Destinations
mount fuji chureito pagoda

5 Countries I’m Dying to Visit in 2017

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2016 in Review

2016 proved to be an unexpectedly big year for me on the travel front. Not only did I make the big move back to China and fall head over heels for a fellow travel blogger, I also managed to make it to ten countries in a year I’d planned to be ‘a quiet one’.

I fell in love with Taiwan, spent a fantastic ten days exploring Malaysian Borneo, lived the luxury life in the Maldives, toured four African countries, revisited Singapore, spent three weeks relaxing in The Philippines, and embarked on the five-week Great US Road Trip.

Places I’m Dying to Visit in 2017

Already in 2017, I’ve made a quick jaunt across to South Korea, spent two weeks exploring gorgeous Sumatra, and spent a week learning more about Lingshui, Hainan.

That doesn’t mean I’m done, though! Here are five countries I’m dying to visit (or revisit) in 2017.

#5 – Indonesia

It may seem odd that I’ve only just returned from my ten day exploration of Sumatra (in which I managed to break my arm) and I’m still including Indonesia on my list, but people often forget just how big the archipelago is.

My travels thus far have taken me to Sumatra, the Komodo Islands, and Lombok – but there’s still a lot of Australia’s northern neighbour that I’d love to explore someday.

Bali is arguably Australia’s favourite foreign playground, and while I’m not a huge fan of its crowds of singlet wearing bogans, I wouldn’t feel right having never seen it.

For those less crowded places in Indonesia, there is a wealth of spots still needing to be explored. There’s the idyllic backpacker paradise of Gili Trawanagan near Lombok, the volcanic islands of East Java, a chance to revisit and scuba dive the Komodo Islands, the temptation to take a longer Sumatran orangutan trek, and more.

The country’s capital, Jakarta, has a rich history that makes it worth exploring. Borobodur, a historic temple, is one of the landmarks that should be included in your itinerary.

Then there’s Raja Ampat in the nation’s south – an isolated haven for scuba divers and those willing to forego creature comforts in exchange for genuine peace and quiet.

#4 – Ethiopia

The only entry on this list that I know for sure I will get to in 2016, Ethiopia is a nation that has long fascinated me and that I am thrilled to have the opportunity to explore next May. CNN Travel certainly agree that Ethiopia is one of the world’s best tourism destinations.

Distinct from its neighbouring countries, Ethiopia has a really intriguing blend of Christian and Muslim historical sites that makes it a great place for lovers of history. With a unique landscape of craggy mountains and open plains, there’s an alien appeal to the country.

Bustling Addis Ababa (home to arguably the worst airport I’ve ever had to kill time in) might not be of huge appeal to me, but there’s a melting pot of cultures and beliefs on display here that exists in stark contrast to the unflinching beauty of ancient Lalibela, where Christianity’s history is preserved as something wildly different to the religion as it exists today.

lalibela crucifix
Historic Lalibela shows Christianity as it was in a bygone era. Image courtesy of Wojtek Ogrodowczyk

Ethiopia is also a safari destination, and seeing animals new and old against a new backdrop is always a thrill.

#3 – Japan

I’ve technically already been to Japan, but I’m certain my three day visa run to Fukuoka in 2009 really didn’t do this ancient country justice.

mount fuji chureito pagoda
Cherry blossoms, pagodas, and Mount Fuji. Most Japanese image ever? Image courtesy of Reginald Pentinlo.

I want to walk cherry blossom strewn streets, sing myself hoarse in boozy karaoke bars, marvel at the high-tech gadgets and bizarrely dressed students, visit historic sites such as Hiroshima, enjoy a moment’s quiet contemplating at a shrine, attend a J-League game, and just embrace the zany fusion of western and eastern ideals that has made Japan such a fascinating place.

Oh, and I want to eat all of the sushi.

All.

Of.

It.

On a more serious note, there’s also an academic region I’d like to spend more time in Japan. Having lived in two countries with a decidedly negative view of Japan, I’m also eager to better understand how the Japanese people view their role in 20th century history and how this compares to Chinese and Korean recollections of events.

#2 – Peru

South America remains the one inhabited continent that continues to elude me, and it was hard as hell choosing just one country to include on the list.

