener.

A Windhoek Day Tour

While our visit to Windhoek also included some fantastic restaurants that I’ll comment on in my next entry, the highlight of our three days in the Namibian capital was a half-day tour of the historic city.

With our knowledgeable guide Stefan guiding the way, we paid a visit to some of the city’s most historic buildings and districts.

Our first port of call was the Christuskirche, a beautiful 105 year old Lutheran church situated on a hill that overlooks the city. I’m a real sucker for churches and the architecture that religious belief has inspired, so I had a good time snapping pictures of the stained glass, the marble altar, and the interesting contrast of tropical palms next to very European architecture.

The picturesque Christuskirche is one of Windhoek's most well-known landmarks.
The picturesque Christuskirche is one of Windhoek’s most well-known landmarks.
Some of the beautiful stained glass within the Christuskirche.
Some of the beautiful stained glass within the Christuskirche.

Just across the road from this quaint place of worship is the Namibian Memorial Museum, a titanic golden monstrosity built by the North Koreans to commemorate Namibian independence. It is an eyesore of a building for such a solemn and proud occasion, and in stark contrast to the humble church it casts its long shadow over.

The futuristic Memorial Museum is certainly eye-catching.
The futuristic Memorial Museum is certainly eye-catching.

Our journey through Namibia’s often bloody history continued as we stopped by Alte Feste (Old Fortress), a German colonial fortress that harkens to the days when Africa had been subdivided by warring European powers. While here Stefan regaled us with stories of the nation’s first white settlers and the transition to Namibia’s status as a modern, dynamic country.

Alte Feste (Old Fortress) cuts a rather striking figure atop the hills overlooking modern WIndhoek.
Alte Feste (Old Fortress) cuts a rather striking figure atop the hills overlooking modern WIndhoek.

From here it was a quick trip past the Ink Palace and the Parliamentary Gardens, which I’d have sorely loved to explore with a camera and a good book. They looked positively serene!

The delightfully appealing Parliamentary Gardens. I could have spent an entire day just relaxing in this shady haven.
The delightfully appealing Parliamentary Gardens. I could have spent an entire day just relaxing in this shady haven.

Our last stop would be Katatura, a former township whose name literally translates into: place where we do not want to be. While townships conjure up images of abject poverty and South African-style apartheid, we were stunned by what a colourful and vibrant area this former township had become.

“Years ago, you would not have been safe driving through here,” Stefan told us proudly, “Now you see how happy everybody is”.

He wasn’t kidding. Everywhere we looked were brightly painted houses and smiling faces. It was not at all what I pictured, and is a testament to Namibia’s remarkable steps towards greater equality.

Why Windhoek?

Like Arusha in Tanzania, Windhoek is more gateway than tourism destination in its own right.

It certainly has a charm all of its own, this melting pot of African cultures and German colonial architecture. Its quaint markets and oddly-named streets (“Take a left on Fidel Castro, and then continue straight along Mugabe Avenue”) are something that is sure to catch the eye.

But people don’t travel to Namibia for its adorable capital. It’s where you land before heading off to Etosha, Sossusvlei, or Swakopmund.

It’s definitely worth a day tour and maybe a couple of nights to tackle some of its fantastic restaurants, though.

Your Say

Have you ever been to Namibia’s quaint capital?

China, Life and Love on the Road, Nanjing
Believe it or not, there are people to talk to offline as well!

Homecoming: A Tour of Nanjing’s Best Bars

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When Last We Talked…

…I’d finished a whistle-stop tour of Beijing that had included a walking tour of Beijing’s hutongs, falling in love with Jingshan Park, hiking the wild wall, and searching for the best Beijing duck in Beijing.

After a 5am wake-up and a 7 am train ride, I found myself in considerably more familiar surrounds: my old stomping grounds in Nanjing.

It was a surreal thing to be riding through streets I’d come to know so well that they had become background noise to me. Was that tower always there? Or had it sprung up in the nine or ten months since I’d left?

Was the greenery I was seeing a new thing? Or had my eyes simply become accustomed to it?

By the time I pulled up outside the Novotel Nanjing East, I was caught in a surreal middle ground between nostalgia and a feeling of everything being new again.

It’s not the first time I’ve felt this way. My return to Busan and Gwangju in 2013 had felt similarly strange. A mixture of the familiar and the unfamiliar that was at once confronting and enchanting.

Still, I had no time for introspective navel-gazing. I had a full three and a half days of boozy catching up to get to!

