G'day! I'm Chris. I left my home in rural Australia back in 2007 to pursue a life less ordinary.
I specialize in ambitious travel - bucket list worthy journeys such as the Great US Road Trip, the ultimate African safari, and following the length of the Silk Road.
I’m not the first person to have spent Christmas in South Korea, and my good friend Heather from over at The Kimchi Chronicles has been kind enough to share her own thoughts on spending the holiday away from friends and family.
If you’re curious about Korean lifestyle and culture, Heather’s blog is one of the best ones you’ll find. I’m looking forward to catching up with her and her boyfriend Britton in the New Year when I return to my adopted homeland.
Myself, Heather, and her boyfriend Britton at my farewell in 2009
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Celebrating Christmas in Korea
As many ex-pats in Korea know, the holidays and special occasions are difficult times to be away from family and friends. Ā I know that feeling myself. Ā But I remind myself many times that not everyone gets to spend time in a foreign country, and experience holidays in another country.
The first thing I noticed about Christmas in Korea was how refreshingly non-commercial it was. Ā Anyone from home can attest to the fact that immediately following Halloween, Christmas decorations, cards, candy, toys, and other miscellaneous items make their appearance. Ā Radio stations start the yearly barrage of holiday tunes, and it’s not uncommon to find yourself unconsciously humming along when doing your regular shopping at the store.
But Korea is quiet. Ā After Halloween the Pepero Day displays went up. Ā After that, there was a few weeks of fall sales. Ā At the beginning of December, the fake trees and decorations came out. Ā But instead of taking up a few aisles like they would at Wal-Mart back home, they’re relegated to a small corner of the store. Ā Christmas is just not as big here as it is at home.
Heather's Christmas Tree
That doesn’t mean I don’t celebrate it. Ā I just have adapted a few traditions and made some of my own. Ā My big thing is having a tree, because there is nothing prettier than sitting by the tree aglow with lights and with presents laid underneath. Ā And I enjoy getting to open said presents on Christmas morning. Ā Thus, a fake tree was purchased the first year in Korea and has been carefully decorated every December since.
At home I would help my mom with the Christmas baking and cooking; here I do some of my own. Ā Nothing as elaborate as mom would do, but I can make a pretty good peanut butter fudge as well as some tasty muffins!
Another nice thing I like about Korea during the holidays: Ā getting to travel easily on Christmas! Ā The past two years I’ve headed up to Seoul with Britton to enjoy the city. Ā Getting there by bus or train is easy because it’s not crowded on Christmas morning. Ā We can get to the city by early afternoon and have time to enjoy the sights and a delicious meal for dinner later. Ā Sure, it’s not the usual turkey with the trimmings, but familiar Mexican food is a good replacement!
All in all, Korea has a darn good Christmas and holiday season, especially if you’re adventurous enough to make new traditions of your own. And it doesn’t hurt that snow is abundant enough to make it a white Christmas more often than not.
Koreans do Christmas decorations like they do everything else - over the top
If you aren’t already familiar with Brooke’s work over at WhyGo Australia and Brooke vs. the World, what have you been doing!? Between the two blogs Brooke is putting out more content than you can shake a stick at, and she’s seen enough countries to make even the most seasoned nomad feel just a little jealous.
A few years back Brooke and I shared a mutual friend as she worked with my mate Brodie during her teaching stint in the Ukraine. I’d met Brodie back in 2007-08 when we both worked in Korea, and there are plenty of tales of his drunken Canadian shenanigans that I’ll share some other time.
But as another part of my little series on celebrating Christmas overseas – Brooke tells us a little about her experiences celebrating Christmas in the Ukraine.
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With the onset of the holiday season, there has been a slew of posts in the travel blogging community talking about missing home.Ā Iām with them.Ā I often donāt feel homesick on the road until the big holidays come up ā Thanksgiving and Christmas ā when I would normally be surrounded by more family than I can possibly handle.Ā Funny how that works, eh?Ā When Iām home, my family drives me a bit nuts, but when Iām gone, I just want to be home.