In the end, the lure of Machu Picchu was just too great to ignore. I’ve long been fascinated with Incan culture, and visiting its most famed historic site would be a real thrill.

machu picchu
Definitely one for the bucket list. Image courtesy of Guillan Perez.

Of course, there’s far more to Peru than just Machu Picchu.

There’s the vastness of the Amazon, the mysterious Nazca Lines that the X-Files fan in me is obsessed with seeing, beaches, mountains, and everything in between.

There’s also the pretty girls and the pisco sour too. Can’t overlook that.

#1 – Iceland

It’s perhaps become a bit of a cliche among travel bloggers to talk about Iceland, but the obsession with this beautiful country is certainly warranted.

Every photo I see and every story I read paints such a tempting picture.

northern lights visit iceland
The northern lights have long been a bucket list item of mine.

Where do I even start?

There’s the world-famous Blue Lagoon where a thousand thousand selfies have been taken.

There’s the opportunity to scuba dive the tectonic plate between two continents.

There’s the many Golden Circle tours that cover one of the most visually stunning countries in the world.

There’s the unique blend of arctic and volcanic landscapes that seems like something out of science fiction.

There are the northern lights and one of the best views of them you’re ever likely to find.

There’s the road trip to Iceland that satisfies both the fantastical (the views) and practical (driving a campervan and keeping up with Iceland’s unpredictable weather).

With my 2016 travels taking me to Sweden, I might just need to extend my trip a little so that I can fit a little more of Europe in, and you’d best believe that Iceland will be the first country on my dance card if that happens.

Your Say

What five countries are you dying to visit in 2016?

iceland visit in 2016

New England, Travel Writing
ben lomond new england sunset

“How Do You Open a Toilet?”

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To describe the village in which I grew up in as ‘sleepy’ would perhaps paint too lively a picture. Even a sleeping person rolls over or talks in their sleep on occasion.

In fact, technically even describing it as a village is a stretch. By the dictionary definition, Ben Lomond only qualifies for hamlet status.

Despite all of this, I love this peaceful little mountain escape, so I was pleasantly surprised when the local newsletter asked me to attend an upcoming event and write something about it.

That event: the grand opening of a new toilet block at the local memorial hall.

“How do you open a toilet?”

It’s not a question I ever thought I’d hear asked out loud, but that’s precisely what the members of the Memorial Hall Committee had to ask themselves upon completion of the $60,000 addition of new amenities at the Ben Lomond Memorial Hall.

People might drive through Ben Lomond and think that describing it as ‘sleepy’ might be an understatement, but some of my fondest memories of growing up in the area since 1995 have been these periodic gatherings that epitomise the very best about country living – cold beers, hearty food, a good yarn, and a sense of community and inclusion that can often be hard to find in larger centres.

It’s certainly a sense of community that is often hard to find when you’re on the road full time.

Christmas parties, weddings, fundraisers, and snow days have all turned Ben Lomond’s most recognisable landmark into a hive of activity and good cheer on occasion, so it stands to reason that the answer to the question:

How do you open a toilet?

Would be:

Have a party!

While a Christmas party or a wedding comes with its own set of traditions and decorations, the grand opening of a new toilet block and entrance needed something special.

The hard work of the committee paid dividends, turning our humble hall into a cultural melting pot as Ben Lomond played host to close to 150 people. That’s quadruple the village’s usual population!

The most noticeable guests were the Tongan contingent, taking a break from their hard work at the Guyra tomato farm to entertain and delight with cultural dancing and delicious traditional foods.

It was a surreal moment to stand beneath the setting sun on a warm spring afternoon as more than a dozen Tongan men put on a show of dancing and singing. Who’d have thought they’d ever stand in Ben Lomond and hear such things while shoulder to shoulder with a foursome of Taiwanese kids watching on with wide-eyed enthusiasm?

ben lomond new england sunset
A crowd gathers at sunset to watch the Tongan dance performance.

Twirling home-made spears and chanting rhythmically, the men beguiled the crowd while the ladies shouted support from the crowd. In a village often remarked on for its quietness, it was something special to hear these triumphant yawps and see this fascinating display. A journey to the heart of the Pacific without ever having to leave the New England.

tongan dance

The performance done, the Tongans put on a traditional Tongan feast the likes of which the village had never seen. Thick cuts of pork and lamb donated by locals were served alongside such exotic flavours (at least to the average New England palate) as taro and tapioca, and all were followed by a Ben Lomond tradition of delicious, home-made desserts supplied by the local ladies.

