The Sydney Return

What's not to love about this city?

There are very few feelings that compare to the way you feel when you return to the place you consider home. Sure, the thrill of discovering a new adventure is pretty much the greatest feeling in the world – but I’d say coming home is a close second.

While I grew up in the New England of NSW and will forever consider that my true home, Sydney has quickly taken its place as the city my mind drifts too when I think about home. Maybe it’s the fact I had my first real job in Australia here; maybe it’s the presence of so many friends; or maybe it’s just the fact that I feel like I belong here. As much as I love my family and the place I grew up – I was never really ‘at home’ in a more rural setting.

Sleepy Ben Lomond is where I did most of my growing up. Population? Fifty

So, last Saturday I tagged along with my sister and her husband as they trekked from Glen Innes up to Newcastle for her baby shower. I’ll be an uncle before the week is out!

Beautiful Ben Lomond. It wasn't snowing when I left, but it was damn cold. Photo by Tony Bush.

Starting at the modest hour of 11am we made quick progress and stopped off in Guyra for a little pre road-trip sustenance. Guyra is a town that has really turned itself around since I first moved to the area in 1995. It’s gone from being just another dour country town along the New England Highway to being one with a slew of fantastic little cafes and boutiques.

Our stopping off point this time was the Guyra Hot Bread Shop. Unassuming as it might seem, this particular bakery boasts some of the best gourmet meat pies and sausage rolls I’ve ever had. Definitely worth ducking off the highway if you’re a little tired of drive through McDonalds and KFC. Guyra is renowned for its potatoes and lamb as well, so don’t hesitate to sample a bit of the local flavor.

Slightly off topic – but another good option in Guyra is Trio’s Pizza and Pasta. These pizzas are literally sagging under the weight of the toppings, and they’re not cheap substitutes either. You’ll find delicious chunks of lamb, whole olives, and plenty of cheese. You’re getting far more bang for your buck than you would at Eagle Boys or Dominos.

Our eating done it was time to hit the road, and that meant the two hour trip from Glen Innes to Australia’s country musical capital, Tamworth. I slept through this particular leg of the journey rather than subject myself to more discussion of nappies and breast feeding, and the sole point of interest in Tamworth was a stop off at a public restroom. Foursquare informed me it was my first check in at a Gay Bar. Even the reddest of necks has a sense of humor, it seems.

The next leg would see us in Muswellbrook, with a slight detour to Aberdeen so we could see an infamous murder house that my brother-in-law was inordinately excited about.

Muswellbrook saw us stopping off for an hour long visit with my brother-in-law’s parents, and some hot tea and cake was a welcome reprieve from the cramped back seat. Without a great deal to contribute to the discussion of babies and house hunting though, I contented myself with alternatively surfing the net on my phone and contemplating my navel.

Nobby's Beach in Newcastle

We breezed into Newcastle at 6pm and I was saddened at the news that City Rail would not be running trains between Newcastle and Sydney due to track work. A Sid Foggs coach offered a much more comfortable (and as luck would have it, faster) means of transportation. I dozed fitfully on the ride down and was lucky enough to be awake as we crossed the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

Gazing out the window I took in the majesty of the Opera House lit up for what I assume was the Vivid Festival. I won’t lie. I got just a little bit misty eyed as I took in the city I love. 2011 has been a very tough year for me, but I felt like things were on the improve as I stepped off the bus at Central Station and my good mate Dave came across to meet me and help me with my luggage.

The Opera House at twilight

As evidence of just how sorely I needed some social activity, I opted to tag along to the very trendy Cafe Lounge on Goulborn Street despite being just a little weary from my eleven hour trek across the state. It was good to see some familiar faces (and plenty of new ones) over an ice cold beer and some remarkably good pizza.

Maybe Korea spoiled me, but I just don’t feel alive if I’m not socializing. While I loved being home with my family, I was beginning to go just a little stir crazy without things to do on the weekends and during the day. It just felt natural to be striking up conversation with new people.

I finished off my first night in Sydney with a damn fine wheat beer at the Macquarie Hotel before we called it a night.

A week on and my life has improved in leaps and bounds. I start a new job tomorrow; I’ve been busy almost every day socializing; I’ve found a new therapist; and I’ve even found time to go on two or three dates. I’ll talk more about my dating experiences (and eHarmony’s role in them) and one or two of my social outings in a later entry.

30 Day Travel Challenge: Lovable Culture

Day #2 of the 30 Day Travel Challenge and it’s a destination where I love the culture. I’ve been lucky enough to experience a pretty wide variety of cultures in my travels, and while I spent the most time in Korea, I think the most welcoming and lovable culture I’ve encountered was that of Fiji.

From the moment we stepped off the plane we were greeted by security staff and locals alike with a hearty ‘Bula’. It makes sense that a country whose main expert is tourism would be friendly, but it goes beyond that.

One of the local children poses for me on Kuata

The most telling examples of this? Interacting with people outside of the tourism industry. While killing time in a Port Denarau shopping center waiting for our bus, I was stopped coming out of the bathroom by an older Fijian man.

“Where are you from?” he asked, and I replied that I was Australian. He grinned and continued.