My first Christmas away from home took place in 2008 when I was teaching English in Ukraine.Ā I didnāt know what to expect, and I hadnāt actually planned ahead that far in the future.Ā It turns out that in Ukraine, Christmas comes late… like 2 weeks late.Ā What?!Ā Yep, being a largely Russian Orthodox group of people, they celebrate on the Julian calendar.Ā That means they celebrate Christmas on January 6th.
Shock, horror!
Instead of being snuggled up at home with friends and family on December 25th, I actually had to prepare lesson plans and head over to the classroom for an evening with language students.Ā In short, it was not a Christmas like I would have preferred; there should have been food and drink… and presents… and all should have taken place in a heated home instead of a freezing school building.
I must say that it is already difficult to get into the holiday spirit when youāre not at home with family, and then to be confronted with the sad fact that not even the same day of the year will get the respect it deserves makes it worse.Ā I felt a bit depressed as even the time difference made it hard to contact loved ones in America.Ā I cursed Ukraine and its silly backwards holiday celebrating ā New Years before Christmas, really?!
So, I did what any sad, foreign girl would do on Christmas Day in a country where it wasnāt yet to be:Ā I went to class buzzed.
Ok, so Iām not an alcoholic.Ā I decided to head to church with my flatmate in the afternoon who had started going to a place targeted to expats.Ā Iām not a church-goer, but it was either that or stay at home by myself! After the service, we headed back to the pastorās apartment for a meal, which involved a glass or two of wine.Ā As warm and happy as that wine and meal made me, Christmas just did not feel like Christmas.
I had lessons to teach and pronunciation to correct.Ā I had sentence structure to instruct, and I had to run the whole show.
But, wait… whatās that?
A card from one of my Ukrainian students wishing me a Merry Christmas was presented before I left that evening.Ā It was probably the best hand-written message I could have ever received, and on my Christmas no less.Ā I was touched.
It was just another lesson I had to learn in my travelling life.Ā Celebrating the holidays away from home will never be the same, but they do come with their own experiences that make them unique and worthwhile.Ā I just have to remember that fact when December 25th rolls around this year, too.
After all of the wailing and gnashing of teeth after I had to call off my planned return to Korea earlier this month (which you can read about in the entry entitled A Slight Change of Plans), I had begun to plan for spending the first few months of my single existence in Sydney. With two recent promotions at work both giving me less time dealing with customers and more exposure to the people I work with, I’dĀ really begun to feel at home in my office and the idea of working there an extra few months didn’t sound half bad.
I’ve fallen in love with Sydney over the course of our nine months here, and it’s come to feel more like home to me than virtually any other place I’ve lived since leaving Ben Lomond at the end of high school. Maybe it’s just having a full time job on Australian shores for the first time in my life, or maybe it’s that I’ve got my regular bar haunts and favourite spots. Maybe it’s to do with the fact I’ve run races here and explored more of this city than I ever did of Armidale or Newcastle when I lived there.
Or maybe it’s just that I’ve been happy with my place in life. That’s not a feeling I’d come to associate with life in my nation of birth. I thought it was just exclusive to my Korean experience.
So, I was in the process of working myself up for a few months spent in Australia. I’d talked with my friend Dave about him being my wingman and I’d agreed to tag along to a speed dating thing with my friend Brendan. After what is probably the most sober year I’ve had since I was old enough to tip back suds, I was looking forward to painting Sydney red and experiencing it from a different angle.
But that wasn’t to be.
And then….
When I’d first decided to head back to Korea midway through this year, I had two locations that I wanted ahead of all others. One o them, Gwangju, had the plus of being a place I knew well – but the drawback of a place that I spent a considerable amount of time exploring with Fallon.
And you thought Bondi was crowded?
My other choice? The very cool city of Busan on Korea’s east coast. Korea’s second largest city, Busan is perhaps most famous for Haeundae beach. But there’s more to this massive port city than a stretch of beach that comes to resemble an organized orgy every summer. There’s a vibrant foreigner scene, a world class aquarium, the requisite number of temples and ruins, an easy three hour ferry ride across the Sea of Japan to beautiful Fukuoka, and all of the history associated with being Korea’s ‘second capital’.
