G'day! I'm Chris. I left my home in rural Australia back in 2007 to pursue a life less ordinary.
I specialize in ambitious travel - bucket list worthy journeys such as the Great US Road Trip, the ultimate African safari, and following the length of the Silk Road.
When I completed my 2016 in review post last year, I had plenty of cause for optimism about 2017.
I’d just started dating Adventures Around Asia and was preparing to make the big move to Beijing to see where our relationship would take us.
We had planned a trip to Sumatra as a kind of ‘test run’ for our burgeoning relationship and I had plans for 2017 to be one filled with travel.
While there were some rather drastic drawbacks during the year (including a broken arm and getting scammed by a Chinese dentist), there were also some huge wins.
My work with Shadows of Africa reached new heights, I got to spend time with my brother and my awesome nephew when they moved to Beijing, I traveled, I hiked the Kumano Kodo, and plenty more.
2017 was definitely a year that I’ll look back upon with great fondness.
Adventures in Sumatra
The year started off with Richelle and I headed to Sumatra for the Chinese New Year vacation. While my location independent lifestyle means I can travel whenever I like, Richelle’s job in Beijing only afforded her two weeks in which to explore Indonesia’s largest island.
Even with all of the day-long, bumpy bus rides through mountainous jungle, we still managed to cram a lot into our time in Sumatra.
We spent a magical few days exploring the quiet beauty of Lake Toba, trekked for orangutans in Bukit Lawang, and finished it all off with some well-earned beach and scuba time on Pulau Weh. Thanks to the fantastic Rubiah Tirta Divers for making our four dives possible!
We fell just a little bit in love with Sumatra’s rugged beauty and off the beaten path charm. While we were far from the only tourists exploring the island (apparently the Chinese love Sumatra too), we were definitely away from the worst of the crowds that tend to spoil southeast Asia during the Chinese New Year.
A Broken Arm and the Benefits of Socialism
Sadly, our time in Indonesia wasn’t without our hiccups.
I somehow managed to break my arm when I took a rather dramatic tumble from the top of our dive boat onto the deck below. While it didn’t feel like I’d broken it at the time, I was soon going to regret traveling without travel insurance.
With no hospital on the island, we had to fly back to China with my arm in a makeshift sling. The doctors in China confirmed that not only was it broken – it was such a bad break that I’d need surgery within two weeks to avoid permanent damage.
The price? The princely sum of 30,000rmb (almost $6,000 AUD).
Thankfully for me, Australia’s glorious socialism came to the rescue. A quick call home informed me that I could get the surgery in Australia for free, so all I needed to do was pay for an expensive last minute flight back to Australian soil.
Newcastle’s John Hunter Hospital took great care of me (especially the lovely nursing team), but my time there was a blur of hunger (three days nil by mouth will do that), morphine delirium, and shuffling down to the emergency room after hours to steal their WiFi.
With my arm still in a sling, it was time to bid farewell to my life in Nanjing. It felt surreal to be back in my tiny Nanjing apartment after six months on the road, but I managed to pack my life into large hessian sacks and get them to the post office with the help of my former Chinese teacher. Thanks, Mia!
It was then time to bid farewell to all of the amazing friends I’d made across two stints in China’s southern capital. While I was definitely excited to be moving to Beijing, it was hard to say goodbye to a city that had given so much to me over the years.
My move to Beijing was a big one for me. With Richelle and I only dating for a few months, it was obviously a lot of pressure to put on a new relationship. Still, it beat having to commute five hours to see one another.
The move was somewhat softened by the fact that my brother, Dominik, his partner, and my adorable nephew, Elliot would also be moving to Beijing.
Between snowstorms, jittery landlords, a screaming toddler, and the inevitable Chinese bureaucracy, we managed to find not one, but two apartments.
We spent a whole fortnight in our first apartment before the landlord decided she didn’t like foreigners (through no fault of ours), so it was off to the sleepy little Chegongzhuang neighbourhood for us!
I’d barely been in Beijing a month when Richelle and I were invited on a press trip to Lingshui in Hainan.
While I’d been to Hainan twice before (once back in 2008 and once for Christmas in Sanya), it was a really fun experience to see a totally new side to the ‘Hawaii of China’.
Over the course of a week we engaged in cultural activities, stayed in some gorgeous hotels, and ate far more banquet dinners than is healthy for a boy trying to lose a little weight.
It was a somewhat frustrating press trip experience for us, as the Lingshui Tourism Board couldn’t seem to decide if it was a press trip (for Richelle and I), a competition (for an unlucky Dutch pair who had expected to relax), or a video and photo opp (for all of us).
The breakneck speed with which we explored and the regimented schedule meant it was hard to fully enjoy the many charms of Lingshui, but it was not without its perks.
Hopeless romantic that I am, I may have dropped the “L” word for the first time while Richelle and I were enjoying our private plunge pool at the stunning Narada Perfume Bay.
Hot on the heels of my rather hasty confession of love, Richelle’s landlord decided to evict everybody a little ahead of their original lease expiration.
This meant that Richelle and I became roommates a little earlier than expected, but I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t secretly pleased by the news.
Ever since Richelle and I spent a week hanging out in Beijing together last year, I’d been more than a little taken with her.
And while we’ve been together just over 14 months at the time of writing this, I’ve known for quite some time that she’s the girl I want to spend my life with.
Our time living together in Beijing has been a lot of fun.
We’ve encouraged one another to greater heights with our work, we’ve eaten a lot of delicious food, we’ve led Beijing brewery tours for Lost Plate Tours, explored hidden corners of the city, hiked the Wild Great Wall more times than I can count, and laughed each and every day.
We also had the pleasure of living with my brother, Dom, his partner, Bronte, and my always entertaining nephew, Elliot (aka Etty aka Egg aka Christopher Eggleston aka The Ettimal).
Sharing an apartment that one could generously call ‘cozy’ with three adults and a baby wasn’t always easy, but I’ll definitely remember our tiny little Beijing abode with more fondness than frustration now that we’ve moved out.