So, after a long shower and some scrumptious room service Korean, it was time to get to ‘work’!

And by 'work', I mean getting drunk with cool people.
And by ‘work’, I mean getting drunk with cool people.

The Base(s) of Operation

I was lucky enough to partner with Novotel for my return to Nanjing, with a night in their idyllic Nanjing East Location before moving into the beating heart of Nanjing for three nights at their Novotel Nanjing Central hotel.

In both cases, I was treated to a spacious room, a deliciously comfortable bed, a heavenly rainwater shower, and access to room service, a concierge desk for booking onward travel, and a few on-site restaurants. There were also gyms at both locations and even a pool at the Novotel East.

My heavenly bed at Nanjing Novotel Central.
My heavenly bed at Nanjing Novotel Central.

Of course, being in town for boozing and catch ups, I did not avail myself of either…

Both hotels are business hotels, which puts them somewhat outside my usual flashpacker budget, but not so much so that they aren’t a viable option for a night or two of comfort. Given Nanjing’s lack of good backpacker hostels and low price accommodation that isn’t filthy, I was more than happy to pay for a few nights of comfort.

In a straight up battle of quality: Novotel Nanjing East had a nicer, more peaceful location, better on-site restaurants, and a fantastic room service menu that featured authentic Korean food. Central’s room service menu, limited to a few $10 sandwiches and burgers, left a little to be desired.

The aforementioned Korean feast for a reasonable $15
The aforementioned Korean feast for a reasonable $15

That being said, unless you have business out in Nanjing’s Xianlin area, Novotel Nanjing Central is a better bet. It’s a tad noisy being in the heart of the trendy Xinjekou area, but you can’t beat its location for convenience.

Night One: Jimmy’s

For a budget traveler, Jimmy’s prices might seem a bit steep. You’re looking at around $7 for a beer outside of happy hour, but as an expat it was always a favourite. With multiple TVs showing sports from around the world, a huge selection of beers on tap, and some great food deals including wings, pizza, burgers, ribs, Mexican, and steaks – it’s the quintessential western sports bar hangout.

Just a sample of the sizable selection of beers available at Jimmy's.
Just a sample of the sizable selection of beers available at Jimmy’s.

I was met at the bar by a few of my favourite Nanjing peeps: Aussie Dutchy, South African Ally, English Welsh Hoggy, New Yorker Hani, and an old crush who shall remain nameless to protect the innocent.

What followed was a suitably boozy return to Nanjing as I ran up a $100 bill (no mean feat in China), did more shots than I can poke a stick at, met another guy who had chosen to come to Nanjing after reading my blog (and collected a few free drinks as thank you), and finished the night with terrible pool in an empty backpackers that has yet to open.

There might also have been romance, but a gentleman never tells. Except with not-so-obscure hints.

Jimmy’s Sports Bar: The most well-known of Nanjing’s bars. Jimmy’s is an old-school American style sports bar with multiple screens, a huge variety of beers on tap, good spirits, and a great menu of American bar favourites. It’s pricier than the average bar, but just about the only place in town for watching sport. Jimmy (the owner) and Pete (the manager) are top blokes too.

Night Two: Talking #2

Nursing a hangover that not even delicious hole-in-the-wall Vietnamese food could cure, I stumbled to my old haunt: Talking #2. Located just across the road from my former place of employment, Talking is a popular boozing spot for students studying at the nearby universities. As a member of the Nanjing Nongmin cricket club, I still enjoyed my discount on beers and sank quite a few $2 Tsingtao before it was time for dinner.

I’ll forever associate Talking with my time in China. In the winter it’s a cozy nook to escape the cold and rain, and in the spring & summer its outdoor tables are a great place for people watching, new girl ogling, and ice cold beers.

My good mate enjoying a beer while reclining on his motorbike.
My good mate enjoying a beer while reclining on his motorbike.

I honestly can’t count how many nights of my life in China were spent at T2.

Talking #2: A locally owned chain of bars, Talking has a whole bunch of locations (I believe they’re up to #8 or #9 now), but Talking #2 will always be my favourite. Located on Shanghai Road across from the Mandarin Garden hotel, it has cheap drinks and cheap eats. Its proximity to the universities makes it especially popular with students.

Night Three: Words

I’d planned a quiet night in prepartion for the Nanking Nation Party Bus in honour of my last night in town, but smooth-talking Hani wasn’t having that. All New York swagger with a dab of Barney Stinson, he had me navigating a maze of hutongs to find a hole in the wall cocktail bar he loved.