Y’see, during the Korean War things were pretty grim for the South – and at one point virtually all of the peninsula had fallen into the hands of the North. All, that is, except for resiliant Busan.
Busan Dangerous
I’ve been to the city twice before – once in a hit and run trip across to Japan to arrange my second Korean visa, and once in a posse with a group of friends for an escape from Gwangju and its ex-related drama.
The girls enjoying a Thursday Party
Not really knowingĀ too much about the city we made a beeline straight for the beach. Koreans don’t really do the beach right. Where Aussies would be out dodging chest high breakers, surfing, body boarding, and sunning themselves – Koreans seem intent on doing the exact opposite. They wade around in the timid surf and wear more layers on the beach than the average foreigner would in winter. I don’t think I’ve ever even seen a Korean surfing. But I do like that their beach culture lasts well beyond the setting of the sun. Where Aussie beaches basically become ghost towns once it’s no longer hot out – Korean beaches remain a hive of activity even at 9 or 10 at night. Families sitting out underneath the stars and vendors peddling fireworks give it all a bit of a carnival feel.
The rest of our weekend in Busan was what you would expect from a bunch of young, single foreigners. We drank far too much at bars ranging from the empty Thursday Party to the criminally sleazy Bar U Two where the girls were set upon by ever desperate loser in the joint. We ate delicious Indian food at Ganga, sang noraebang into the wee hours, and spent our recovery day exploring the aquarium and wishing we hadn’t made the mistake of mixing poju (Powerade + soju) with whiskey.
Tim doin' the poju dance
But I’ve gotten way off base here. Suffice to say I had a good time in Busan and I’d heard very good things about the place ever since. My friends Marilize and Anne both live there and have both told stories of their nights out watching the Lotte Giants baseball team or spent sunning on the less crowded beaches. In short – if I couldn’t be in Gwangju, I wanted to be in Busan.
The Offer
I celebrated my 27th birthday with the news that I’d been given an offer from a hogwan in Busan. The initial offer was a generous one – but I sent back a few requests and half expected to be shot down. Still torn between spending more time in Australia and returning to my old stomping grounds, I was actually surprised when they replied mere hours later with a new contract incorporating every one of my requests.
I ummed and erred about it a while, but Fallon talked some sense into me. In a nation where finding an understanding and flexible boss is a rare feat – it would be criminally stupid of me to turn down a job that sounded good and had a boss who would make changes to ensure I was happy. I’d replied within the hour.
In the past week I’ve begun to assess just how little time I have to get everything organized. I’ve got a quick visit to my family this weekend and then it’s off to New Zealand next Friday. After that it’s Fiji, the break-up, and more Fiji – and I touch down again in Australia on January 14th. With my new school wanting me to fly out again on January 20th – that gives me a damned small window to work with. I’ll basically have to drop off my visa documents on the Monday and fly out on the Thursday, and I don’t think there’ll be time to see the family. That turns this weekend’s Christmas visit into a big goodbye as well, and means the task of packing begins now.
I spent my afternoon going through our room here and deciding which things would stay, which would stay with a view to going to Korea, and which could go into storage on the family property. Being limited to cramming your entire life into one 20kg piece of checked luggage and one piece of carry one makes for some hard decisions.
a). Amusing t-shirts that Koreans won’t get? Home
b). A year’s supply of Australian Four Four Two? Home
c). Weighty D&D tomes? Home
d). Letters from Fallon and photos? Home
e). That pair of ugly underpants Fallon insists I throw away? Oh, you best believe they’re coming to Korea with me.
In addition to the packing and the arranging of my documents to send off for my visa – I’ve also been lucky enough to exchange mails with the American guy I’m replacing, and it’s been a big relief to find out that the school is a pleasant work environment; the apartment is big (and has a double bed and desk); and I’m close to the subway. Close to the subway means close to the night life – and that’s where I want to be.
So my travel calendar just got a little bit more hectic. Looks like the next relaxed weekend I have won’t be until mid January. Crikey!