My first visa run of 2017 saw me making a quick jaunt across to South Korea.
With flights to Seoul being the cheapest option, I opted to spend two nights and one jam-packed day exploring the South Korean capital.
It definitely felt like a homecoming to be back in the country that kick-started my love of travel and taught me so much about myself, and I spent a full day visiting palaces, eating gimbap triangles, and reminiscing about my first travel love.
Not long after my return to China, I heralded the siren song of beers with the boys back in Nanjing.
With Richelle only ever having made a day trip to my former stomping grounds, it seemed a good time to kill two birds with one stone: show her around the city and put an end to the ceaseless nagging from Racist Rory, Cerebral Hoggsy, Dutchy, Greggles, Kiwi Mike, and the rest of the reprobates I called friends during my time there.
After a boozy Saturday with the lads, we spent a more sedate Sunday exploring Purple Mountain, the original Ming Tomb, and the Mausoleum of Dr. San Yat Sen.
As somebody who has blogged before about things to do in Nanjing, it was fun to actually finally do some of them.
It was also good to recharge my social batteries, as Beijing is a hell of a lot harder to make friends in than Nanjing was. In fact, writing this post after leaving Beijing, I can count on one hand the friends I made in the city. Sheesh!
Experiencing Macau
My next visa run saw me making a run down to Macau. Far from just being a “Chinese Vegas”, I was charmed and pleasantly surprised by just how many things to do in Macau I managed to find.
Based out of the gorgeous Sofitel at Ponte 16 (read my Sofitel Macau review), I had a great time wandering labyrinthine alleys, visiting historic sites, and eating all of the things.
Hot on the heels of my return from Macau, it was time to play host and tour guide to not one but two sets of parents.
My mother and father, youngest brother, and foster sister, Sherry made their way across to China to introduce Sherry to her native land and do a wee bit of tourism, so Richelle and I took advantage of her newfound freedom to show them around local landmarks such as the Summer Palace and Forbidden City.
While a lot of this felt a little ‘old hat’ to us jaded Beijing ‘locals’, it’s always fun to see local landmarks through fresh eyes.
A highlight of my family’s visit was undoubtedly the chance to check off another section of the Great Wall of China, as we headed to New Shuicheng for a day of boat rides, hiking, and exploration.
The day after my family left to continue their journey to Dalian and Shanghai, Richelle’s parents breezed into town for our scheduled exploration of Beijing, Xi’an, and Yunnan.
It was a bit nerve-wracking meeting John and Nicole, but I like to think we hit it off over the course of our two week journey. Having failed to make a good impression on two sets of parents in the past, it was nice to not botch this one!
Our time in Beijing felt a little bit like a replay of my parents’ visit, as we again paid a visit to the Forbidden City, wandered the hutongs, and headed out to the Great Wall.
Our Great Wall trip was beyond epic, however, as we tackled the wild Jiankou to Mutianyu stretch of wall and put our legs and cardio to the test. What a hike!
Exploring Yunnan and Xi’an
After Beijing, it was off to China’s first capital, Xi’an for a bit of exploration.
While the Terra Cotta Warriors are the most well-known attraction in this picturesque city, I actually loved the city itself. From the bustling Muslim Market to the city wall to the cute art district we called home for our time there, it was plain to see why Xi’an belongs on any China bucket list worth its salt.
After Xi’an, it was off to another corner of China I’ve been dying to explore: Yunnan.
A land of towering mountains, canal cities, and unbreakable calm, it was easy to see how it landscapes might have inspired the Kung Fu Panda movies. Yunnan is just breathtaking, and the food is stellar to boot.
The highlights of our time there? Hiking Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, shopping in Xizhou and Lijiang, and exploring the criminally underrated Blue Moon Lake.
The family visits and exploration were tinged with more than a little sadness, however.
Midway through my trip with Richelle’s family (and midway through my parent’s solo trip to Shanghai), we received word that my terminally ill foster brother, Ben had lost his long struggle.
While we’d always known that “Spongebob” wasn’t going to be with us forever, it came as a nasty surprise to have him pass away in the three weeks my family had taken away. We’d all hoped the little dude would see one more Christmas with us, but his struggle was finally over.
It was difficult to be so far away from my family for all of this.
While my parents were frantically trying to cut short their trip and fly home to make arrangements, I was in Yunnan.
When the funeral came and went, I had to have my brother-in-law read my eulogy. My Chinese visa wouldn’t allow me to attend without forcing me to apply for an all new visa.
Ben came into my family back in 2009. While you’d usually see somebody grow as time passed, Ben only shrank. His condition meant he was always going to die young and it was heartbreaking to see him lose first his ability to walk and then his ability to use his hands, communicate, and eat.
He’s in a better place now (and we had a somber Christmas vigil to make sure he didn’t spend the holiday alone), but damned if I don’t miss him racing around the house on that damned trike of his.
An Anniversary Cricket Tournament in Sanya
October saw Richelle and I preparing to celebrate one year together.
Early on in our relationship, we’d determined that birthdays and anniversaries would be an opportunity for us to give the gifts of experiences. Where Richelle treated me to a Beijing walking tour for my birthday in 2016, I’d taken her for a romantic Great Wall Picnic for her birthday in April.
However, with our anniversary coinciding with the huge Chinese National Week holiday, we decided to postpone the affair and instead combine our anniversary escape with the annual Sanya Sixes Cricket Tournament.
While the cricket wasn’t of the quality to warrant a mention, Richelle and I definitely enjoyed some time on the beach.
We sampled delicious Russian food, slept late, soaked in the sun, and just enjoyed a holiday in which we didn’t feel obliged to write about anything. It was bliss!
Despite the hit to my wallet, I was beyond excited for the opportunity to hike the Kumano Kodo Iseji route. In conjunction with the Mie Prefecture Tourism Board, we spent two amazing, challenging, life-changing weeks exploring the Kumano Kodo and the stunning prefecture that it calls home.