It was a festive atmosphere both inside the hall and out, with tables full and spirits high. Like a mead hall out of medieval tales, the hall was transformed into a raucous place of warmth and gregariousness as old friendships were renewed and new ones were forged over beers and meat carved off the bone.

It was the kind of night that shows just why Ben Lomond is such a special place. After twenty countries and eight years on the road, it still feels like coming home whenever the car crests that last hill and the beautiful little village unfolds before me.

It’s that community and sense of closeness that, while not always on show, is readily apparent any time the community comes together in celebration or commiseration.

How do you open a toilet?

You do it the old-fashioned country way: you include everybody, make sure there’s plenty of meat, get the local women to prepare some scrumptious desserts, add beer, and let the rest take care of itself.

australian beers
I brought a few friends along to the party.

Your Say

Do you ever take the time to experience the local culture when you’re taking a break from the road?

What traditions make your home town special?

Destinations, Hong Kong
century egg hong kong

Unusual Eating in Hong Kong

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I’ve technically been to Hong Kong, but a stamp in my passport and 12 hours in a comped hotel after my flight was delayed hardly seems like it should count. Not being qualified to speak on the matter of dining in Hong Kong, I’ve enlisted my friend Rohit to share some of his favourite unusual foods from Hong Kong.

One thing I do love is trying strange or unusual eating options wherever I go. Don’t believe me? Check out my post on the Strangest Foods in the World.

Unusual Eating in Hong Kong

You’ve seen the sights of Hong Kong and it’s time to head out for a meal. It’s easy to eat like a tourist, but hidden in the maelstrom of sights and sounds, lies a deeper culinary delight – the food of the locals. Below, you’ll find seven of the most intriguing and delicious Hong Kong food hotspots.

  1. Lab Made – Try the world’s weirdest ice cream

French toast ice cream. This incredible concoction from Hong Kong’s Lab Made uses the power of liquid nitrogen to freeze desserts into the most amazing ice cream flavours. You can enjoy this gastronomic scientific experiment made right before your eyes. While the menu does change often that’s part of the charm of this odd eatery. Common flavour bases include malted soy milk, tofu pudding and egg custard bun but the mystery adds to the experience so check it out.

lab made hong kong
Delicious desserts at Lab Made.

Try it at: Shop G42, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132-134T Nathan Road, Hong Kong.

  1. Shui Wah Restaurant – Roast Pigeon Delight

The humble pigeon does not usually bring to mind a flavour so mouth-watering that it must be ordered, but Hong Kong isn’t your average culinary destination. This roast pigeon, accompanied by crisp and tasty shrimp chips on the side, leads the excellent menu here at this two story eatery. Don’t be fooled by their size, these are easily shared and with a juicy and tender meat it’s a Hong Kong treat that must be tried.

Editor’s Note: I actually tried roast pigeon while in Xinjiang. It wasn’t for me, but my travel buddy said it reminded her of duck – albeit on a smaller scale.

Roast Pigeon Hong Kong
Roast pigeon is a delicacy in China and Hong Kong.

Try it at: 51 Tsuen Nam Road, Tai Wai

  1. Delicious Food – Sink Your Teeth into Stinky Tofu

Stinky Tofu – sounds like one of the most inedible foods on offer. The reality though is that it is a one of a kind Hong Kong experience. Left to ferment in brine long term, the tofu is then deep fried for a few minutes upon order, which significantly reduces the smell. The crisp and golden texture that result are incredible. If you love sampling local gems like durian or fish paste, then this is for you. Even if you’re not so adventurous, you should give this a go anyway – it is absolutely an unusual Hong Kong highlight.

Tip – If the scent still overpowers you then try adding either spicy, sweet or mustard sauce to mellow out the smell of your delicious golden tofu cube.

Stinky Tofu
Apparently it tastes infinitely better than it smells. The same cannot be said for durian.

Editor’s Note: I’m actually ashamed to say that I never did try stinky tofu during my two and a half years in China. It was everywhere in Nanjing, but the smell just kept me at arm’s length.

Try it at: Delicious Food, shop 10, G/F, 30-32 Nullah Road, Prince Edward, Hong Kong.

