taipei food tour cold noodles

Tasting Taipei on a Taipei Eats Food Tour

When I first decided to visit Taiwan as part of my bi-monthly trips out of China for visa runs, I did quite a bit of research on what to see and do there.

I read quite a bit from Adventures Around Asia on the subject of travel in Taiwan, and her description of just how damned good the food in Taiwan was inspired me to eat all of the things. Knowing that I’d be spending four days in the capital, I also spent a lot of time researching things to do in Taipei.

One thing that was a must: trying Taiwan’s famous cuisine.

Knowing you want to try good food and knowing where to find it can be a pain in the ass though, so I partnered up with Taipei Eats to take a culinary expedition through Taipei’s many markets and eateries.

Taking a Taipei Eats Food Tour

I’d made a point of not eating much during the day to ensure I was at peak glutton levels in time for our food tour.Thankfully, there’s no shortage of things to do in Taipei, so it was easy to keep myself distracted from the rumbling in my belly.

Starting in the early evening, my stomach was definitely in the mood to eat all of the things and I was pleasantly surprised that our four hour tour would include the chance to eat 8-10 dishes. Winning!

Joined by a trio of New Yorkers, our small group was lead fearlessly through the streets and laneways of Taipei on an uncomfortably hot and wet Tuesday evening.

Our travels took us through bustling street markets, into little hole in the wall shops where you could see your food being cooked right in front of you, and to popular local spots where space was at a premium.

taipei food tour night market
I love the energy of a bustling market. The warring smells and sounds can be daunting, but they’re also energising.
taipei food tour manto steamed bread
All manner of foods – both ready to eat and ready to cook – were on display, all with their vendors shouting for your attention.
taipei food tour cooking
Everywhere we went, smiling faces welcomed us to their stall, shop, or restaurant.
taipei food tour thousand layer scallion bread
Watching your food (in this case the impressively named Thousand Layer Scallion Bread) is a fun part of the experience.

With the exception of one stop – the popular and well known Koa Chi in Songshan Creative Park – most of our stops felt very off the beaten track.

That isn’t to say they weren’t popular with the locals. We’d often see our table filled just as soon as we stood up, and there was always a steady stream of locals ducking in and out to grab a bite to eat.

It’s not hard to Google ‘best Taipei restaurants’ or read the gospel according to TripAdvisor, but our tour guide piloted us coolly between places I’d likely never have found on my own. That’s the benefit of a food tour in a new city, and we definitely reaped the rewards.

taipei food tour mochi
I’m not usually a fan of mochi (glutinous rice cakes), but this one with ground peanut on the outside was a nice treat.
taipei food tour thousand layer scallion bread 2
A close-up of the delicious (and piping hot) Thousand Layer Scallion Bread.
tapei eats gua bao taiwanese burger
Similar to Roujiamou, Gua Bao are a burger like snack with coriander and sweetened peanut. It’s an interesting mix of sweet and savoury.

The tour is not rushed by any stretch, with plenty of time to walk and people watch in between destinations. Starting at 4pm with an estimated finish time of 8pm, we actually didn’t say our farewells until closer to 10pm.

There’s a kind of amiability to it that feels like you’re exploring with a local friend rather than somebody you’re paying. Our guide never rushed us when we were enjoying a lengthy discussion of Pokemon Go or US politics or the differences between China and Taiwan, and there were ample opportunities for sight-seeing as we passed places like Songshan Creative Park and the Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall.

taipei food tour cold noodles
One of my favourite stops was for savoury cold noodles. I fell in love with these in Beijing, and they’re such a perfect meal on a hot summer night.
taipei food tour miso egg drop pork ball soup
Miso Egg Drop Pork Ball Soup is a mouthful to say, but a nice light meal.
taipei food tour xiaolongbao
Xialongbao might be my absolute favourite example of Chinese food. Soup dumplings like this are available everywhere in Taiwan.
taipei food tour tainan rice cake
Undoubtedly the strangest dish on the menu, Tainan Rice Cake is a mix of sticky rice, fish floss, braised pork, boiled peanuts, and more.