“Where are you going?”

“Robinson Crusoe Island,” I informed him.

With that he smiled, wished me a good vacation, and wandered off on his merry way. He didn’t try to sell me anything or offer me a cab ride? He seemed just curious as to what I was up to.

The second example took place on Kuata. After a busy day of entertaining a large group of Uni students on some kind of tour, a few of the younger male staff opted to join us for drinks on the beach. While their intentions might have included the chastity of a few of the prettier students on the island, they were always cool and courteous with all of us. I got to play chaperon and wasn’t once made to feel like I was cramping the guys’ style, and they were cool enough to invite me to come stay in their village as I was leaving the next day.

Joe and Patricia enjoying some R&R on the beach on my last night on Kuata
Heather and Kate saying goodbye to their favorite local.
A local boy waves goodbye as we leave the island.

It’s just such a welcoming and friendly culture. I didn’t see a scowl. Didn’t have a local yell at me or seem put out by my presence. I can’t wait to go back.

30 Day Travel Challenge: My Favorite Place

Could there be a harder topic to begin my 30 Day Travel Challenge with!? Choosing just one of the many fantastic locations I’ve been to as a favorite? Why not ask my mother which of her children she loves most?

Actually, that’d be easy. I set a pretty high standard.

I guess if I have to make a choice, I’d give honorable mentions to beautiful Portland in the US North West and props would also go to Cairns in North Queensland and Sydney – which I honestly think is the most beautiful city in the world. If it was a place I visited rather than lived, I’d probably give it the nod.

But my favorite? I made the call last December and my mind hasn’t changed yet. Queenstown in New Zealand has to be one of the most gorgeous places I’ve ever had the pleasure of visiting. It’s not just the pine forests or the stunning lake or the rolling hills; nor is it the town’s proximity to Milford Sound or the chill backpacker vibe of the place. It’s all of these things and so much more. The heart of New Zealand’s world renowned adventure scene – Queenstown just has something for everybody. There’s water sports and bungee jumping and canyon swings and zip-line tours and Hell Pizza and Milford Sound and so, so, so much more. I honestly can’t wait to go back.

The view of Queenstown from atop Mount Ben Lomond. Photo by Fallon Fehringer.

I won’t wax lyrical here (especially since I’m in a dodgy internet cafe) but I’ve linked to a few older entries about New Zealand, Cairns, Portland, and Sydney above. Go look!

The 30 Day Travel Challenge

Facebook is awash with these ‘thirty day challenges’. I’ve finished the music one and I’m over halfway through the movie one, so I couldn’t exactly say no when I saw my good friend Simi (from Straight from the Curls) had started a travel one.

I did a little digging on Facebook and found the list, and with an abundance of free time and no money, I thought it’d be a good way to ensure I kept generating content even while my ‘travel’ consists mostly of half hour drives from sleepy Ben Lomond to slightly more alive Glen Innes. I know, you’re all furious that I haven’t yet shared the thrill-a-minute details of this particularly adventure with you.

So, starting Monday I’ll be putting up an entry a weekday corresponding with the challenges on the 30 Day Challenge. I’ve tinkered with the spelling and grammar a little to make the list slightly more legible and changed one or two of the challenges to better fit the style of my blog – but the majority of it is unchanged.

So, buckle up and prepare for thirty straight entries about the best and the worst of where I’ve been and where I want to go next!

The 30 Day Travel Challenge

  • Day #1 – Your favorite travel destination – Queenstown, New Zealand
  • Day #2 – A destination where you love the culture – Fiji
  • Day #3 – The travel destination that makes you happy – Ben Lomond, NSW
  • Day #4 – The travel destination that makes you laugh.
  • Day #5 – A travel destination that reminds you of someone.
  • Day #6 – A travel destination where you love the food.
  • Day #7 – A travel destination where you love the people.
  • Day #8 – A travel destination where you know all/most of the sights.
  • Day #9 – A travel destination with great beer.
  • Day #10 – A relaxing travel destination.
  • Day #11 – A travel destination that reminds you of your favorite band or music video.
  • Day #12 – A travel destination you don’t see the appeal in.
  • Day #13 – A travel destination that is a guilty pleasure.
  • Day #14 – A travel destination that nobody would expect you to love.
  • Day #15 – A travel destination that best describes you.
  • Day #16 – A travel destination that you used to love, but now hate.
  • Day #17 – A travel destination that you always hear about on Facebook or TV.
  • Day #18 – A travel destination that you should hear about on Facebook or TV.
  • Day #19 – A travel destination that reminds you of somebody.
  • Day #20 – A place you go when you’re angry.
  • Day #21 – A place you go when you’re happy.
  • Day #22 – A place you go when you’re sad.
  • Day #23 – A travel destination for your wedding.
  • Day #24 – A travel destination for your honeymoon.
  • Day #25 – A travel destination that makes you laugh.
  • Day #26 – A destination that makes you want to keep fit and healthy.
  • Day #27 – A place you’ll go if you become a millionaire.
  • Day #28 – A travel destination that inspires you.
  • Day #29 – A travel destination from your childhood.
  • Day #30 – The place you grew up.
  • Day #31 (BONUS) – A travel destination that changed your life.

