Sydney

Sydney Good Food & Wine Festival

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Photo by David Wilbanks

“Wake up! Wake up!”

My housemate Dave has the look of a kid on Christmas morning on his face. I’m groggy. The combination of a 2am bed-time and a night of drunken idiocy. He places a plate on my lap and literally skips out of the room. You’d think it was free blow-job day.

I force down my breakfast of ‘soldiers and googies’ (soft boiled eggs with strips of toast) and chug a glass of Berocca. He insists it will be necessary for what lays ahead.

Before long we’re on the bus down to Darling Harbour, where the Sydney Good Food & Wine Festival is taking place at the Sydney Convention Center. Tickets clutched in hand like kids about to explore Willy Wonka’s famed factory, we meet our friend Kiran and before too long we’re inside the great hall and being assaulted with the sights, smells, and sounds of the massive celebration of food and wine.

Our first port of call is finding a place to purchase a wine glass. We got distracted along the way by various stalls offering up samples of various savory treats, but eventually purchased our $3 wine glasses. We could have opted to pay $10 for the same glass with a handy little necklace style carrier that would leave our hands free for… I’m not sure what.

Dave and I rocking Shark Hotel in 2010. We're trouble together.

The wine flows thick and fast. I’m no wine connoisseur, but before too long I’ve picked up enough to at least look a little less like the country bumpkin I know I am. I swirl it around the glass and nod appreciatively as they discuss the way the grapes are harvested and the length of time the wine has been bottled. I learn to refer to it as ‘nose’ rather than ‘smell’. I finally figure out which wines are reds and which are whites. Apparently Muscatos are for women and I discover that I like a good Riesling far more than I thought possible. Prior to the festival, my wine experiences had been mostly confined to Fruity Lexia straight from the cask…

You’re supposed to spit the wine out after you taste it, but I don’t think anybody does. The most mature concession we allow ourselves is to periodically ask for some water to rinse our glasses with. We drink it, of course. Got to stay hydrated.

Before too long we’re all nicely buzzed. We strike up conversations with the friendlier presenters and make fun of the people who were there early enough to be drunk before noon. It won’t be too long before we join them.

At around 2pm we break for ‘lunch’. For Dave it’s a $7.50 chicken burger from the cafeteria. For Kiran and I, it’s foraging like hunter gatherers at the various free sample tables. I wolf down a little kimchi at the Korean tourism stall; sample various kinds of duqqa; and consume a large quantity of tiny pieces of bread dipped in various oils and chili jams. It’s all very fancy.

Shortly after lunch my paths crossed with Tony from It’s Good Overseas and we chat briefly about the next Travel Massive meeting and make a few recommendations of stalls worth visiting. I even convinced his lovely girlfriend and her friends to join the wine tasting fun. I hope Tony had a good time wrangling that trio home at day’s end.

The rest of my afternoon is something of a blur. We eased off on the wine tasting but picked up on the ‘other alchol tasting’. I tried a variety of fruit infused vodkas; Kiran and I sampled all eight of Grand Mariner’s fine beers; I tried my first organic lager; and we finished it all off with some Peruvian spirit that I can’t remember the name of. It tasted pretty phenomenal with some lime though. We kept ourselves fed with delicious Jack’s piri piri jerky, I bought a tube of delicious toasted muesli, and Dave bought some quince paste and a few bottles of wine.

Dressed in our hobo finery for the 2010 Hobo's Ball

We lost Kiran somewhere along the way, and stumbled out into the cool evening air at around 6pm. Famished from a day of wine drinking without much food eating, we  headed up to Chinatown for some over-priced Chinese. I had kung pao chicken that wasn’t half bad though. Our night then took a turn for the ludicrous as we opted to have a man-date at Passionflower. A pair of drunk blokes sharing a tiny table at a restaurant frequented almost exclusively by couples. We cut an odd picture as he ate his brownie sundae and I polished off a plate of banana pancakes.