Yesterday marked the first of a series of posts about Christmas abroad, with the fabulous Heather from over at There’s No Place Like Oz sharing her thoughts on her first Christmas abroad in a candid and interesting fashion. You’ll be pleased to know that we’ll soon be seeing further posts from Fallon at Fallon’s Healthy Life; Brooke from Brooke vs. the World; Hannah from Hannah DeMilita; and Heather from The Kimchi Chronicles as well. Exciting times ahead!
It’s true that living abroad has its difficult moments regardless of the time of year. There are going to be nights when you miss your family so much that it hurts, cold and rainy days when you’d kill to be back home in your favourite sunny spot, and dull evenings when nothing would make you happier than a bang on the door from an old friend on another continent.
But I think it’s fair to say that Christmas is perhaps the most difficult time for a lot of people in their time abroad. I know that’s how it was for me during the Christmas of 2007. I’d been in South Korea less than a month and was struggling to adapt to the change in lifestyle and having to cope with it without the safety net that my wonderful family provided.
But (and I’m going to steal from Heather here) – it’s perhaps easiest to explain why I was struggling so much by telling you a little about Christmas in the Bush residence.
The Bush Christmas
For as long as I can remember, my mother has ensured that Christmas was always a big production. Whether we were spending it crammed into my grandmother’s tiny Newcastle house or spending it in the comfort of our own home – it seemed Mum lived to max out credit cards and empty savings accounts for the big day. I don’t want to give the impression that this was what made Christmas special though – although an extra few gifts and an extra kilogram of prawns certainly didn’t hurt things.
We set up the Christmas tree on the 1st of December, and each year there is a different colour scheme. We’ve ranged from the traditional silvers and reds to more unique pastels, and every year Mum adds to our already large collection of decorations. Each year we spend a few hours decorating, stringing lights, and listening to the first Christmas carols of the season.
I heft Izaak up to the top of the three so he can place the angel
Soon after that my brothers and I get into the all-important task of decorating the house. Every year we grow more ambitious in our decorative plans, and I’m assured that this year the house has been decorated to Clark Griswold levels of illumination by Leigh and Dominik. For the most part, my role in the day’s work involves standing about supervising with a beer in hand while my two more limber siblings scramble about on the tin roof pinning down strands of lights.
You missed a spot guys!
As the big day draws closer we all go about our Christmas shopping. Some of us are secretive about it while others openly seek advice for our last minute eBay and Amazon purchases. By Christmas Eve we’ve already got the tree surrounded by the various gifts we’ve bought from all corners of the globe. In years gone by these never amounted to much more than a few dollars spent on each family member, but in recent years with us all having jobs – it’s becoming increasingly common to find a garden set or an XBox crammed under a tree that once played host to such lavish gifts as bath salts and second-hand DVDs.
Christmas Eve is a blur of activity. It’s one of the rare days where Mum gets us all out of bed early and has us all in action from outset. Whether we’re in the kitchen helping with the cooking, out in the shed wrapping gifts, or on a last minute run into town for beer or supplies – there’s no shortage of work on the big day. There are a few traditional dishes that you can expect to see on the Bush family table come Christmas Eve and these include Devon Lilies, Sugar Cookies, Mini Christmas Puddings, and plenty of chips and dip.
The table all set up for our Christmas Eve dinner
After all of the cooking is done and the house is cleaned, we gather around the table to eat the fantastic foods we’ve spent the day working on and have a few drinks. There’s punch on the table and cold beers in the fridge, and we sit back and indulge in a bit of that before heading to Church. It’s a long while since I’ve considered myself particularly religious, but Christmas is the one time of year that you won’t hear me complaining about going to church. There’s something about the clear night, the crickets chirping out in the field by the church, and the unity of singing carols with friends and strangers alike that still gives Christmas the same magical feeling that had me believing in Santa as a kid.
After the service we head back home to eat some more and indulge in a tradition of my own creation – that being watching the hilarious Kiss Kiss Bang Bang. It’s hardly a festive Christmas tale, but it randomly started a few years back and we’ve made a point of continuing the tradition every year since. My brothers even keep it going in the years that I’m not home for the big day. Then it’s off to bed so that Santa/my folks can sneak out and put all of the gifts under the tree. Even with most of us in our 20s now, we still make a point of not leaving our rooms once we head to bed. We’re big kids like that.