It was a really fun evening out. The rain and the heat didn’t seem to matter so much when we were all in it together, and there were plenty of chances for us to bond over the walk or over my indecision over whether I like or dislike bubble tea.

One failing of the tour (and this could very well have been because we were such a chatty lot) is that I didn’t feel like I was learning as much as I’d have liked.

My Carpe DC Food Tour might have set the bar high when it came to a tour being educational, but I went home with a full belly and a mind that didn’t feel like it had been quite as nourished.

As I say, perhaps this was just our group never giving our guide an opening to explain the history of a given dish, so I can’t fault Taipei Eats for this. Perhaps in a quieter group, I’d have learned a whole lot more.

taipei food tour taiwanese sorbet
Our night finished with fantastic, organic sorbet. I chose wisely with the mango, I think.
taipei food tour woman eating
Doreen, like me, is an avid fan of carbs. The scallion bread was a favourite.
taipei food tour betel nut
Only two of us were brave enough to try betel nut – a local stimulant that tastes like lawn clippings.

All told, it was a fantastic way to spend a night and get an introduction to Taiwan’s many and varied culinary influences.

With a meandering pace and a lot of variety, it’s one of the more relaxed and enjoyable food tours I’ve been on.

Your Say

Have you ever been on an especially memorable food tour?

Got any favourite Taiwanese cuisines I should try out?

Disclaimer: My Taipei Eats Xinyi food tour was provided free of charge in exchange for this review. All opinions are my own.

10 Ways to Make Extra Money for Travel

The press is full of doom and gloom when it comes to the Australian economy, as you’ve probably noticed. BT Investment Management’s Vimal Gor even recently described the nation as being akin to the ‘little weedy kid no one wants on their team’. Ouch.

You’re probably feeling it in your pocket too. With wages failing to keep up with rising costs, the average Australian’s living standards are falling – down 1.5 per cent since December 2015 alone.

Editor’s Note: One of the many reasons I left.

With all that going on you could be forgiven for thinking that a holiday is off the agenda. Yet if the economic blues are getting you down you can do something about it. Take control by searching out ways to make a few dollars. By boosting your income you’ll have extra money at your disposal that you can divert to a holiday fund.

Here are ten tips to inspire you…

Collections

Got a hobby? It’s time to get serious about it. Collections of art, rare toys or first edition books can be highly desirable. Use your passion and knowledge to your advantage to hunt down items that you can make money some serious money from. You’ll have fun searching for the best items too.

Editor’s Note: I’ve long considered digging up my collection of 3,000 or so Magic: The Gathering cards from my youth and selling them. Some cards are worth more than $100.

Markets

Daunted by the stock market? Don’t be. Tap into the knowledge offered up by the experts at IG to learn how CFD and FX trading could work for you. Modern technology – in particular smartphone apps – help you to make a quick and well-informed trading choices at a time that is convenient for you.

Sell stuff

That garage of your unused stuff? It’s time it went. Be ruthless. If you haven’t used that home gym kit in the last six months then get rid, and bank the money to put towards something you do need. The same applies to anything from clothes to furniture and electronics.

garage sale
A garage sale can be a great way to declutter and make a little spending money. Image courtesy of Sandra Cohen-Rose.

Rent out a room

You don’t have to make much of an effort to make a little bit of money. Why not rent out your spare room to a tourist for a few nights? It’s money for (almost) nothing and capitalizes on the opportunity provided by the great number of overseas tourists who come to the country every year.

Editor’s Note: I’ll be subletting my Chinese apartment on AirBnB while I’m away from September to January. Seems silly to be paying $500 USD a month for a place that will house my excess clothes and cutlery.

Write

Companies need to rank as high as possible on Google and Google needs to see some decent content to let them do that. It’s the way of the world. That means every business needs someone to write website copy, blogs and guest articles on their behalf. If you’ve got a way with words you can earn money this way.

Editor’s Note: What a novel idea!

journalist make money online
This is pretty much me right now. Image courtesy of Esther Vargas.