You can read all about hiking the Kumano Kodo here and on Richelle’s blog (she wrote a great post about her experience), but I think pictures tell the story best.
It was one of the most challenging things I’ve ever done, but also one of the most unforgettable.
We hiked 170kms through rain and shine. We tackled mountains, wandered through bucolic farming villages, soaked in onsen, slept on tatami floored ryokan, ate fresh sashimi, and loved every minute of it.
After our time off the beaten path was done, it was time for Richelle and I to play tourist in some of Japan’s more famous cities: Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka.
With our handy JR Rail Passes in hand, we embarked on two weeks exploring cities and landmarks we’d daydreamed about since we’d got our first passports.
In Tokyo, we were lucky enough to stay in the lovely Park Hotel and Andon Ryokan, both of which offered something totally unique that I’ll write about later this week.
In one week we took a romantic birthday cruise (thanks, babe!), went shopping in Akihabara, people-watched in Harajuku and Shinjuku, drank sparkling sake on Golden Gai, ate yakitori on “Piss Alley”, and found ourselves overwhelmed by the crowds on more than one occasion.
After two weeks having an entire pilgrimage to ourselves, Tokyo was definitely a tough adjustment!
Then, it was off to Kyoto for geisha spotting and temple hopping. Based out of the gorgeous Hakuto, we fell more than a little bit in love with Kyoto’s quiet charm.
And while some of its more popular tourist attractions were definitely as crowded as we’d dreaded, having Fushimi Inari to ourselves at dawn and spotting geisha in Kamishichiken definitely made up for the jostling we received at other spots.
Our last stop was Osaka. While the city itself wasn’t as enchanting as Tokyo or Kyoto, we did enjoy a day trip to see Himeji Castle and take one of the best food tours we’ve ever taken.
Seriously, Inside Osaka Tours was amazing! Yuki was not only super personable and knew the city backwards, he also got us off the beaten path to eat some amazing food.
We even tried chicken sashimi and fugu (pufferfish) and lived to tell the tale!
After all of our adventures, it felt damned good to return to my sleepy little mountain village in rural Australia.
Christmas with my family has always been amazing, and it was made all the better by being able to share that with Richelle.
Backyard BBQs, afternoon cricket or softball, more gifts and food than you can shake a cat at, and we finished it all off with three nights at the always fun Green Valley Farm.
2017 saw me fall in love, revisit old favorites, explore new vistas, and endure some pretty painful arm surgery.
2018 is already shaping up to be a pretty spectacular year as well.
Richelle and I are off to Vegas with my Mum in February before visiting her folks in California and attending a wedding in Atlanta. We’ll then take some time to explore her backyard (Seattle).
Then, we’re off to Tanzania for an undisclosed amount of time to treat Richelle to her first safari and continue my work with Shadows of Africa.
Beyond that? Who knows!
Maybe Eastern Europe for TBEX Europe.
Maybe some time living in Bali to do the digital nomad thing.
Maybe undertaking another epic pilgrimage in Spain.
Whatever happens, I’m excited for what lies ahead.
I often get emails, Tweets, or Facebook messages from people asking me for my tips on what to do in Sydney. While I’ve written about it in the past, I thought I’d condense that into how I’d recommend spending three days in Sydney for a first-timer.
Money not being an option, I’d love to visit Sydney without being a burden to the couches of my many wonderful friends in the city. There is an abundance of serviced apartments in Sydney that I’d love to check out.
Quick Tip: If you’re visiting Sydney as part of a trip to Australia and want to save money on data and airtime, you should check GoSim for an international prepaid Sim card.
Climbing the Sydney Harbour Bridge at Sunset
One of my most cherished memories of Sydney has to be the evening my friends and I climbed the Sydney Harbour Bridge at sunset. Bridge Climb runs climbs up and down the Harbour Bridge at a variety of times, but to me, the best way to take in Sydney Harbour is as the sun is setting and the city’s lights begin to twinkle into life.
At $363 – $393 per climber, it’s a pricey way to take in the city skyline, but I can’t imagine a better way to start a dream weekend in Sydney than with one of the best views you’ll ever find.
Of course, if you get into Sydney a little earlier, you can take advantage of the more affordable $298 – $323 rate for day climbs or, save yourself a wad of cash by going after dark for just $258 – $283 per person.
My friends and I atop the Sydney Harbour Bridge in 2010.
An Asian Experience for Dinner
Once you’ve completed the three hour round trip, you’ll doubtless have worked up quite a hunger. Not being a particularly fancy guy, I’m going to suggest heading into the city to try out some of Sydney’s amazing Asian cuisine. Chinatown boasts both authentic and ‘Aussie style’ Chinese food, but my personal preference would be for some Korean BBQ. BBQ City on Liverpool Street does great, authentic Korean galbi and seomgyeopsal.
A Day in Manly
Get up bright and early on Saturday morning to get as much out of your day as possible. Take the train or walk down to Circular Quay to grab the ferry across to Manly.
Far from being a simple means of transportation, I’m of the belief that the Manly ferry is an experience all of its own. As the wind whips through your hair and you take in one of the most iconic views in the world, you can’t help but get energized for the day ahead.
The ferry across to Manly offers a unique perspective of the Opera House.
Once in Manly, you’ve got plenty of options. The Manly Sea Life Sanctuary is a good choice if you’ve got kids, but I’d rather head straight down ‘The Corso’ to grab some supplies and hit the beach.
Whether you pick up breakfast at one of the many cafes and takeaways on the street or decide to grab supplies from Coles for your own breakfast BBQ, head on down to Manly Beach to stake out your spot on the popular Sydney beach.
If you’re looking to learn to surf in Sydney, there are plenty of options in this area as well. I took my first surf lessons on Dee Why beach and had a great time.
If you opted to pick up some BBQ supplies, nearby Shelly Beach is my absolute favourite place in Sydney for a little quiet time. The calmer waters and shady beach are great for families or people just wanting to unwind with a good book.