About half of the 2009 Christmas haul
We’re back up at the crack of dawn to creep out and see what is under the tree, and as soon as it hits 6am we’re allowed to shake my parents out of their beds and get to unwrapping gifts. We always start with the stocking and then move on to taking turns to unwrap our gifts. This invariably leads to Izaak being the only one left with gifts to open at the very end. He’s spoiled.
Once the gifts are opened and safely put away in our rooms, Mum whips up some bacon and eggs for breakfast and we’re basically left to our own devices. Most years this means a nap for myself and my folks; playing around on the net for the boys, and playing with new toys for my youngest siblings. In the past two years, it’s also meant long distance calls to my girlfriends in whatever countries they have been in at the time.
We’re back up late in the afternoon for a Christmas Day lunch of prawns, lunch meats, salads, and more punch. There are Christmas crackers and bad jokes and a few frayed tempers on account of a lack of sleep, and then it’s back to a lazy day. More sleep, a DVD or two, or even just a swim out in the pool. To me it just isn’t Christmas without being stinking hot and needing the relief of a swim in the pool or a cold shower.
The family gathered around for Christmas LunchDom and I wrestling in the pool. Christmas Day 2009.
I love my Christmases at home, and being away from one for the first time was probably the hardest thing I did in 2007. Harder than stepping onto my first plane or saying goodbye to my baby brother at the airport while he cried his eyes out.
Christmas in Korea
As I said earlier, I had been in Korea less than a month by the time Christmas rolled around. I’d been lucky enough to have a good friend travel down from Seoul with some friends for my first weekend in Korea, so I’d made a few friends in my new hometown who made the whole affair just that little bit easier to cope with. Still, it was a drastic change for me to be all rugged up against the bitterly cold Korean winters after twenty-three years of celebrating the big day with the hot summer sun and a few pre-Christmas BBQs.
One of my classes gets into the Christmas spirit
Korea doesn’t really do Christmas. At least not with the same pomp and circumstance we do in the Western world. Sure, there’s Christmas decorations up everywhere and even the occasional Christmas carol – but that tingle of anticipation just isn’t there. The kids in my classes, while excited about getting a present, didn’t seem any more excited than they did on the average Friday. Rather than having a week or two to unwind around the holiday, I worked until 9.30pm on Christmas Eve and was expected back on Boxing Day for business as usual.
My mother is a wonderful woman, and I think she was well aware just how difficult that Christmas away would be for me. I’d let to get my first pay check and I was still painfully shy, so the most I’d managed to contribute to my own Christmas had been picking up a cute little tree at the nearby Lotte Mart.
My tiny little Christmas Tree. Gifts from home make it a little less sad
My mother wasn’t going to let that be the extent of my Christmas though. She sent not one but three massive care packages over. The first contained gifts, the second contained a veritable feast of non-perishable Christmas goodies, and the last came with a few extra gifts and all of the tinsel and Christmas decorations a boy could want. My characterless little apartment soon felt and looked like somebody lived in it, and uTorrent provided me with enough Christmas carols to make the place seem a little less empty on the cold nights leading up to the big day.
Six months into the future that apartment with its mattress on the floor acting as a bed and its disgusting kitchen would feel like home to me. I’d have brought girls home to that bed, cooked meals for friends in the kitchen, and had a few drunken nights in with good mates. At this point, my sole visitors had been my co-worker to help deliver a battered old PC for me to use, and my boss to drop me off after I’d touched down in the country. It felt about as far from home as anyplace could.
I’d been lucky enough to befriend Kirk (a fellow Aussie), Liz (Canadian), Brodie (another Canadian who worked with Brooke in the Ukraine), and Joy (a cute American lass I had a crush on) earlier in the month and Kirk and Liz, in particular, made an effort to ensure my Christmas wasn’t a completely depressing affair. I have fond memories of Kirk picking me up on his scooter and scaring the living daylights out of me as he weaved through traffic and jolted us wildly about while he mounted curbs on our way to Liz’s apartment for a small Christmas gathering.