  1. Tung Po Kitchen – Dive Deep into Squid Ink Spaghetti

You’ll be surrounded by locals, both young and old, which is a sure fire sign of a Hong Kong hole in the wall classic. Located above a vibrant wet market full of fish and meats, this unique eatery does a squid ink dish that will blow your mind. This mildly salty meal comes with a buttery al dente pasta that bursts with flavour. It might not be the colour of your usual meal, but with flavour like this it soon might be. Try the squid ink spaghetti with cuttlefish for just $14 ($108 Hong Kong Dollars), offering great value for money.

squid ink spaghetti
With a distinctive colouration, squid ink spaghetti is a remarkably delicious dish. Photo by Two Hungry Dudes.

Editor’s Note: One of my favourite dishes in Nanjing was the squid ink paella that they served at the criminally good Seleccion Espanol. The colour may be off-putting, but the new taste the ink adds is to die for.

Try it at: Java Road Municipal Services Building, 99 Java Rd, North Point, Hong Kong

  1. Shia Wong Hip – Sip on Snake Soup

Snake soup is widely considered a gourmet dish in Hong Kong despite the confronting nature of its name. You can find snake meat delivered fresh from China but for a really unique experience seek out Shia Wong Hip where live snakes can be selected on site. You pick them, they prepare them. Confronting at first but you wouldn’t think twice about selecting a fresh lobster and this is no different. This delicious soup comes with the shredded snake in the bowl and with minimal fat on the meat you’re doing your waistline a favour. Seated in a traditional Chinese setting with a scattering of tables, this is one Hong Kong meal that you’ll remember.

snake soup
Don’t worry, those aren’t tiny snakes in your soup – just strips of snake meat!

Try it at: 170 Apliu Street, Hong Kong

  1. Yung Kee – Consume a 1000-year-old Egg

It’s not official but chowing down on a thousand year egg all but makes you an honorary Hong Konger. Not for the faint of heart, these come in the form of either a quail or duck egg, which are then buried in clay, sand and a salted mixture for a few months, which causes their insides to turn to jelly. By the time it reaches your table the yolk has become a dark green and comes with a pungent smell that goes hand in hand with months underground. A delicacy to be found on Hong Kong’s many street stalls, sitting at Yung Kee’s and digging in to the restaurants signature dish is a Hong Kong dining experience to be savoured.

century egg hong kong
Sometimes known as a ‘century egg’, they’re not quite that old. Photo by Alpha.

Try it at: 32-40 Wellington Street | Central, Hong Kong

  1. Kei Kee Dessert Shop – Dessert Delights Done Right

These Chinese style desserts are done so right at Kei Kee’s in Hong Kong. A simple décor with wooden tables spread out over the sidewalk, but it’s the signature grass jelly dish that you’re there for. Although Kei Kee has a full menu of street side snacks and drinks, so there’s something for everyone. The nitty gritty of your dessert comes from a boiled and simmered stalk of the mint family which becomes grass jelly. The Kei Kee version adds condensed milk and a beautiful fruit salad, and it is perfect for sharing between friends. Bittersweet in the best possible way and wobbling on your plate as if its shaking with excitement, this is the ultimate Hong Kong dessert for those with a sweet tooth.

kei kee dessert
An iconic Chinese dessert, Kei Kee (or Kai Kee) is similar to Korean patbingsu. Photo from Lychee Travel.

Try it at: Shop 7, Chi Fu Centre, Yuen Long

From the diplomatically different to the downright weird, Hong Kong is the king of strange but delicious cuisine. Whether you’re stopping by for a day or staying long term and looking to try something new, there is always something new and delicious to try. So get out on the streets, prepare your palate and eat Hong Kong style.

To indulge in this extraordinary culinary adventure, Cathay Pacific offers plenty of flights to Hong Kong from across the world!

Travel Tips
koh lanta beach

6 Quick and Dirty Budget Travel Tips

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In light of my recent collaborative post about the many excuses not to travel that people peddle out, I thought I’d focus on one that I hear the most: travel is expensive.

Yes, it’s true that travel can be expensive.

Yes, it’s also true that my own travels are at least partially funded by working with tourism boards and brands.