From there it was time to end our adventure together. I hopped the train out to my old stomping grounds in St Leonards, slept through my stop and woke up at Linfield, and finally collapsed into bed at around 10pm. Like a kid after a big day of eating candy and unwrapping presents, I was thoroughly exhausted.

Only 365 days to go.

Sydney

Partying Korean Style in Sydney

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It was about June of last year that I began to feel home-sick for Korea. I’d been back in Australia for about eight months and while my life was the best it had ever been, I found myself missing a bit of my old life as a teacher and general layabout in South Korea. I missed the cheapness of Poju (powerade + soju), missed the convenience of galbi (Korean BBQ), and the wild nights that I spent with my friends back in Gwangju.

My good mate Dave and I singing 'I Don't Wanna Miss a Thing' to one another. Nothing suss.

Having spotted a Korean BBQ restaurant on Liverpool Street during one of my many Shark Bar forays, I organized to meet my house-mate Grant one evening for a bit of a man-date. Dinner and a movie. I believe it was Inception. But if I’d been expecting 4000 won ($4) galbi and 1000 won ($1) soju, I was sadly mistaken. And while BBQ City (116-120 Liverpool Street) did look, smell, and taste exactly as I’d remembered it – the dent in my wallet was substantially higher. Still, it was fun to bust out a bit of my limited Korean and shock the staff by requesting more gochu (spicy pepper) and kimchi.

Alex (and about a dozen of my closest friends) enjoying some Korean BBQ at BBQ City in 2010.

While Sydney’s Chinatown district is quite well known, most probably aren’t aware of Sydney’s growing Korean subculture. Liverpool Street and its surrounds are littered with Korean and Korean fusion restaurants; Korean markets selling everything from samjjang (mild bean paste) to Hi Chew to Pocari Sweat to milkshake in a bag; and even a few noraebangs (Korean singing rooms). It’s not quite the same as bouncing from a Ministop to the German Bar to one of hundreds of seedy noraes in the back alleys of Gwangju or Busan – but it’s still a nice little slice of ‘home’ on the far side of the world.

BBQ City used to boast a very good noraebang (Live Karaoke was the name) above it, but I’ve since had to find alternatives. Around the corner (above Hungry Jacks) is Sydney Karaoke – which sells $20 bottles of soju, provides free snacks in true Korean style, and is always super busy on a Friday night. I have developed the embarrassing habit of striking up conversation (in broken Korean) with just about every Korean I see in the place. And the occasional Japanese person.

Fallon and Belle can scarce contain themselves as I sing the Backstreet Boy's 'I Want it That Way'. Photo by Brendan Brumby.

Chatswood on the north shore also boasts a healthy Korean population and there’s a rather well reviewed Korean restaurant by the name of Soban in Chatswood Westfield that I’ve always intended to try. There’s also a liberal spattering of Korean BBQ joints all around Town Hall station in the very heart of the city. Noraebang/karaoke wise – the best reviewed places in Sydney include the seedy Ding Dong Dang in Surry Hills, Echo Point on Pitt Street, Mizuya (expensive as hell, but very flashy) on George Street, and Strike Bowling Bar in Darling Harbour. Strike and Mizuya aren’t at all Korean, but do boast pretty fantastic facilities.

If you’re reading this and wondering what the hell noraebang is, here’s the low down. It’s karaoke in a smaller, private room. You’ve got a TV, some microphones, a selection of (mostly Korean) songs mixed in with a bunch of chart toppers, and some fancier things such as disco balls if you’re lucky. The mikes are extra echoey – which means the bad singings sound better and the good singers sound a little worse. It can be a tad frustrating if you’re a Prima Donna. But when you’re three sheets to the wind and want nothing more than to lewdly gyrate to Electric Six while shoveling unrecognizable Korean snack food into your mouth – you won’t much care that nobody can fully appreciate the haunting beauty of your rendition of Mariah Carey’s ‘Heartbreaker’.

Good times at Karaoke Live. May it rest in peace. Photo by Brendan Brumby.