On the way, we picked up a webcam so I could at least see my family for Christmas, and the ensuing night of good times was just what the doctor ordered. We each contributed a little something from home and drank until we felt a little better about our situations.
Not impressed at being photographed. Christmas Eve 2007Aussie vs. Aussie on my first white Christmas
It was these same people who would ensure Christmas Eve and Christmas Day wouldn’t be spent alone in my apartment. After finishing work on Christmas Eve I’d hitched a cab over to their dong (suburb) and met at a foreigner-friendly bar that would be our haunt for the next few months. A small horde of foreigners had gathered there to drink beer and find company with like-minded individuals, and by the time I stumbled home later that night I had a good buzz on and wasn’t feeling so sorry for myself. Misery loves company, and it particularly loves company that makes it feel a little less miserable.
Back in my apartment, I set about moving my PC so that it would be closer to my bed (thus preventing me from having to get out of bed in the icy dawn) and in doing so accidentally bumped loose the video card. Of course, I didn’t know this at the time and simply assumed my beat up second-hand PC had died. I was distraught. How was I going to watch my baby brother open his presents? How was I going to see my mother’s smiling face and tell her how much I hated being away?
I’m not ashamed to say I fell asleep in tears, and not even Die Hard on the TV could make me feel any less miserable.
I slept right through until 7 am local time, which meant that my family back home had already finished opening presents and had moved on to eating Christmas breakfast. I called them up and my mother listened in as I opened their gifts to me. She made announcements to everybody to let them know what I’d got and what I thought, and then she wished me a Merry Christmas and had to rush off to prepare the Christmas lunch. I don’t remember a great deal about what I got that Christmas. There were a few video games and a digital photo frame that (sadly) never worked.
Miserable, I wandered down the street to grab breakfast at Paris Baguette before heading to a PC room to blog about my misery on whatever online diary site I’d been using at the time. I hated Korea that day. I hated that everything was still open on Christmas Day. I hated that I had nobody to spend the day with, and that I was cold while my family were back at home sipping beers.
When I got home later that afternoon, things took a turn for the better. Frustrated at my computer, I gave it the whack that somehow bumped the video card back into place and fixed the problem. A quick viewing of the Shrek Christmas Special put me in better spirits, and soon I had a call from Kirk to invite me out for a Christmas dinner with the Cheomdan crew. Outback is hardly on a par with dinner at home with the family, but sitting around that table with new friends made me realize that my life wasn’t all doom and gloom. It wasn’t Christmas at home, and that was sad, but it was a new experience. Of the people who sat around the table with me that day – I’m still friends with most, and close friends with over half of them.
Waiting in the cold for a chance to eat
As I prepare to spend not one but two Christmases in a row out on the road, I’m reminded of how difficult it was to be away from my family and all of its traditions on the big day. Christmas Day of 2007 remains one of the toughest days of my life, but a few years on I realize that it was also a massively character developing day. I cried my tears and felt alone, but I got through it and emerged out the other side with new friends and a greater appreciation for the new life I’d started.
I often tell people that my first year in Korea was the best thing I’d ever done, and it’s because of the challenges it presented to me and how I dealt with them. I didn’t always handle things gracefully, but I always survived. And when I returned home for Christmas in 2008 I not only appreciated my family Christmas more than ever before, but I’d also come to appreciate just what I am capable of and how much stronger I was than I had ever imagined before I’d taken that chance.
Being away from friends and family is never easy, but there’s nothing to be gained from wallowing in misery. You’re not the only person out on the road spending the day alone, and there’s solace in knowing that.
I’ll spend Christmas of 2010 in Rotarua and Christmas of 2011 in South Korea, and while I’ll miss my family and all of the trimmings, I’m excited to see what the day has in store for me as I again approach it from a different angle.
Merry Christmas! I hope, whether you’re spending it with kith and kin or you’re out on the road in a strange place, it finds you happy and healthy.