Photos

Speaking of which, that content needs to be accompanied by pictures. If you’re handy with a camera you can sell your pictures to stock image sites, which are on the lookout for a bank of images to service websites right across the globe.

Surveys

Companies don’t just need content, they also need opinions. Surveys and marketing go hand in hand and many companies will pay you to take part in their pools. You won’t get much, but if it fills an idle five minutes with a simple task that earns you cash then why not?

Tutoring

It can be hard to learn a new hobby or skill. Any talents that you have – languages, playing musical instruments, first aid, sports – will be in demand. Pass on your expertise to others to earn yourself a little extra.

Editor’s Note: This is an especially popular option in Asia. I’ve just been asked by a local kid to help him improve his writing. At nearly $40 an hour, it’s lucrative work.

Extra work online

There are many new ways of working that allow you to pocket a little extra on the side. Amazon’s Mechanical Turk is a way for you to fulfill tasks on behalf of companies that have a need. Search around online and opt for the opportunities that best suit your talents.

Services

It might seem old fashioned, but you could roll your sleeves up and spend your weekends or evenings offering a service. Gardening, cleaning, ironing, dog walking, babysitting, driving, dressmaking – whatever it is, you can make money by doing this for others. You’ll feel extra-motivated to carry out this work when you see the impact is has on filling up your holiday fund.

——————–

If you’re prepared to work hard then your salary needn’t be the limit of your earnings. Use your talents and skills to good effect to rack up some extra dollars. Every spare second that you can give over to money making activities will make a massive difference and help to get you on that plan. The economy might be struggling, but you don’t have to.

Travel Daydream: The Ultimate New Zealand Road Trip

It could be said that the true joy of a road trip is the feeling of freedom as the wind whips through your hair, your favourite tune plays on the radio, and you’re in complete control of your destiny.

It’s just you, the wheel, and the open road.

I’ve never let a small thing like my lack of a car or a driver’s license stop me from enjoying the road trip experience, even going so far as enlisting the aid of my friend and sometime wingman, Hogg for this year’s Great US Road Trip.

In fact, when you’re a travel blogger who can occasionally get stuff for free, you’d be surprised how quickly friends come out of the woodwork to ask if they can drive you around a country…

New Road Trip Ambitions

Now that I’ve achieved my life long dream of doing a road trip across the US, I’ve had to set my sights on new road trip conquests.

One country I’ve been meaning to revisit and take my time with is New Zealand and, as luck would have it, it’s the perfect country for a road trip.

With car rental in New Zealand being affordable and there being no shortage of road trip routes to choose from, it’s the perfect place to spend a week, a month, or longer exploring at your own pace.

My Dream New Zealand Road Trip

I was lucky enough to visit New Zealand on a ten day ‘break up tour’ with my first travelling girlfriend, Fallon. While the trip itself was obviously a bittersweet one knowing that we’d say our goodbyes at trip’s end, we still managed to have a memorable Christmas period travelling through the land of the long white cloud.

Our trip packed in the highlights: Auckland, Rotorua, Christchurch, Queenstown, Franz Josef, and Milford Sound.

We even found time to stop off at Nelson for Christmas Eve.

As amazing as that trip was, it left me with a thirst to see it all again at a more sedate pace and in more detail.

Below, you’ll find my dream New Zealand road trip. I’m sure there are some glaring oversights, so feel free to let me know where I’ve fucked up.

North Island Road Trip

Auckland

I’m not alone in finding New Zealand’s largest city to be nowhere near as charming as Wellington, Christchurch, or virtually any other sizable population centre in the shaky isles.

That isn’t to say that Auckland isn’t without its charms, not the least of which is that it’s usually the cheapest place to fly to from Australia.

auckland museum
Auckland Museum is a fun rainy day activity. Image courtesy of Siyamalan.

It’s pretty telling that TripAdvisor’s list of top things to do in Auckland seem to be day trips out of the city, but there are galleries, museums, and memorials aplenty in the city for those who are interested in such things.