But a big part of why I am able to travel so much is that I have learned a few budget travel tips over the years that work for me. I first shared a post about this back in 2012, and I like to think I’ve learned a few extra things over the years.

I won’t bore you with a mathematical breakdown of my spending or every step of my process, so here are five quick (and not-so-dirty) tips that have helped me to save a bit of money. I’m not a budget travel expert by any stretch, but even a broken clock is right twice a day, right?

#6 – Eat Local

I get it: sometimes you’ve been on the road so long that you’d murder for a Big Mac or a greasy pizza. There’s nothing wrong with the occasional indulgence.

You’d be surprised just how much you save by avoiding the western restaurants and crowded tourist areas, and by dining where the locals dine, you’re likely to save a pretty penny, eat some delicious local cuisine, and have a more immersive dining experience.

panang curry
While in Koh Lanta, I managed to get a delicious Panang Curry for just $2 by walking an extra couple of blocks. The price by the beach? $7

Really, if you’re only going to listen to one piece of advice from this list, I would urge you to make it this one. The food as locals eat it is just about the best window into a culture you can get, and you’ll save a small fortune while also supporting local businesses who actually need your money.

#5 – Shop around for flights

This one really is budget travel 101. Don’t just go to an airline website, key in your dates, and hope for a fair price. The smart thing to do is check as many sites as possible. Nomadic Matt wrote a fantastic article on travel hacking, but my basics are as follows:

  • Go to a site that compares airlines such as Skyscanner or Momondo.
  • Find the lowest fare that meets your needs. Check out the airline’s site and see if they have it any cheaper.
  • Check for alternate ports of entry.
  • Check for flights on different days.
  • Look at breaking up your flight(s). If you need to get to Arusha in Tanzania, it might be easier to fly to Nairobi or Dar Es Salam.
plane kilimanjaro
Flying over Kilimanjaro en route to Entebbe in Uganda.

Matt’s own article covers this in much better detail, but even doing the above steps saved me a few hundred dollars. On my recent trip to Thailand, it was actually cheaper for me to fly from Shanghai to Hong Kong, Hong Kong to Bangkok, and Bangkok to Phuket than it was to get a single, direct ticket.

#4 – Have a money withdrawal and management strategy

Managing your money when you’re on the road can be a real headache.

Do you pull cash out at the local ATMs and cop a transaction fee every time? Do you convert a huge amount to local currency and pray it doesn’t get stolen? Do you pre-load a visa debit card and bring it with you?

What if you’ve got income coming in while you’re abroad? How do you access it without losing big chunks of it to international transfer fees and currency conversion charges?

travelsumo infographic

I’ve found that prepaid visa cards are a great way of not only dodging huge withdrawal fees while abroad, but have the added benefit of giving you a strict budget to follow and being able to be pre-loaded with the local currency.

When it comes to transferring money abroad, businesses like Transumo are a great way to avoid the usual bank fees. Even PayPal, which I use myself, takes a substantial slice of the pie when you’re moving money about too often.

Short of tucking all you’ve earned abroad into your underpants and converting it when you get home, international money transfer businesses might be your best bet.

#3 – Look beyond hotels

There was a time when staying in a hotel was pretty much a traveller’s only option if they didn’t feel up to camping. But these days your options are a little more diverse than ‘hotel’ or ‘cheap hotel’. Not exactly conducive to budget travel.

But with sites like Couchsurfing you’re able to secure free accommodation and meet fellow travellers in the process. I’ve hosted multiple surfers in my life, and have even had the pleasure of some fun couchsurfing experiences in Shanghai a time or two.

Don’t feel like stretching out on a potentially uncomfortable sofa and dealing with foot traffic? That’s where the likes of AirBnB come in. Using AirBnB, it’s possible to secure everything from a room to a full apartment to an entire home, and the rates are often lower than what local hotels are going to charge you. I recently used AirBnB to secure a spacious apartment in the heart of Bangkok for roughly half of what local hotels were offering, and I’ve used it extensively in Australia, the US, and China as well.

Then there’s the humble hostel. Sites like Hostel Bookers have made it even easier to search the hostels in a town to find reviews and rates quickly and painlessly. Hostels are a fun alternative if you’re on a budget and don’t mind sharing space, but many hostels also offer relatively comfortable private rooms. Capsule hostels, like The Drum in Beijing, offer dorm style sleeping arrangements with the added privacy of your own space.