So while you might not have flown halfway around the world to visit Sydney and experience Korean culture, it’s sometimes a nice reprieve from dimly lit night clubs and big screen TVs showing the latest AFL or NRL to just kick back and embrace a small slice of Australia’s multicultural style. After all, a Korean Australian is every bit as Aussie as the thong wearing beach bums or the moleskin sporting farmer’s sons.

30 Day Travel Challenge, Australia

30 Day Travel Challenge: My Happy Place

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The public restroom has recently been upgraded, but the tennis courts have long since been overtaken by weeds.

Day #3 of the 30 Day Travel Challenge asks me to write about ‘a place that makes me happy’ and, truth be told, I’ve been lucky enough that almost all of my travel experiences have featured places that make me happy. I’d be hard pressed to think of a place I’ve been that didn’t, to be completely honest.

But I’ll soldier on and choose the happiest of them.

I’ve got a lot of fond memories from Korea, Fiji, and New Zealand – but I’m going to say that the place that makes me happiest (and this is super cheesy) is visiting my family at home. Having lived abroad for extended periods of time and not really having lived particularly close to my family since I left to attend University in 2002 – my visits to sleepy Ben Lomond are always a nice reprieve from the hustle and bustle of city life interspersed with random adventures.

An idyllic spot out by our back dam. By night it's illuminated by solar powered lamps.
The town is full of old cars and buildings from more prosperous times.
One of many old graves in the Ben Lomond Catholic Cemetary

You’re not going to find Ben Lomond on many maps. Its tourist scene extends as far as a few farm stays and a nearby trout farm that boasts predictably good fishing. There’s a pair of pretty churches, the highest railway cutting in Australia, and some beautiful scenery that many people don’t expect to find in Australia. The common conception of Australia seems to be sweltering Outback scenes or beaches choked with bronzed babes – but the New England region in Northern NSW boasts the four seasons and picturesque green you’d imagine from Maine or merry old England itself.

So, while my days back in Ben Lomond rarely consist of more than a sleep in, watching TV by the fire, and maybe a jog in the early evening before the cold sets in – it’s still the place I can always be happy to return to. My family are always there for me and I know how lucky I am to have that. Whether it’s my mother making a deposit into my bank account from the Bank of Mum when I’m broke, my Dad driving me somewhere, my sister letting me crash at her house, or my brothers just being good people to hang out with – I’m never without support and love when I’m home or abroad.

So, there’s my happy place. And here’s some photos so you can maybe get an idea of why I love it so much.

The Catholic Church after snow has fallen.
The family garden covered with a light dusting of winter snow.
Once a year the Ben Lomond Recreational Ground is overtaken by teams from Ben Lomond and Glen Innes for their annual one dayer. Ben Lomond have never lost.
Sydney

Dinner, Drinks, and Dates

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My second week back in Sydney is drawing to a close and I’ve managed to pack quite a lot into my first fortnight back in the harbour city. In the space of a few weeks I’ve managed to go on a trio of fun dates with lovely gals, found myself a full time job, found a fantastic new therapist, and had more than one night of drunken debauchery with old friends and new.

I didn’t give myself much time to settle into Sydney life before I launched myself back into the single scene. ‘Back’ is a bit of a stretch though – since I’ve actually not been single in Australia since I left for Korea in 2007. And even then, pre-Korea Chris was an entirely different animal to the guy most of you would know (and hopefully love).

Earlier in the year I’d joined eHarmony on the advice of my good friend, Brendan. While I’d initially balked at the cost – he reminded me that a hundred dollars is a pretty small price to pay if I meet the girl of my dreams. And if I don’t? I’ll hopefully have met some cool people and made a few friends. That’s definitely been my experience so far.