Shelly Beach is a quiet corner of the city, and a real gem.
With the sun starting to get hot overhead, it’s time to avoid a nasty sunburn and seek shelter. There are plenty of great places to grab a bite on this side of the Sydney Harbour, but my favourite would be the 4 Pines Brewery – which is conveniently located adjacent to the ferry terminal. With a menu of delicious burgers and plenty of locally brewed beers, it’s a great place to rehydrate and refuel before returning to the city.
An Afternoon in Sydney
After taking the ferry back to Circular Quay, you’ve got quite a few options as to how you’d like to spend your afternoon.
Head left and you can wander past the Sydney Opera House (with a pit stop, perhaps, at the wonderfully situated Opera Bar) and then continue on with a walk through the Royal Botanical Gardens. Once you’ve completed your tour of this popular Sydney location, you’re right in the heart of the city. Do you want to wander the shady paths of Hyde Park or do a little shopping in the city?
Head right from the ferry terminal and you’re headed into the historic Rocks district of Sydney, full of old world charm and some of the city’s best bars and restaurants. A personal favourite of mine in this area is Hart’s Pub, which has an abundance of locally brewed beers as well as some of the best food you’ll find in a Sydney bar.
A longer walk will take you around to Darling Harbour, one of my favourite places in Sydney. With the IMAX cinema, plenty of restaurants, and the nearby Tumbalong Park at your fingertips – there’s plenty to keep you occupied for the afternoon.
Dinner in Newtown
You’ve seen Manly and you’ve seen the hustle and bustle of the CBD, so why not hop a train out to the city’s inner-west to see the vibrant, hipster haven that is Newtown? King Street boasts more restaurants and pubs than you can poke a stick at – and walking along the street is like participating in Sydney’s largest buffet. Whether your tastes are for Thai or Mexican, Vegan or Greek, or just a humble pub meal – the alt set in Newtown have you covered.
If you’re not completely worn out, grab a few quiet beverages at one of the local bars or – if you’re feeling brave – head over to Kelly’s on King Street to belt out some karaoke tunes.
Spend Your Sunday in the Blue Mountains
I guess it’s not technically Sydney, but the Blue Mountains are close enough that you’d be crazy not to see them while you were in Sydney. Taking a train out to the region is affordable, and once you’re out there amid the clean mountain air and the stunning views, you’re going to forget that the train ride was just a tad tedious.
A day in the Blue Mountains can be whatever you want it to be. Hikers are going to be spoiled for choice, obviously; but shutterbugs will find there’s plenty of inspiration to be found as well. The quaint towns of Leura and Katoomba boast countless cafes, boutiques, and galleries to entertain the quieter set – and adrenaline junkies might want to try the face first plummet that is the Scenic Railway.
I’ve written before about exploring the Blue Mountains, so head on over and see what makes this such a vital day trip when spending a weekend in Sydney.
Need some help planning your Sydney trip? kkday.com has some great tours and activities!
Your Say
How would you spend your dream weekend in Sydney? With 48 hours and money not being an object, how would you best ‘sell’ Sydney to a first timer?
When we first began preparing to hike the Kumano Kodo Iseji Route, we had the safety net of knowing that the lion’s share of preparation and planning had been done by Mie Prefecture Tourism Board.
Even with all of that pre-planning done by locals, however, we were often blindsided by a particularly tough day’s hiking or the lack of signage that made hiking the Kumano Kodo Iseji such an adventure.
Over the course of two weeks and 170 kilometers, Adventures Around Asia and I both fell in love with Mie Prefecture and the stunning Iseji Route that saw us travel from Ise Jingu to Kumano Hayatama Taisha.
I’m glad we didn’t have to hike the entire route in this.
We wanted others to be able to experience the feeling of triumph that we felt when we stood atop Yakiyama, to utter the same ‘ahhhh’ of satisfaction when they slipped into a piping hot onsen after a frigid day’s hiking, and to savour the same delicious ryokan meals that started and ended each of our days.
While we fell in love, we realized that the hike isn’t easy to arrange without help. The lack of signage, the difficulty in booking your own accommodation, and the scarcity of information can make it difficult to plan your own hike.
What follows is a combination of the itinerary we were provided by the Mie Prefecture Tourism Board, the notes that were taken by Following the Arrows, and our own experiences hiking the trail.
While it’s perfectly possible to finish the hike in as few as seven days, we’ve designed this two-week Iseji Kumano Kodo itinerary to be an experience that is equal parts challenging and relaxing.
What good is there getting off the beaten path if you’re too exhausted to appreciate it?
As we’re going to need an early start on day one of our pilgrimage, you’re going to want to be in Ise at least the night before.
The easiest way to get to Ise is to take a train from a hub city such as Nagoya, which lies just ninety minutes away on a fast train.
We spent our first night at the lovely Hinode Ryokan (details above). Not only is this one walking distance from both the train station and the Geku portion of Ise Grand Shrine, but it also has lovely onsen facilities and does a fantastic breakfast.
It’s also walking distance to a number of great local restaurants, so be sure to treat yourself to a hearty meal ahead of your first day’s hike!
Utterly spoiled. Ryokan meals are amazing.
Day 1: Ise to Tamaru
Distance: 23 kilometers (or 13.5 kilometers without Futami Okitama Shrine)
Highlights: Sunrise at Futami Beach, Futami Okitama Shrine, Ise Grand Shrine, and shopping on Okage Yokocho.
Sunrise at Futami Beach
It’s a bright and early start for our first day on the Iseji Kumano Kodo, as we’re setting out to see the sunrise over Futami Beach.
Traditionally, pilgrims would start their long journey south by washing away their past misdeeds in the doubtlessly chilly waters of the Ise Bay, but we won’t be doing anything quite that drastic.