With the holiday season approaching and my life soon to be filled with travel adventures and the like – I’ve enlisted a few friends to help on a little Christmas project of mine. I’ll be spending Christmas abroad in New Zealand this year, but I’ve spent the holiday alone on the other side of the world once before.
I knew I wouldn’t be alone in having had a Christmas in a strange land, so I’ve asked a few people to share their experiences with spending the biggest holiday in Western culture in a different part of the world.
First cab off the rank is Heather from over at There’s No Place Like Oz. An American lass spending her first Christmas abroad, she’s finding adjusting to a Christmas of barbeques and blistering summer days every bit as challenging as I found a Christmas of snow and bitter cold a few years ago.
Got a Christmas story you’d like to share? Let me know and you could be featured here as well!
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“Oh my gosh, how can you stand it?!”
I blink and look at the customer I’m serving, slightly confused.
“I’ve only been in the store for five minutes and this music is driving me insane. How do you deal with it all day?! I bet you’re going mad.”
The customer shakes his head and offers me a look of pity before collecting his groceries and leaving the store as quickly as his feet can carry him.
What he doesn’t know is that I am loving the Christmas playlist that’s been on loop for the past week at work. It’s helping me believe, if only for the next few hours, that though it’s warm and humid, Christmas is indeed just around the corner.
When I packed my bags and boarded a plane bound for Australia in May, I knew I was going to miss birthdays and major holidays with my family and friends back in the USA. I figured I’d miss Thanksgiving and Christmas at home, sure, but that I’d be too busy loving life in Australia for it to affect me too deeply. What I didn’t know or remotely expect was how challenging I would find the time between mid-November to the present.
Earlier today I heard “It’s Beginning to Look a Lot Like Christmas” and shook my head with a faint smile. To me, it looks like anything but Christmas.
So I want to share what Christmas does look like for me — or what it usually does. What it’s been looking like so far this year. And what I hope is yet to come for my first Christmas abroad.
The Heather of Christmases Past
Last year’s December in Virginia, USA
Christmas has always been one of my favorite times of the year. I love the holidays and am very close to my family. It may be hard for some to imagine, but at 30, this will be the first Christmas I’m not spending with my parents and sisters.
Over the years, the five of us have established a number of traditions:
For as long as I can remember, we have always had electric candles in each of the windows of the house. As the sun sets, someone walks around to turn them on.
Decorating the Christmas tree has been a family affair. When I was young, we each chose one new ornament for the tree every year. For the last 15 or so years, we always use white lights and glass ornaments.
On Christmas Eve we attend the service at our church or a friend’s church. If I’m not in the spirit beforehand, I tend to be when I leave.
After the Christmas Eve service, my family used to drive around neighborhoods that were known for light displays for an hour or so before turning home. Sadly we haven’t done that in ages.
My maternal grandfather spends the holiday with us. I’ve worn a Santa hat for as long as I can remember on Christmas day, and the first time my grandfather spent it with us, I gave one to him too. We rock the hats.
Spending time together last year
On Christmas morning we gather and each open one present and our stocking. We then take time to cook and enjoy breakfast together. We return to the tree and take turns opening presents, one at a time — something we started when I was young after my sisters and me tore through our presents in record time. We open every present except for one each. Christmas music plays in the background.
My dad loves it, so we watch “Merry Christmas, Charlie Brown” with him.
After a nice evening meal, we watch each other open our last present of the day.
For the last two years, I have been involved in the Christmas production at church. I can’t sing, but I can memorize lines like a champ. Being a part of the two casts was probably the best thing I ever did with my church. I met more people. I spent time developing relationships with those in shared scenes. I invested in my church family and was blessed for it.
Mary in 2008
We usually don’t have a white Christmas, but from time to time it happens.
Little me in the snow
The path I shoveled to our front door last year
The Heather of Holiday-season Present
Can I be honest — no sugar cookie coating of the truth? The last few weeks have been a mental and emotional struggle. I’ve only voiced these feelings a few times for fear of sounding ungrateful for the experience of living in another country for a year. But I need to be realĀ
with — and fair to — myself.