When I was last in Auckland, I stayed in the very quaint Verandahs Backpackers. It’s a bit flashier than the usual hostel, with a Colonial feel that makes it a good deal more ‘grown up’ than my usual backpacking digs.

Paihia & The Bay of Islands

A three hour drive north of Auckland, the subtropical Bay of Islands is a natural playground that I completely overlooked on my previous trip to New Zealand.

Whether it’s sedate cruises between the islands, serene scuba diving, adrenaline pumping sandboarding excursions, scenic cycling, or hardcore hiking – the area is one of many examples of New Zealand’s unmatched natural beauty.

It’s the kind of place I’d love to spend a few days exploring and just soaking it all in.

bay of islands new zealand
New Zealand’s east coast is an area of rugged beauty. Image courtesy of Graeme Churchard.

Matamata

One of my biggest causes for outrage on my last trip to New Zealand was that my then girlfriend would not acquiesce to my desire to visit Hobbiton.

hobbiton new zealand
Don’t tell me you wouldn’t love to overnight in your own hobbit hole. Image courtesy of Tom Hall.

Maybe she hadn’t grown up as enamored of the Lord of the Rings books as I had, but I was more than a little bummed that we wouldn’t be able to make a brief stop in at the filming location that introduced the world to Peter Jackson’s vision of Middle Earth.

The filming set has been kept in good order for tourists, and a cold beverage at the replica Green Dragon Inn would be a must as well.

When it’s all done, a farm stay at one of the local farms would be a nice way to see what rural life is like in NZ.

Rotorua

Onwards to the stinkiest city in New Zealand – Rotorua.

I spent Christmas Day of 2010 exploring Rotorua; taking the scenic gondola to the top of Mount Ngongotaha for a Christmas feast before racing back down to the bottom with the Skyline Luge.

The next day, we’d venture out for some Boxing Day zorbing, before finishing our time in the area with a visit to the world famous Waitomo Glowworm Caves for some blackwater rafting.

My post zorb leap of excitement after trying it in Rotorua, New Zealand.
My post zorb leap of excitement after trying it in Rotorua, New Zealand.

The area has so much to see and do, and even with a fairly packed three day visit, a brief look at Rotorua Tourism showcases kayaking, white water rafting, Maori cultural tours, treetop walks, geothermal springs, and so much more to be done in the area.

Wellington

Our last stop on the North Island is the Kiwi Capital, Wellington. A far more attractive prospect for tourists than the capital, the Windy City has some well regarded museums, galleries, and attractions to compliment its natural beauty.

For me, Te Papa (New Zealand’s national museum), the Zealandia sanctuary, and the WETA Cave are all on the to do list.

On the natural beauty side of things, Mount Victoria offers up unparalleled views of the city and Oriental Bay – and the city itself is a famed haven for foodies.

wellington
Searching for symmetry in Wellington. Image courtesy of Gregory Bodnar.

It’s here we bid farewell to the North Island, taking the ferry from Wellington to Picton on the South Island. At around $300 NZD (including a car) and taking three scenic hours, it’s an adventure all of its own.

South Island Road Trip

Marlborough Wine Region

With Picton being the spot where the ferry docks, it makes sense to spend a few days in the Marlborough region to sample some of New Zealand’s best wine.

marlborough new zealand vineyard
There’s something absolutely magical about wine country. Image courtesy of Peter Burge.

I first developed a love for the grape when I took a wine tour of Broke, and have since added to my limited knowledge with wine tours in southern California.

With more than 150 wineries responsible for more than 75% of New Zealand’s wine output, spending a few days soaking in the ambiance (and the wine) sounds like heaven to me.

Franz Josef Glacier

I was lucky enough to climb Franz Josef Glacier on my last visit to New Zealand, and it remains one of the most remarkable experiences of my travelling life.

Enjoying my lunch on Franz Josef Glacier
Enjoying my lunch on Franz Josef Glacier

We opted for the full day hiking experience on my original visit, and I’m so glad that we did. Standing atop such an ancient and powerful force of nature was a humbling experience, and the view was just surreal.