Instead, we’re going to grab a taxi out to Futami Beach and the neighbouring shrine. This is likely to be a $40 – $50 USD taxi ride, so you may wish to book accommodation close to the beach (Cho Ko En or Nishoken look decent at a glance) or take the train from Iseshi Station to Futamino-Ura Station, which will set you back around $2 USD.
If you time this right, you’ll get to witness a spectacular sunrise setting fire to the ocean and creating a startling silhouette behind the famous Meoto Iwa (wedded rocks) of Futami Okitama Shrine.
Sunrise over Futami Beach is well worth the early start.
Futami Okitama Shrine
Once you’ve snapped your photos and soaked in the ambiance of the rising sun, you’re going to walk to the nearby Futamiokitama Shrine. You’ve doubtless seen plenty of it from afar during the sunrise, but this really is one of the most charming little shrines you’re going to encounter along the way.
The shrine is home to a number of figurines of frogs, who are seen as auspicious ahead of the long journey south to the Kumano Sanzan. While the shrine is dedicated to Toyoukehime, the goddess of food, many couples come here to pray for happy marriages. Pilgrims would also come here to pray for rebirth along the Kumano Kodo Iseji Route.
A particular highlight of this shrine, aside from its seaside location, is the famous Meoto Iwa (wedded rocks). A pair of rocks surrounded by churning ocean and ‘wedded’ by shimenawa rope, they not only symbolize marriage in the Shinto faith but are also representative of the marriage of Izanagi and Izanami, the god and goddess responsible for creating the Japanese islands.
Each shrine on the Kumano Kodo Iseji Route offers up something unique. These ‘wedded rocks’ caught my eye.
How to Pray at a Shinto Shrine
As this may be your first visit to a traditional Shinto shrine, it’s important to know the proper way to pay your respects. The rules are pretty simple:
When passing through a Torii gate, it is traditional to pause and bow.
Walk on either the left or the right of the path. The centre is reserved for the gods.
All shrines will have a place where you can wash your hands ahead of praying. To do this, take a dipper with your right hand and collect some water. Tip a little onto first your left hand and then your right. Finally, pour a little into your left hand and lift it to your mouth as if to drink.What water is left in your ladle should be emptied by lifting it upright so that it drains down the handle.
Upon approaching a shrine, it is traditional to toss your monetary donation into the box.
Bow twice, clap twice, and then bow once.
As you exit the shrine, be sure to turn back towards the shrine and bow as you pass under the Torii gate.
There are variations on this practice, but the above ought to put you in good stead for your shrine visits. You can read a more comprehensive guide to praying at Shinto shrines here.
Once you’re done paying your respects at Futami Okitama, you have a decision to make. Do you want to start your day with a 9.5 km walk or take it easy by taking a taxi or the train to Ise Jingu Naiku?
We took the taxi, but the two-hour walk ought to be a good way to wake yourself up and work up an appetite for breakfast. If you time it right, you’ll arrive at Ise Jingu Naiku at around 9 am.
Regardless of how you approach Naiku Shrine, prepare to be amazed by the sheer scale and grandeur of one of Japan’s holiest sites. Home to more than 125 shrines, Ise Jingu is a twin shrine made up of the Naiku (Inner) and Geku (Outer) Shrines. It is visited by more than 7 million people every year, but its size means that it only really feels crowded on major holidays.
You’ll cross underneath the main Torii and then walk across a bridge which offers a stunning view of the river and the forested banks. It’s in the chill waters of the river that you’ll wash your hands and mouth ahead of praying, making for a different experience to Futami Okitama.
You’ll then continue on to the main shrine, which is dedicated to Amaterasu O-Mikami, the Sun Goddess. Here, you’ll make your monetary offering and pray.
All told, you can pay your respects in as little as half an hour, but you might wish to take your time as you stroll through the peaceful gardens that surround the shrines.
Visitors to Ise Jingu can wash their hands in the river before making their offerings.
Breakfast on Okage Yokocho
Located just outside the entrance to Ise Jingu Naiku, the bustling shopping street of Okage Yokocho is a great place to grab a late breakfast or do a little souvenir shopping.
Designed to recreate the bustling little market that would have existed around the shrine during the Edo and Meiji periods, Okage Yokocho is a little window into a time when as much as 25% of Japan’s population visited the shrine each year.
While some if its stores tend to be a little touristy for my liking, the traditional architecture and the delicious food offerings along the road are worth a visit.
We especially enjoyed the sweet akafuku mochi and the flavourful croquettes from the 100-year-old Butasute butchery. For some more foodie inspiration, check out Dig Japan’s guide to what to eat in Ise.
Deliciously sweet mochi on Okage Yokocho. Photo from Adventures Around Asia.
Ise Jingu Geku
Our next stop is a relatively short 5 km walk away, as we’ll trade the Inner Shrine for the Outer Shrine. This isn’t an especially inspiring walk, as you’ll mostly be walking along the side of busy roads and down quiet side streets.
If you’re collecting teku teku (read more about them in the Ultimate Kumano Kodo Iseji Guide), you’ll find your first two along the way: one in a tourist information centre and one at a quiet little shrine where you might want to stop and pray.
The Geku (Outer) shrine is dedicated to Toyouke-no-O-mikami, who served as a kind of assistant to Amaterasu O-mikami, who is interred at the Naiku shrine.
As you did at the Naiku Shrine, you’ll pay your respects in the traditional way before continuing on your way.
Lunch: Ise Udon
You may be feeling a little peckish after your day’s walking and praying, so it’s not a bad time to stop and try one of Ise’s most famous culinary exports: Ise Udon.
There’s a great little udon joint not far from the entrance to Geku Shrine. While their site isn’t in English, they have a picture menu and everything we tried was exquisite.
Onwards to Tamaru!
The last 8.5 km of your day isn’t particularly scenic, but you’re now walking in the footsteps of countless thousands who carried their lives on their backs on the long walk towards Kumano Hayatama Taisha.
The road to Tamaru is mostly along the road and there isn’t much to show you that you’re treading an ancient pilgrimage, but it’s a great opportunity for you to reflect on your day and contemplate the fact you’ve tackled the first 1/17th of your long walk.