But date numero uno was with somebody I already knew from my previous year in Sydney, and we had a pretty casual day. Sushi Train in Newtown was followed up by Gloria Jeans, and our hangout extended into the evening where we had Burgerlicious for dinner and Cold Stone for dessert. No undiscovered gems there. Most Sydneysiders will be familiar with all of the above. Newtown is a fun part of the city though. It’s basically a big hippie commune – so there’s plenty of interesting people, artsy bookstores, theater spots, buskers, and vegan cuisine along King Street. In fact, King Street boasts a damn fine selection of food including some of my favorite Indian and Mexican food in the city. Just off of King Street you’ll find heritage style terrace housing and some quiet corners that are well worth a wander.

My next date, on Wednesday, saw me in trendy Glebe for San Churro with my first eHarmony contact. While I think it’s safe to say neither of us left the date having found our soulmate – we did enjoy some delicious hot chocolate and some churros dipped in melted chocolate. A decadent way to end what had been a productive day of working on my novel.

Thursday night saw me out in Parramatta to try Spice Gourmet Thai with another eHarmony girl. I’m always a little dubious when trying a new Thai restaurant – as I’ve been burned by bad Pad Thai before. I’m pleased to report that the near two hour commute was worth it. The Pad Thai was perfect and the Panang Curry was flavorful. The ambience of the place was great as well. Candles, traditionally themed cutlery, friendly staff, and just an all around pleasant vibe made for a fun evening. One of the better Thai places I’ve found in Sydney (my favorite is still Thai Face in Crow’s Nest) and a good venue for a date.

Three hours of great conversation with a fellow traveler didn’t hurt my impression either! She may soon be joining the blogosphere as well, so I’ll keep you posted. She has some fascinating adventures planned and I am thoroughly jealous. Stay tuned.

It hasn’t all been dates, though. I’ve managed to pack in quite a few friendly hangouts as well. My first Friday back in the city featured a house party and all of the usual debauchery. There was drunken Twister (which I somehow managed to win – cheating may have been involved); drinking entirely too much red wine from the bottle in typically classy fashion; and a 2am Burger King run that hit the spot as only drunken fast food can. I woke feeling fine for my Saturday visit to the Eveleigh Markets in Redfern, while Dave was a tad the worse for wear as he prepared for the four hour train ride down to Canberra.

Just a sample of the drunken adventures I’m expecting to have in 2011. This was the Hobo’s Ball in 2009.

I’ve got a separate entry on markets planned, but I was pleasantly surprised by Eveleigh’s selection of food. It’s basically a big farmer’s market out of the old carriageworks – so you get a double whammy of good food and a dash of Sydney’s rich railway history at the same time. We had some fantastic coffee (there are a few good coffee spots) and indulged in some of the famous egg & bacon rolls. Definitely worth a look.

Saturday night and I was out to support Australia’s team for the 2011 American Football World Cup in Austria. The guys are raising money to get themselves to and from the tournament, and while they don’t seem terribly confident of winning – I know they’ll be out there representing the great southern land against the likes of the USA and Mexico with pride. A night of trivia, beers, and pretty damn good pub food at the Alexandria Hotel followed – and while we only managed a respectable fourth, my mate Rob did manage to win some crockery courtesy of the door prize. He feigned indifference, but I know he was secretly overjoyed.

So, that’s my first week back in Sydney. There’s been no big adventures or remarkable occurences, but I’m loving life back here. I’m meeting new people, embracing single life (and there’s an article on that coming soon too), and soon I’ll have some money for actual adventures! There’s a visit from my friend Heather from The Kimchi Chronicles as well as a travel challenge from another Heather (from No Place Like Oz) to look forward to. Exciting times lay ahead!

Australia, Sydney

The Sydney Return

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What's not to love about this city?

There are very few feelings that compare to the way you feel when you return to the place you consider home. Sure, the thrill of discovering a new adventure is pretty much the greatest feeling in the world – but I’d say coming home is a close second.