The nearby town of Franz Josef is a quaint little mountain town without a whole lot going on, but it’s hard to match that serenity.

Queenstown

Nestled on the shores of beautiful Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown remains one of my favourite towns on earth. It’s just epitomises the idyllic mountain town, and its tourism industry means it packs a lot to see and do into a small package.

In addition to local activities like zip-lining, hiking, and water sports, Queenstown is the unofficial capital of extreme sports in New Zealand. It’s here you’ll find world-class bungee jumping, canyon swings, and much more.

lake wakatipu queenstown
Queenstown might be the most picturesque town I’ve ever visited. Image courtesy of Andrea Schaffer.

Fiordland National Park

While it’s certainly possible to see and experience a fraction of Milford Sound’s majesty with a day trip from Queenstown, the park itself warrants far more than a cursory examination.

At over 1.2 million hectares, the Fiordland National Park is far more than just its 8th Wonder of the World contender – although you’d be forgiven for thinking it might be hard to top the soaring cliffs and deep waters of the famous site.

Doubtful Sound (sometimes amusing called the Sound of Silence) is a beauty all of its own, and the park’s legendary hiking tracks range from the picturesque to the downright grueling.

mitre peak milford sound fiordlands
Like something out of fantasy, right? Image courtesy of Andy Maw.

Invercargill

From the Fiordlands, it’s the Southern Scenic Route down to Invercargill at the very foot of the country.

Not so much a tourist spot as a place to unwind away from the hustle and bustle of the tourist trail, it’s also an important stop on the aforementioned Southern Scenic Route.

Dunedin

With some of the best preserved Victorian and Edwardian architecture in the entire southern hemisphere, Dunedin could easily be confused with its northern hemisphere equivalent.

There’s something very appealing about the idea of wandering the streets and laneways of Dunedin, visiting New Zealand’s only castle, and exploring the surrounding land on foot or on the famous Taieri Gorge Railway.

There’s beaches, breweries, and a whole lot more. I’m actually ashamed we didn’t hit Dunedin first time around.

larnach castle dunedin new zealand
Like something out of the Scottish Highlands. Image courtesy of Sally.

Christchurch

I’ve saved one of New Zealand’s best for last.

Despite its continued bad luck with natural disasters, Christchurch remains one of the most beautiful cities in the country. While it’s definitely showing signs of wear after its bad run with earthquakes, there’s still a sense of peace and creative energy to the Garden City.

base backpacker christchurch
Christchurch was actually my very first backpacking destination.

Regularly ranked highly in tourism journals as one of the world’s must see cities, Christchurch is creative, bohemian, resilient, quirky, and wonderfully serene. It well and truly won my heart first time around.

It’s from here we’d fly on home or to our next stop.

Your New Zealand Road Trip

What would be on your dream NZ Road Trip? Have you made one before?

Did I miss anything that you’d have included?

Have I included something that you think is woefully overrated?

 

lincoln memorial at night

Exploring DC with Modus Hotels

The One Washington Circle Experience

By the time we rolled into Washington DC, the Great US Road Trip was into its fifth and final week.

Coupled with the fact we’d just made the marathon 10 hour (without stops) drive from Nashville, we were feeling understandably saddle sore and weary by the time we found our accommodations and found a place to park the Mustang.

Despite this weariness, I was quite excited to see the hotel. I’d partnered with Modus Hotels for our two nights in DC, and was intrigued to see what a ‘lifestyle hotel’ was.

One Washington Circle is (obviously) located on Washington Circle, putting it at the beating heart of the US capital. Emphasizing health and wellness, the all-suite hotel provides local jogging maps and complimentary passes to local gyms and yoga studios to its guests – a feature we were in no shape to capitalize on after our long day on the road.

What we did capitalize on was the luxurious suite we’d been afforded. Check out the view from our balcony below!

The suite featured a fully equipped kitchen (complete with the ability to order groceries to stock it), a large living/dining space with accompanying grand piano, two bathrooms, and a massive King bed that I could easily have shared with Hogg.