Tamaru Castle is one of the more noticeable aspects of Tamaru. Don’t worry, we’ll visit it tomorrow! Photo from Adventures Around Asia.
Overnight in Tamaru or Ise
As Tamaru and Ise are easy to travel between on a local train, you might wish to return to your accommodation in Ise tonight. This not only saves you having to lug your bag with you on a long day of visiting shrines, but also means you don’t need to try and find a place to stay in less popular Tamaru.
We opted to spend a second night in Hinode Ryokan, as it’s a long day to be hauling bags around, and Hinode has an amazing onsen that you’re going to want a second night with.
Highlights: Tamaru Castle, Meki-Toge Pass, and dinner at Hinakaya.
It’s another early start today, as we’ve got a long day of walking ahead of us. The highlight? The very first toge (mountain pass) that lies along our path to Hayatama Taisha.
The good news is that today is a relatively easy day of walking, with just the one small mountain in between us and the sleepy little town of Odai.
Tamaru Castle (Optional)
Situated on the road between Tamaru Station and the Kumano Kodo Iseji route, Tamaru Castle is worth a look if you’ve got some time and want to soak in a bit of Edo history.
While the castle itself is little more than foundations atop a hill on the outskirts of the town, it does afford you a great view of the route you’ll be walking later in the day.
The lack of English signage makes it a bit difficult to appreciate the site’s history, but we were lucky enough to have a local guide who explained that the castle’s short life was the result of a thieving accountant who burned it down to cover his tracks.
Don’t worry, he got what he deserved.
The road from Tamaru to Meki-toge cuts through rural farmland.
Meki-Toge Pass
The first real walking of the day takes us out of Tamaru and along a highway as it cuts through a tapestry of gold and green fields. The walk isn’t particularly spectacular, but it’s easy walking and you’ll soon begin to make your way up towards Meki-Toge pass for your first real ‘challenge’ of the trek.
I say ‘challenge’ because Meki-toge really is a pussycat when it comes to toge. Making its way through some pretty dense forest, the path and wagon trails seem to be perennially shady and cool as you make your way up.
Near the top, you’ll be faced with two options for completing your passage. You can make your way up to the scenic viewpoint for a better view of what lies ahead, or you can make your way through the cut-away pass where 1,000+ slabs of granite were carved away to make way for wagons and pilgrims.
(If you want to see both, it’s quite easy to head to the cut-away pass and then backtrack to make your way to the viewpoint)
Making your way down off Meki-toge is like passing into another world. The busy roads and urban sprawl that were your backdrop for the first two days give way to tea fields, rice paddies, and sleepy little villages. It’s a pretty spectacular transition.
The farms of Mie Prefecture are every bit as eye-catching as the mountains and forests.
Onwards to Odai!
The walk from Meki-Toge to Odai is a relatively easy one, and it’s made all the easier by the more serene environments we’ll be making our way through.
You’ll wander along the banks of the Miyagawa River, pass through idyllic little farm towns, pay your respects at the gorgeous Yanagiharakannonsenpuku Shrine, and even pass by the famous Gensaka sake distillery. While this distillery doesn’t conduct tours, you might want to duck in and grab a bottle of their sake. It’s amazing.
You’ll eventually finish in the nondescript little town of Odai, where you’ll overnight in an especially homey ryokan whose chatty owner puts together delicious meals. He’s also a font of knowledge when it comes to the Kumano Kodo Iseji, so don’t be shy about putting his (admittedly limited) English to the test!
Dinner at Hinagaya (Optional)
If you have a little extra cash and want to try something really spectacular, I can’t recommend Hinagaya highly enough.
One of the most famous restaurants in Mie Prefecture, this gorgeous little restaurant does traditional kaiseki cuisine that is likely to be the best thing you eat while you’re in Japan.
Without a word of hyperbole, I can say our meal at Hinagaya was far and away the best meal we had in our five weeks in Japan. It’s really that good.
It’s also expensive, so you may wish to avail yourself of your ryokan’s dinner instead.
Highlights: Deer burgers at Road Station Okuise. Optional SUP on Oku Ise.
Today is a considerably shorter and easier day than the previous two, but it’s a good opportunity to snatch a little extra sleep and let your legs get a little rest.
Not only does today not feature any toge, but you’ll actually have finished your walking by early afternoon. This gives you a great chance to relax, explore Misedani, or (as we did) try your hand at stand-up paddleboarding out on the gorgeous Oku Ise Dam.
Tochihara to Misedani
Today’s walking is some of the easiest you’ll do on the Kumano Kodo Iseji route, as you’ll be mostly walking along the side of the road and through quiet little towns.
It makes for a pretty day’s walking, and we remember it as one of the more pleasant days we had on the road. On a sunny day, these sleepy towns make for great photographs. The locals are all too happy to step out and wish you good morning as you go too.
Deer Burgers at Road Station Okuise
Road stations like the one at Okuise are a vital part of rural life in Mie Prefecture. Acting as tourist information centres, supermarkets, gas stations, and restaurants all at once – these bustling little community hubs are a common sight along the Kumano Kodo Iseji route and a great place to get a cheap meal.
Most road stations offer the standard Japanese cuisine: udon, ramen, miso soup, tonkatsu, curries etc. Okuise, however, is famous for its deer burgers on locally made green tea buns. They’re definitely worth stopping in for!
Bite-sized and oh so delicious. Photo from Adventures Around Asia.
SUP on Oku Ise Dam (Optional)
If you’re not really keen to finish your day after lunch, the nearby Miyagawa River presents one of the most gorgeous SUP experiences you’re ever likely to have. Running from March to November, Verde offers SUP Tours that are a great way to take a break from the road and see a different side of Japan.
People don’t often associate SUP with rural Japan, but we absolutely loved our private afternoon exploration of the river. We may have been absolutely terrified of falling into the water on a 10C day, but damned if it wasn’t absolutely breathtaking.