Myself, Hani, and two of the coolest girls in the universe.
Myself, Hani, and two of the coolest girls in the universe.

I’m glad he did too, as Words was a hell of a lot of fun.

Handing over a fistful of notes and asking for the ‘Hani Special’, we then sat back as Elliot whipped us up exquisite cocktail after exquisite cocktail, tailoring each of them so that they complemented the previous. For three blurry hours we sipped on delicious cocktails, threw back potent shots, and even sampled a little authentic absinthe straight out of Europe.

Joined by an ex-girlfriend, her new squeeze, and some friends who had made the trek over from Shanghai for the occasion, what had been planned as a quiet night ended with 4am McDonalds.

Good times.

Words: One of Nanjing’s better kept secrets (shh!), Words is a tiny bar hidden away in the hutongs behind the popular 1912 district. The owner, a Frenchman named Elliot, is a really cool guy who knows how to make amazing cocktails. Also worth checking out is the bar’s in-house collection of infused vodkas. I believe there are sixteen varieties! Definitely a place I’ll be hanging out at more often if I ever return to Nanjing.

Night Four: Brewsell’s, Florentina, Bubba’s, Jimmy’s, and Psycho Cats Paradise with NKN

My last night in town and country was always going to be a big one.

After arriving early at Brewell’s for a bite to eat and some good quality Belgian beers, it was time to board the party bus.

We made our first stop at Jimmy’s for their first ever beach party, where we found a mountain of sand, a few wading bools, Grand Marnier slushies, and a bunch of drinks specials. Between ensuring everybody got their free shot of cinammon infused vodka, catching up with old acquaintances, and participating in (and losing, to my great shame) a boat race in the car park, it was all a bit of a blur.

Preparing to captain my team in a boat race.
Preparing to captain my team in a boat race.

From there it was on to Bubba’s, a new Texan themed bar in the trendy Chic Hills development. My old pal Merim manages the place, but it was so busy with all of us there that I had to make do with a hug, a few boat races, and some amazing pulled pork sandwiches.

Next was Florentina, one of the many great hole in the wall bars in Nanjing. With a massive selection of craft beers from all over the world, it a cramped but thoroughly enjoyable visit.

A small sample of Florentina's beer selection.
A small sample of Florentina’s beer selection.

And finally we stopped off at Psycho Cat’s Paradise, a new night club boasting both house and hip-hop rooms in the bowels of Nanjing’s Wutaishan (Youth) Olympic Stadium. Clubs aren’t my scene, so I made do with sharing a cigarette (don’t tell Mum) and flirting with another old crush out in the car park.

4am McDonalds. Alarm set for 10am. My night ended.

Brewsell’s: Fantastic Belgian bar on the corner of Shanghai Lu and Guangzhou Lu. With a good selection of import (mostly European) beers and some great Belgian beer, it’s got a really fun chill vibe and runs occasional events such as trivia competitions and a Foosball league.

Bubba’s: A new addition to the Nanjing scene, this Texas style steakhouse and bar has a huge space in the new Chic Hills complex. A great menu of American and Tex-Mex cuisine and staff in cowboy get ups make it feel like something very different to the average Nanjing bar. One I’ll need to get back to and do justice to.

Florentina: Located roughly halfway between Brewsell’s and Hankou Xi Lu, Florentina lies up an uphill side street on the right side of Shanghai Lu. It’s a tiny little bar dominated by a piano and a shelf with dozens of different craft beers. A great place to take a date who appreciates a good craft beer.

Psycho Cat’s Paradise: A new club from the guy behind such Nanjing institutions as Bassment and Don Quixote, Psycho Cat’s Paradise has two distinct areas: a hip-hop club and a trance-house club. I’m not a huge fan of clubs, but locals and expats alike seem to love it. Regularly gets in guest DJs from both China and abroad.

 Another Goodbye

After a hungover brunch at Element Fresh with Hani and Ting Ting, it was time to pack my bags and head off to Shanghai for my lengthy trek across to Namibia.

Ominous skies over Shanghai.
Ominous skies over Shanghai.

Revisiting Nanjing was a lot of fun. It was a chance to rekindle old friendships and romances, build on friendships that were interrupted by my departure last year, and to renew my love affair with expat life in China.

Will I be back in the future? I dare say I will. I have unfinished business with China.

Your Say

Is there a place from your travels that has its claws in you? What makes it so hard to leave behind?