I didn’t – I made him sleep on the fold out bed, but I totally could have shared it without any risk of unwelcome bonding.

one washington circle suite
The impressive suites at One Washington Circle were a welcome retreat after a long day’s driving. Image courtesy of Modus Hotels.

Too tired to do any exploring, we contented ourselves with a little late night dueling piano shenanigans and some locally brewed beers courtesy of the hotel’s management. What a nice treat after a long day cramped up in the car with pro-wrestling podcasts for company!

one washington circle welcome
Caramel popcorn and some local beers as welcome? Yes, please!

Perhaps the best thing about One Washington Circle was its central location, putting us just a short cab ride (or walk, if we weren’t so lazy) from major local attractions like the National Mall and the White House.

The one drawback to our stay was the combination of a late arrival and an early morning tour. We didn’t get to experience the hotel as I’d have liked, but what we did experience was amazing,

A DC Food Crawl

The highlight of our first day in DC was undoubtedly a Washington DC food crawl with Carpe DC Tours.

I’ve written at length in the above post about the experience, but it really was a fun way to learn more about the city than just its political history.

It was a fun way to experience DC through different eyes, having already done the memorials and Smithsonian on my previous visit in 2012.

ben's chili bowl half chili carpe dc
One of the best chili cheese dogs I’ve ever had. Perfect serving size for a busy day’s eating too.

Avenue Suites

We moved to another Modus property for our second night in DC, taking the short walk down the street to Avenue Suites.

The two are literally a five minute walk apart, with Avenue Suites maintaining the same standards while managing to have a totally different feel to its sister property. Located on the very fringes of the city’s Georgetown district, it has a more breezy and West Coast feel to it than One Washington Circle.

avenue suites washington dc entry
The entrance and ground floor of Avenue Suites has a really trendy, Hollywood theme. Photo courtesy of Modus Hotels.

Our room here was a comfortable twin setup, with a pair of queen sized beds, a separate sitting area, and the same warm welcome we’d experience at One Washington Circle – albeit with a bottle of good white wine rather than local IPAs.

avenue suites dc twin room
The most spacious twin room I’ve ever been in. Photo courtesy of Modus Hotels.

Another highlight of the hotel for me was it’s comfortable lounge area, which spans both indoor seating and outdoor seating in a cute little garden area. I tried to snap artsy photos of both, but neither turned out especially well, sadly.

DC by Night

Being so close to the National Mall made it easy for us to get out and explore the various monuments for which Washington DC is famous, and with our day filled with a food tour – we did this by night.

Guided by one of Hogg’s former study abroad buddies, we spent a few hours wandering the darkened paths between the towering statues and moving tributes that comprise this fascinating corner of the city.

From the iconic Lincoln Memorial and Washington Monument to lesser known but no less beautiful monuments such as the haunting Korean War Memorial, it’s a really fun walk even when it’s dark out.

Hell, I especially enjoyed it at night, as you didn’t have to contend with crowds of people when it came time to snap a photo or two.

The downside, of course, is that night photography on an iPhone can be tricky business. Even with a good night photography app (I like Cortex Cam), it’s difficult to capture the majesty of these towering edifices and do them justice.

Washington Monument at night
Phallic? Perhaps. But an impressive monument all the same. I’m just glad no Super Mutants tried to shoot me as I drew near.
lincoln memorial at night
He wasn’t lecturing me about how to win a public speaking competition, but Honest Abe made an impression.

Never Enough Time

Like every other stop on the Great US Road Trip not named Las Vegas, we didn’t have nearly enough time to do DC justice.

We didn’t have time to check out the Smithsonian and could only manage a rushed tour of the Capitol Building, but managed to enjoy the US capital all the same.

A huge thanks to Modus Hotels for helping to make the visit possible. I only wish we’d had more time to avail ourselves of the properties and their on-site restaurants!

etete ethiopian cuisine carpe dc

An Educational Washington DC Food Tour with Carpe DC

A Washington DC Food Tour with a difference

If there is one kind of tour you’ll never have to twist my arm to get me on, it’s a food crawl.