And I wouldn’t go so far as to say rule out the humble hotel altogether. Sides like Wotif and Agoda are a great way to scour the internet for the very best rates you can find. I scored two weeks of beach accommodation in southern Thailand for around $250 just by comparing prices and booking early.

#2 – Go off the beaten track

The urge to dine with princesses at California Adventure or spend a 24 hours in New York City is always going to be there, but sometimes the budget just doesn’t quite live up to the daydream. Rather than let the discrepancy between reality and daydream get in the way of a good holiday, it’s time to bend a little bit.

Oh sure, you could put it on credit card and let Future Chris worry about it – or you could think outside the box, save your money, and still have a great time. Sometimes, budget travel has to be about making a compromise or two.

koh lanta beach
Getting away from Phuket and Koh Phi Phi, I followed a friend’s advise and had Koh Lanta virtually to myself.

Chances are, unless you’ve won the lottery or have a sugar daddy, you won’t be able to afford every single attraction you’d ideally like to hit. So think outside the box! It could be as simple as opting for off-Broadway instead of Broadway, or it could be as drastic as skipping the expense of a long stay in Miami in favor of exploring lesser known spots like Sarasota and Sanibel Island.

My 2009 trip around Portland, Idaho, Phoenix, and Las Vegas wasn’t jam-packed with iconic US experiences but it was no less memorable. I did things like biking the Route of the Hiawatha, visiting Indian cave dwellings in Walnut Creek Canyon, and designing my own Portland brewery tour. It was a little extra work, but it made the trip all the more personal. Don’t be afraid to skip the shiny tourist attraction and forge your own path.

#1 – Ask a local

The internet is a fantastic source of information, no doubt, but there’s only so much Google can do before you need a more personal touch. Websites like Lonely Planet’s Thorntree forum, reddit, or Ask a Nomad on World Nomads give you access to locals willing to answer any queries you might have. Yes, it’s still technically the Internet, but in a much more personalised way.

Thanks to posting on my Facebook page, I discovered Sanibel Island. It was a friend who lives in Portland who told me to check out Tillamook. A blog reader put me on to the beauty of China’s Xinjiang province, and it was through Instagram that I found out about cheap drinks in Singapore.

The big sites are only going to cover so much and, let’s be honest, they’re probably recommending the locations they’re told to. Ask a local and they’ll point you in the direction of the places they love. They may not be a glitzy tourist trap or a five star restaurant, but you can guarantee they’ll be cheaper and probably not so far off in terms of your enjoyment.

Your Budget Tips

What are your tips for saving money when you travel? I’ve touched on just the most obvious here because, well, I’m not too good at working to a budget. Help me to help my readers and share your best tips.

Destinations, Tanzania
serengeti stars tented camp glamping

Serengeti Glamping: A Night Under the African Stars

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When it comes to accommodation on safari, there really is no shortage of options. From humble hotels to bare as bones camping to the luxury of a five star lodge like the Four Seasons Serengeti, there’s an accommodation option for all tastes and budgets when on safari in Tanzania.

Returning to Tanzania this last June was like a homecoming for me, and it seems fitting that a year after my first trip to the jewel of eastern Africa, I’m writing about one of my favourite memories from the trip.

That experience? Trying ‘glamping’ for the first time.

Just as glamping in Australia is becoming increasingly popular, this unique mix of outdoor ruggedness with high-end luxury is fast becoming the most popular way to stay while on safari.

What is Glamping?

Simply put, glamping (short for glamorous camping) is a form of camping in which accommodation and facilities are more in line with what one might expect from a luxury hotel or lodge.

serengeti glamping bed
Who needs a sleeping bag? I’ve got a huge, comfy bed all to myself.

You’re still out in the elements and you’re still sleeping under canvas, but rather than pitching a tent with a sleeping bag and the smell of your own farts, you’re afforded luxuries such as a hot shower, a proper bed, and (in some cases) gourmet cuisine.

It’s a really fun way to mix the closeness to nature that you find camping with the creature comforts that you want to treat yourself to while you’re on vacation.

Serengeti Glamping

In Africa, glamping sites are typically known as ‘tented lodges’, and these range from the relatively basic Wildebeest Camp on the fringes of Kenya’s Masai Mara to more elaborate locations such as Ang’ata in the Serengeti.