Stand up paddle boarding is remarkably easy on these mirror flat waters. Photo from Adventures Around Asia.
Highlights: Takihara-jinja Shrine, Misesaka-Toge Pass, Takihara-no-miya Shrine, and Aso Hot Springs.
When I look back on my experience hiking the Kumano Kodo Iseji, this day might actually have been my favourite. Not necessarily because it’s the most visually spectacular or physically challenging, but because it was the first day Richelle and I were completely on our own and able to set our own pace.
While we were grateful to have the Mie Prefecture arranging our trip for us, it was definitely a nice experience to escape our minders for a day, carry our own packs, and just experience the Kumano Kodo Iseji as it was intended.
Your day will see you pass through a gorgeous toge, pay your respects at the sister shrine to Ise Jingu, and get naked with a bunch of old people. What’s not to love?
Oddly, it was quiet moments on our own that stand out the most for me.
Takihara-jinja Shrine
Setting off after breakfast, it’s a relatively short and peaceful walk to the unassuming Takihara-jinja Shrine. While it lies a little off the official Kumano Kodo Iseji route, this quaint little shrine is nestled in the woods on the edge of the Miyagawa River and was once serviced by a nearby ford that made it possible to cross the river.
Mythology states that a local man helped the goddess, Yamatohime cross the Miyagawa River here in years past, and has since been enshrined here. A small shrine here is also worth a look.
Misesaka-Toge Pass
A slightly harder ascent than Meki-toge on day two, Misesaka-Toge is nonetheless a very achievable walk through some wonderfully undeveloped forest. Richelle and I were enchanted by the towering trees, the ratatat of woodpeckers, and the delicious cool of a forest after rain.
While the October typhoons had definitely knocked some trees down and carved a few precarious precipices into the path, it was a fun and only slightly challenging climb.
Wandering through unspoiled forest never gets old.
Takiharagu Shrine
One of Japan’s most holy sites and a sister to the Ise Grand Shrine where we started our adventure, Takiharagu Shrine (more commonly known as just Takikara Shrine) undoubtedly shares a lot of similarities with the Naiku Shrine in particular.
Here, you’ll again wash your hands in the river before making your way through some unspoiled forest to the shrine to pay your respects.
If you thought Ise Jingu was quiet, you’ll be delighted by how utterly serene and silent Takihara Shrine feels.
A nearby road station is a good place to grab a quick curry or udon for lunch.
Aso Hot Springs
The remainder of your day’s walking is not especially interesting, as you’re back on the side of the highway or walking through some pretty dull towns.
To break up the monotony, it might be worth paying a visit to the Aso Hot Springs.
Located inside a former school, this is a very traditional onsen experience. Expect to see lots of naked old people who are not at all shy about letting it all hang out.
Still, there’s something surreal about soaking in an onsen and then having a cup of tea in what is clearly a former classroom.
From here, it’s a short walk to our accommodation for the evening!
Today is a big day of walking and one we had to do in the pouring rain and bitter cold. We were also stupid enough to tackle both of the toges on the route, but a sane person would just do the one.
Tsuzurato-toge is the original route that Kumano Kodo Iseji pilgrims would have taken, and it’s also the first World Heritage-listed pass you’ll encounter on your long walk to the Kumano Sanzan.
With that being said, the more modern (400 years old) Nisaka-toge is also World Heritage Listed, so it’s really about whether you want a tough hike or an easy downhill today.
As we were stupid enough to hike both, I can tell you all about both!
While pretty, the mossy stones can be a tad treacherous on a rainy day. Photo from Adventures Around Asia.
Tsuzurato-toge
Considered to be one of the more difficult toge on the Kumano Kodo Iseji route, Tsuzurato-toge is also one of the most spectacular. Offering pilgrims their first view of the distant Kumano Sea, it marked an important landmark on the often perilous journey south.
For this reason alone, I think Tsuzurato-toge is a must see. Capturing that view at sunset after a long, wet, frigid day almost made our bleeding feet worth it.
Almost.
There’s a steep ascent, a breathtaking view at the top, and a slippery descent down ancient stone paving. While the climb up will only take you about half an hour, the descent can take an hour, especially if recent rain has turned the downhill into a slide.
Nisaka-toge
Arguably the easiest toge on the entire route, Nisaka-toge is all downhill. You literally start at its highest point and then make your way down to its completion.
A small detour does allow you to take in a view of the Kumano Sea, but it’s not quite as rewarding as the view from atop Tsuzurato-toge.
Still, if your legs are tired or if you’re collecting the all-important teku teku, the Nisaka-toge route boasts two teku-teku. Tsuzurato-toge, for all of its challenges, has just one.
A Note on Accommodation
Our accommodation for this particular night was the gorgeous, but not entirely affordable Tokinoza Hotel. Not only is this one probably not ideal for pilgrims on a budget, it’s also not on the Kumano Kodo Iseji route.
While we loved the combination of western luxury and ryokan style accommodation, I’m not sure I’d recommend this one unless you could arrange your own transfers to and from the hotel from the Kumano Kodo Iseji route.
Our handler, Genki enjoying a fancy breakfast at our hotel. Photo from Adventures Around Asia.
It’s a leisurely morning of exploration today, as you’ll pay a visit to the fishing village of Uo-machi to learn more about how locals live.
A fishing town might not sound like the most exciting thing in the world, but we were pleasantly surprised to learn more about the village and see how it has adapted to life after fishing. While fishing is undoubtedly still the primary industry, tourism is something the locals are embracing with enthusiasm.
There are English language maps available to help you form your own walking tour, or you can just pass through and soak in the ambiance (and that distinctive fishy smell) on your way to the first of four toges for the day.
Richelle being awesome at Uo-machi
Ikkoku-Hirakata-Miura toge
A treble of toge to start your day, all three combine into one long but not especially challenging walk.