To my mind, there are few better ways to get to understand a city’s culture than by eating the foods that the locals created.

During my five week Great US Road Trip, I was lucky enough to take part in two food crawls: one uncovering the quirkier side of Austin’s renowned food scene and one unearthing the history (and hidden flavours) of Washington DC.

My Washington DC food tour, arranged by Carpe DC tours, was an intriguing mixture of delicious flavours and uncovering the less well-documented side of the American capital’s history.

Far from the Capitol and the monuments, we explored the U Street and Shaw neighbourhood to learn about DC’s rich African-American history.

The Food

The highlight of any food tour is obviously going to be the food, and the U Street & Shaw Food Tour with Carpe DC covered its bases there with a range of flavours from home and abroad.

Reflecting the city’s multicultural past and present, our meals included everything from American favourites to Ethiopian delicacies to enchanting fusions of different cuisines.

In all our tour featured six wildly different stops:

Ben’s Chili Bowl

Our starting point was something of a DC icon, with Ben’s Chili Bowl being part of the neighbourhood throughout its often turbulent history.

Opened in the 50s, Ben’s Chili Bowl has been there for many of the leaps forward (and sad steps back) made in the fight for African-American equality, and today stands at the heart of a bustling, rapidly gentrifying part of the city.

Our meal here was a delicious half-smoked chili & cheese washed down with a locally brewed DC Brau Public Pale Ale.

ben's chili bowl half chili carpe dc
One of the best chili cheese dogs I’ve ever had. Perfect serving size for a busy day’s eating too.

Matchbox

Our next stop was a newer player on the local food scene, with Matchbox being an even more recent addition to the food tour.

Best known for its pizza, we instead stopped by for the kind of cinnamon bun that would have made Louis CK proud. With just two of us on the tour, we got to eat our fill of sweet, moist deliciousness.

matchbox dc cinnamon bun carpe dc
I’m not usually an advocate of cinnamon buns, but this one was exquisite.

We washed this sweet treat down with a distinctly DC spin on the Bloody Mary, a ‘Bloody Beer’ made with Pabst Blue Ribbon.

bloody beer carpe dc
Surprisingly refreshing.

Fast Gourmet

Combining the quality of a gourmet feed and the speed of a fast food joint, Fast Gourmet certainly doesn’t look like much at first glance.

What it lacks in airs and graces, though, it makes up for in an intriguing menu that combines flavours from all over the world. I saw everything from Thai to Mexican to Indian to English traditions exemplified on their menu.

We sampled some of their Hispanic foods, with humitas empanadas and some fried plantains. I hadn’t had an empanada before (or since), but I’m reliably assured by our guide that these are some of the best empanadas he’s ever had.

empanada fast gourmet carpe dc
Unassuming, but unarguably delicious.

Etete

By the time we reached Etete, we were rapidly approaching ‘pleasantly full’.

While our tour had so far seen us do a decent amount of walking, talking, and listening, Etete brought us to the limit of what we could eat without feeling uncomfortably full. Our guide tells us that he’s designed the tour this way, and it works – both of us are feeling that perfect combination of satiated and just a little sleepy.

Etete, exemplifying the Ethiopian population in the area, offers up the cuisine of this unique corner of Africa, and it’s a real treat to finish off a heaping helping of tej washed down with yemisir wat.

Etete was arguably our favourite stop on the tour. The staff were warm and welcoming, the food was fantastic, and it was a great place to sit and people watch while we digested.

etete ethiopian cuisine carpe dc
My favourite meal of the day. Messy and delicious!

Compass Coffee

The food part of our DC food crawl might have been over, but we still had two more stops along the way.

Compass Coffee is another local institution and a sure sign of DC’s gentrification, offering up coffees from around the world served in a delightfully hipster corner of the city.

With the weather quite warm, I treated myself to a cold brew nitro pour of their cardinal blend. Hit the spot!