On my most recent trip through Tanzania’s northern circuit (comprised of the Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, and Lake Manyara), I was lucky enough to spend two nights in tented lodges – one on a mountain overlooking the tangled forests of Tarangire and one at the very heart of the Serengeti.

We’d finished a long and dusty day of game driving through the Seronera (central) region of the Serengeti when we rounded one last hill and came within sight of our camp for the evening. My adrenaline was still up after finally having the chance to see and photograph a cheetah, but I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t more than a little tired after our 7am start and long day of ‘oohing’ and ‘aahing’ at the incomparable beauty of the Serengeti.

Our home for the night would be Kisura Serengeti Camp, a ‘mobile camp’ that boasts all of the modern conveniences but has the mobility to move with the Wildebeest Migration that sees millions of animals move between the Ndutu region of the southern Serengeti and the Masai Mara in the south of Kenya.

kisura lodge serengeti
A wee bit of outdoor seating so you can soak in the ambience.

A Night in Kisura Serengeti Camp

It’s standard practice at most African lodges to greet guests with an ice cold drink and a wet towel with which to wipe away the dust of the day, and Kisura was no different.

The porters were quick to divest us of our heavy bags and lead us to our accommodation for the evening, large tents sporting a spacious bedroom and an equally large bathroom including environmentally friendly toilet, a shower, and a small changing room.

With a Serengeti sunset beckoning, I didn’t waste much time in my room.

serengeti sunset acacia tree
I think you’ll agree, the sunset was worth it.

Covered in dust from the long drive between Tarangire and the Serengeti, it was then time for a shower. With the camp being a mobile camp, there aren’t any permanent hot water facilities set up. Instead, the staff heated water for us and gave us a shout when our showers were ready to use.

After freshening up, it was over to a bonfire to meet the other guests and relax until dinner was ready.

It was sitting around this bonfire while a pair of staff members patrolled the perimeter with flashlights that I was reminded that we were in the very heart of the Serengeti.

No fences, no walls, no armed guards.

All that stood between us and the very real danger of predators such as lions and leopards was a crackling bonfire and a pair of guards armed with flashlights and a keen understanding of the area.

Overhead its a seemingly endless sprawl of stars scattered across a pall of deep blue. The sheer quiet of the night imparts a sense of reverence, and the only sounds beyond our murmured conversations are the crackling of the fire and the cheerful singing of insects.

We’re soon called to dinner in a large communal tent, a scrumptious affair far removed from the fire-roasted sausages and beans that are standard Aussie camping fare.

Sleeping with Hyenas

There’s no bright lights or stocked bar out here.

No power points in your room with which to charge your laptop or iPhone.

Instead, it’s the soft glow of a pair of solar lanterns that welcome you back to your room once your escort ensures you’re safely behind the canvas.

Exhausted from a long day, it wasn’t long before I’d collapsed into my comfortable queen-sized bed accompanied by… silence.

It’s a rare commodity – silence. You really don’t get it much back home, so it’s completely surreal to hear nothing as you drift off to sleep.

serengeti stars tented camp glamping
This isn’t my photo, but it gives you an idea of just what stood overhead. Photo by Igor Natanzon.

I’d be lying if I said I didn’t have a bit of trouble drifting off knowing that all that stood between me and hungry lions was a thin layer of canvas, or that I didn’t wake up a time or two startled by the ominous chuckle of hyenas or the weird, vaguely sexual grunting of a distant herd of wildebeest moving under cover of darkness.

But once the weirdness of the situation wore off, I was able to drift off into one of the better nights of sleep I’d had in months.

There aren’t many people who can say they’ve fallen asleep to a lullaby sung by hyenas and wildebeest, but that experience is available to anybody who visits the Serengeti. There is a healthy selection of tented lodges available for those who want to try their hand at a little Serengeti glamping.

 

My experience with tented lodges in Africa has (hopefully) only just begun. As much as I love the mod cons of a lavish lodge, I’d much rather feel like I’m out amongst the action.

I’m too much of a creature comforts guy to want to deal with sleeping bags and nowhere to charge my camera though, so tented lodges and the glamping experience are perfect for me.

Your Say

Have you ever been glamping?

Is it something that appeals to you?