Darling Harbour – My Quiet Place

There are so many wonderful and iconic sites to see in Sydney. Whether you’re enjoying a relaxing ride under sunny skies across to Manly on the Manly Ferry; walking across the Sydney Harbour Bridge and soaking in the view; roaming the Botanical Gardens; exploring the Blue Mountains; sunning on Bondi; bargain hunting in The Rocks; or just exploring Sydney’s built up heart – there’s no end of things to see and do in Australia’s most beautiful city.

Melbourne, prove me wrong.

I spent a fantastic 2010 in Sydney, exploring as much of it as I could and doing everything from learning to surf to taking a photography course in The Rocks. But to me, moreso than any other part of Sydney, Darling Harbour holds a special place in my heart. Far more tourist friendly than the more easily accessible Circular Quay, Darling Harbour boasts a wide variety of bars and cafes as well as a slew of things for tourists to see and do. The famous Sydney Aquarium and Sydney Wildlife World are both by the waters, as is Sydney’s IMAX Theater.

It’s not any of this window dressing that draws me in, though. I first visited Darling Harbour on the morning I was to depart for my first Korean tour of duty. My parents, determined to have me soak in as much of Australia as I could, had put together a slap-dash tour of Sydney that ended with us doing some shopping in The Rocks before taking a ride on one of several mini trains that do circuits of the Harbour.

A chubbier and less beardy pre-Korean Chris

Two years later, I would return with Fallon in tow on her first day in the country. Having decided to take the ‘scenic route’ by walking from Circular Quay to Darling Harbour, we arrived a little tired and very hungry after taking on some pretty sights along the way. On a tight budget, we passed by all of the classier eateries and bars and ended up settling for some remarkably good Thai food from the food court. Later in the year we’d return on several occasions. I watched Australia get robbed against Ghana in the 2010 FIFA World Cup alongside 20,000 of my closest friends in the freezing winter air; I learned Ghanian dance during the FIFA Fan Fest; took in the city from a unique perspective from atop the Sky View ferris wheel; and ended one particularly exhausting run with some cocktails and decadent food at Nick’s Bar & Grill.

A different perspective on Sydney's Harbour Bridge. Photo by Fallon Fehringer.
Some unique Sydney street art on the walk from Circular Quay to Darling Harbour. Photo by Fallon Fehringer.

The details of those experiences are for another time. Today I write not about some exciting adventure or snazzy eatery, but about my return to Sydney under trying circumstances and a few quiet hours spent by Darling Harbour recharging my battery.

Dragged from the crowd to participate in Ghanian Dance at the 2010 FIFA Fanfest. Photo by Fallon Fehringer.

Those who have followed my year to date will doubtless know it’s not been the best of years. While there’s been some great adventures (such as Fiji, Jinhae’s Cherry Blossom Festival, and a visit to Seoul) – they’ve also been a number of trying ones. The end of my near two-year relationship with Fallon; struggling to readjust to Korean lifestyle; and the recent split with Kimberly and the daunting task of returning to Australia eight months earlier than I’d originally envisaged.

Back in Sydney a few days and surrounded by good friends, I was still struggling to shake the seemingly year long funk that has colored almost everything I’ve done. While I’ll go into more details on that particular topic at a later date, suffice to say I needed some time to clear my head and try and remind myself that despite a rough few months – 2011 is still young and there’s plenty more opportunities to have memorable adventures.

With my trusty Kindle at my side and some Subway (I’m still on a budget) to nourish my hunger, I settled in by the water and soaked in the unseasonable warmth. I wasn’t alone in taking some time out of the day to catch up with a good book and the ever present army of seagulls that busk for scraps of food. A school field trip milled by from time to time as they bounced from attraction to attraction, and a couple had spread out a blanket and were dangling their feet off of the boardwalk. It was an idyllic scene – a reminder that even in a city as big and bustling as Sydney, there’s time for quiet moments.

After about an hour in the sun, I decided it was time to move on. The walk from Darling Harbour up towards Sydney’s Chinatown district takes you by an impressive series of fountains and up to Tumbalong Park, and I was sure to take some time out to appreciate the bright sunny day and the cool breeze that stopped it from being oppressive. Realizing I had no place to be in particular, I opted to take a brief nap on the thick lawns of Tumbalong Park. Like before, I wasn’t the only person ducking out of the rat race for some peace and quiet. The distant sound of traffic was easily ignored, replaced instead by the cheerful chatter of tourists and the bubbling of the fountains that surround the park.

Enjoying the Sydney Sky View in July 2010. Photo by Fallon Fehringer.

The sun was on its slow, sad way down when I woke – and I decided it was time to head back to my friends’ place to get packed and ready for my return to my family home in Ben Lomond. My last stop was at Cold Rock for some ice cream – the kind of ice cream I’d daydreamed about in Korea’s land of Cold Stone and Baskin Robbins. They just don’t compare.

As the train rattled back out of Sydney’s pretty heart and into the suburbs, I already looked forward to my eventual return to Sydney. While I need to take some time out and focus on myself for the time being, my heart will always be in Sydney. I can’t wait to get back to exploring it.