Calabash

Our last stop was another quirky one – making it six for six when it comes to places I’d never have expected to find in the US capital.

Calabash specialises in tea and herbal brews, and we finished off our day sitting in its perfumed interior with a Love Potion #10 Chai and a monstrous (and aptly named) Monster Cookie.

monster cookie calabash carpe dc
The appropriately named ‘monster cookie’. More than enough for two.

The History

Looking at the above, you’d think it was a packed itinerary with no time for anything but food, but that would be patently wrong.

What made Carpe DC stand out was the overarching theme of our day’s exploration: the culture of Washington DC and, specifically, the U Street & Shaw area in which we conducted our exploration.

bens chili bowl bill cosby mural
The controversial Bill Cosby mural on the wall of Ben’s Chili Bowl was one of many colourful examples of street art.

Our guide, Stefan, isn’t just passionate about African-American history, it’s what he does. Doing his phD in archaeology with a view towards unearthing more of a sadly incomplete history of African America, Stefan is a veritable font of knowledge as we pick our way through the neighbourhood.

We stop off at places that many novices of American history might not be familiar with, but it’s all explained in a way that makes the relevance immediately apparent. From the first ‘black Broadway’ to the abundance of brightly coloured street art to the charter schools, we’re painted a rich picture of DC that goes well beyond the bureaucracy and the pomp of monuments.

It’s a side to DC I had no idea existed, but am truly glad to have been exposed to.

black broadway dc
Image courtesy of Black Broadway on U

The Review

Carpe DC Tours really took me by surprise.

I don’t think I’ve ever taken a food tour that disappointed me. I love food and it’s not hard to make me happy if you’re pointing me in the direction of good food.

What surprised me was how richly informative the tour was, and how I didn’t just feel like I was eating my way through a city. I was digesting the rich flavours of its food while also digesting its history and its culture.

That, to me, is the mark of a truly great tour – be it a food tour, a segway tour, or something more zany. It should engage you with the place you’re visiting, and Carpe DC’s U Street and Shaw tour accomplished that.

Other DC Deliciousness

Our DC food tour inspired us to be a bit more adventurous in our own eating, and so we also ventured beyond our usual road trip staples of Subway and pizza to try a few other popular local spots.

Founding Farmer’s

A popular brunch spot quite close to our dual hotels at One Washington Circle and Avenue Suites, Founding Farmers won our business by the sole virtue of being open when the other 3-4 brunch places we’d walked by weren’t opening until 11.

Serving up brunch staples such as pancakes, bacon & eggs, and French toast – Founding Farmers is made unique by the fact it is a farm to table establishment owned jointly by more than 40,000 farmers.

You’re not only getting a hearty brunch spread, but you’re supporting local farmers while you do it. Not bad!

Mr. Yogato

Mr. Yogato gets made points for just how insanely offbeat it is.

Patrons can get a discount on their frozen yogurt (with obligatory toppings) by performing a number of tasks including (but not limited to) answering trivia questions, ordering in a particular accent, or participating in some kind of challenge.

I saved 35 cents on my delicious dessert by ordering in my best Queen Elizabeth accent after naming eight countries that start and end with a different vowel.

Anybody can do dessert, and Lord knows I ate plenty of desserts on the road, but Mr. Yogato stuck out.

Agora

We joined forces with Rachel and Jeff from World Flavor for our delicious Mediterranean feast at Agora.

I last saw these two jet-setting foodies when they introduced Nomadic American and I to Butter is Better in Chiang Mai, so it was a treat to have them show me something new (and delicious) on the other side of the world.

We ate our fill of humus, lebnah, kofte, and felafel as our farewell to DC.

agora dc
Image courtesy of Agora.

——————

Your Say

DC surprised me with the sheer variety of cuisines that could be found and enjoyed there.

Have you got any favourite spots in the US capital?

Have you ever taken a food tour that had a different twist that made it really stand out?

Disclaimer: My tour with Carpe DC was provided on a complimentary basis. All opinions are my own.