I’ve felt very sad and homesick since my parents returned home after a week-long visit in early November. Over the course of two months, I had 4 different visitors spend a total of four weeks with me. My parents’ stay marked the last of them, and I was left with this gap between November 12 and December 25 that has seemed infinitely long and lonely. When I first settled in Sydney after traveling for three and a half months, I was so busy with a new job, new flat, a few new friends, and visitors that I didn’t have time – or real reason – to feel lonely. But now the newness has worn off, the visitors are gone, and most of the friends I do have in the city are either busy or away. Loved ones back home have been posting Facebook statuses of Christmas cheer, and I haven’t been able to stop asking myself what in the world I am doing half a world away.
I need to openly acknowledge that this dip, this struggle, is just another normal (but slightly unwelcome) aspect of pursuing such a big life change. I’m not ungrateful because I would temporarily rather be somewhere else — I’m just missing home and the love and familiarity this time of year brings.
It may sound silly, but I have yet to wrap my head around the seasons in Australia being opposite to the ones at home. When I first arrived, I said it was winter, but secretly, I knew it was really summer. Now it’s December and I’m wearing sunscreen and sweating, but something in my brain refuses to fully grasp this. I suppose when your circadian rhythms have relied on certain times of year corresponding to particular seasons, it’s okay for your mind to be thrown for a loop when your new reality doesn’t match with the one you’ve always had. Just writing this feels ridiculous, but a few fellow travelers and expats have shared that they feel the same.
While I’m feeling homesick and wishing for (much) cooler weather to match my memories of the holidays, the Heather of holiday-season present hasn’t been totally sad.
A little love from home
When my parents asked what I wanted for Christmas, I didn’t have to think twice. They packed an extra bag for their visit and brought some products I was missing from home that I can’t find in Australia. They covered some of the meals we had together during their visit. And as an extra surprise, they brought my Christmas stocking and left it behind with a few goodies, making me promise I won’t touch it until Christmas day (so far, so good, but I almost peeked last night).
Last night also marked the first snow in Virginia. Reading all of the Facebook status updates about the weather was both comforting and maddening. Before I went to bed, my youngest sister emailed me with several photos. On her car she drew a heart and inside wrote “Heather”. In case I didn’t get the message, here’s the one she wrote on my car:
Signs of the holidays
I suppose I’ve had Christmas on my mind for months now! When I visited a koala hospital in August, I adopted koalas for my family as Christmas gifts. As soon as Christmas decorations appears in stores, I bought a strand of blue lights to put around the perimeter of my bedroom. A few weeks ago, I powered up the Christmas playlist on my iPod when I’m out for walks or a jog — and from time to time laugh while listening to someone sing about a white Christmas while I am wearing shorts and a t-shirt.
I’ve watched the Chrismukkah episodes of The OC. I bought a small pack of Christmas cards featuring koalas, kangaroos, and Santa — enjoying the beach, firing up the barbie, or playing cricket. And eager me had them addressed and mailed by December 2nd. At work, I secretly delight in the holiday music being piped in; I have weekly chats with a customer who plays one of the many Santas in the city; and I’ve tasted most of our Christmas range of goodies after representatives have come in to provide tastings.
The Heather of Christmas Future
With less than 3 weeks until Christmas and 10 more days of work between now and then (God help me!), I am eager to transition from homesickness to holiday cheer. One of my new friends plans to host a Christmas cookie baking day. A neighboring suburb is hosting an evening of carols on the same day as the holiday party at work. I may just head into the city tomorrow to see the decorations and tree at Martin Place.
As for Christmas day itself, I won’t be alone! Fortunate me has been invited to spend it with four different families, so if something falls through with one, I have somewhere else I can go. And after a sushi lunch with my host family, it will be time to call my own and wish them a merry Christmas and let them know how much they are loved and missed from the other side of the world.
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You can read more of Heather’s experiences in the land down-under over atĀ There’s No Place Like Oz. I’d thoroughly recommend it whether you’re a fellow traveler experiencing the country for the first time or you’re an Aussie native just curious about an outsider’s perspective on life in the great southern land.