While I grew up in the New England of NSW and will forever consider that my true home, Sydney has quickly taken its place as the city my mind drifts too when I think about home. Maybe it’s the fact I had my first real job in Australia here; maybe it’s the presence of so many friends; or maybe it’s just the fact that I feel like I belong here. As much as I love my family and the place I grew up – I was never really ‘at home’ in a more rural setting.

Sleepy Ben Lomond is where I did most of my growing up. Population? Fifty

So, last Saturday I tagged along with my sister and her husband as they trekked from Glen Innes up to Newcastle for her baby shower. I’ll be an uncle before the week is out!

Beautiful Ben Lomond. It wasn't snowing when I left, but it was damn cold. Photo by Tony Bush.

Starting at the modest hour of 11am we made quick progress and stopped off in Guyra for a little pre road-trip sustenance. Guyra is a town that has really turned itself around since I first moved to the area in 1995. It’s gone from being just another dour country town along the New England Highway to being one with a slew of fantastic little cafes and boutiques.

Our stopping off point this time was the Guyra Hot Bread Shop. Unassuming as it might seem, this particular bakery boasts some of the best gourmet meat pies and sausage rolls I’ve ever had. Definitely worth ducking off the highway if you’re a little tired of drive through McDonalds and KFC. Guyra is renowned for its potatoes and lamb as well, so don’t hesitate to sample a bit of the local flavor.

Slightly off topic – but another good option in Guyra is Trio’s Pizza and Pasta. These pizzas are literally sagging under the weight of the toppings, and they’re not cheap substitutes either. You’ll find delicious chunks of lamb, whole olives, and plenty of cheese. You’re getting far more bang for your buck than you would at Eagle Boys or Dominos.

Our eating done it was time to hit the road, and that meant the two hour trip from Glen Innes to Australia’s country musical capital, Tamworth. I slept through this particular leg of the journey rather than subject myself to more discussion of nappies and breast feeding, and the sole point of interest in Tamworth was a stop off at a public restroom. Foursquare informed me it was my first check in at a Gay Bar. Even the reddest of necks has a sense of humor, it seems.

The next leg would see us in Muswellbrook, with a slight detour to Aberdeen so we could see an infamous murder house that my brother-in-law was inordinately excited about.

Muswellbrook saw us stopping off for an hour long visit with my brother-in-law’s parents, and some hot tea and cake was a welcome reprieve from the cramped back seat. Without a great deal to contribute to the discussion of babies and house hunting though, I contented myself with alternatively surfing the net on my phone and contemplating my navel.

Nobby's Beach in Newcastle

We breezed into Newcastle at 6pm and I was saddened at the news that City Rail would not be running trains between Newcastle and Sydney due to track work. A Sid Foggs coach offered a much more comfortable (and as luck would have it, faster) means of transportation. I dozed fitfully on the ride down and was lucky enough to be awake as we crossed the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

Gazing out the window I took in the majesty of the Opera House lit up for what I assume was the Vivid Festival. I won’t lie. I got just a little bit misty eyed as I took in the city I love. 2011 has been a very tough year for me, but I felt like things were on the improve as I stepped off the bus at Central Station and my good mate Dave came across to meet me and help me with my luggage.

The Opera House at twilight

As evidence of just how sorely I needed some social activity, I opted to tag along to the very trendy Cafe Lounge on Goulborn Street despite being just a little weary from my eleven hour trek across the state. It was good to see some familiar faces (and plenty of new ones) over an ice cold beer and some remarkably good pizza.

Maybe Korea spoiled me, but I just don’t feel alive if I’m not socializing. While I loved being home with my family, I was beginning to go just a little stir crazy without things to do on the weekends and during the day. It just felt natural to be striking up conversation with new people.

I finished off my first night in Sydney with a damn fine wheat beer at the Macquarie Hotel before we called it a night.

A week on and my life has improved in leaps and bounds. I start a new job tomorrow; I’ve been busy almost every day socializing; I’ve found a new therapist; and I’ve even found time to go on two or three dates. I’ll talk more about my dating experiences (and eHarmony’s role in them) and one or two of my social outings in a later entry.