You’ll pass over three relatively low toges in three hours, with the latter two offering some pretty lovely views of the Kumano Sea and black pebble beaches.
Ikkoku-toge barely feels like a toge at all, as you basically pass through a local construction site before completing the short walk to the town of Furusato.
We actually overnighted at Minoshima in Furusato, which was a nice experience, but a bit unnecessary given how short the day’s walking was.
Hirakata-Miura toge makes for more challenging and more picturesque hiking, with some great viewpoints along the way and the cute Wakamiya Shrine at its conclusion.
Hajikami-toge
The last pass of the day is a bit of a ‘choose your own adventure’ toge, as you’ve got the choice between the Edo or Meiji routes once you’ve reached the top of the pass.
Both are similarly difficult, with the Edo Route boasting some pretty lovely views of the Kumano Sea as the trade-off for the extra time it takes. We took the Edo route ourselves and found it to be a really pleasant walk.
Highlights: Magose-toge, Binshiyama, and the Kumano Kodo Center.
Today is a day that can be either relatively relaxing or one of the tougher days hiking you’ll endure. In fact, I’d go so far as to say that it is the hardest day on the entire Kumano Kodo Iseji route if you opt to include Binshiyama.
Without this towering mountain, however, it’s a relatively peaceful day that finishes with you exploring the comprehensive Kumano Kodo Center to learn more about the route’s history.
Magose-toge
A remarkably pleasant mountain pass, Magose-toge boasts some of the most well-preserved and visually stunning stone paths you’ll find on the Kumano Kodo Iseji route.
While the city of Owase is one of Japan’s rainiest cities, the cunningly wrought stone path somehow manages to avoid the worst of erosion by acting as a stunning waterfall on rainy days.
A number of intriguing landmarks lay along the path, including an impressive stone bridge and a monument to the poet, Karyoen Toitsu.
I don’t think I’ll ever tire of photographing the path to Kumano.
Binshiyama (Optional)
If you’re a sucker for punishment or just want to take a stunning photo atop Zou No Se (the elephant’s back), you can opt to veer to the right atop Magose-toge and make the long (two hour) trek to the top of Mt. Binshi.
I’m not going to mince words here, this is the hardest climb you’ll come across on the Kumano Kodo Iseji. All of the guidebooks will tell you how tough Yakiyama is, but it felt like a walk in the park after the seemingly endless uphill of Binshi-yama.
With that being said, the view from atop the Elephant’s Back is totally worth the pain you’re going to feel in your legs.
Sorry, Mum!
Tengura-san (Optional)
If you fancy a little extra hiking without putting yourself through the experience of climbing Binshiyama, the relatively easy ascent to Tengura-san is just thirty minutes from the top of Magose-toge and affords similarly spectacular views of the ocean and the surrounding land.
While we didn’t make this side trek, I’ve heard its quite lovely.
The Kumano Kodo Center
Regardless of how you choose to fill your day, you’ll definitely want to pay a visit to the brand new Kumano Kodo Center at the end of your day’s hiking.
While much of the signage is only in Japanese, a free audio guide makes it possible for you to learn all about the Kumano Kodo Iseji route as well as the many historic sites that lie along its length.
An attached restaurant and onsen are also a good way to wrap up your long day on the road.
Highlights: Yakiyama (Mt. Yaki) and Miki-Hago-toge.
If you didn’t tackle Binshiyama (and I wouldn’t judge you for skipping it), then today is going to be your toughest day on the road. If you did head to the Elephant’s Back, however, you’ll find today a comparatively tolerable day of hiking.
Yakiyama
Historically, Yakiyama marked the most treacherous portion of the Kumano Kodo Iseji route. A towering mountain whose stone paths seem to wind through a persistent twilight due to the dense forest, many pilgrims met an unfortunate end at the hands of wolves, bandits, and treacherous footing on this daunting obstacle.
Thankfully for modern hikers, Yakiyama is now a long but very achievable morning’s hiking. Taking 4-5 hours to cross completely, Yakiyama is also one of the most visually stunning portions of the route.
From crumbling temples to moss-shrouded gravestones to sun-dappled clearings, Yakiyama is sure to be a highlight of your hike.
Yakiyama presents an intimidating obstacle on the road to Kumano.
Miki-Hago-toge
After the thrill of making it over Yakiyama, Miki-Hago-toge might feel like a bit of a letdown. Still, its distinctive stone walls and the viewpoint atop Miki-toge are highlights.
Miki-toge is one of two passes I tackled on my own due to Richelle’s injury. It’s arguably the shortest toge of the entire hike, while Hago-toge is a slightly more substantial hike. Even combined, they’ll feel like a nice cooldown after Yakiyama.
Every toge presents something a little different, but are united in an overall beauty. Photo from Adventures Around Asia.
Highlights: Scuba diving, water sports, and relaxing!
After two tough days of hiking, I’ve suggested taking today as a rest day.
Mikiura Guesthouse, which was hands down our favourite ryokan from our trip to Japan, is a gorgeous little private house from which you can venture out for snorkeling, scuba diving, or hiking to what the owner dubbed ‘the Machu Pichu of Japan’.
While this last claim may be hubris, I can’t think of a better way to unwind after eight straight days of hiking than with a soak in the cedar tub of this lovely B&B.
This cedar bathtub was life changing. Photo from Adventures Around Asia.
Highlights: Sone-jirozaka-tarozaka-toge, Nigishima-Okamizaka-toge, Hadasu-no-michi-toge, Obuki-toge, and Kannon-michie-toge.
Today is your last big day of hiking and its jam-packed with toge. After Yakiyama, this is considered the second hardest day of hiking on the entire Kumano Kodo Iseji route.
It’s certainly the longest day distance wise, and you’ll definitely feel the burn in your calves after crossing seven toges in the course of a single day.
Sone-jirozaka-tarozaka-toge
The longest pass after Yakiyama, this daunting treble of toges is certainly a tough way to start your day. Poor Richelle, dealing with a sprained ankle, had a torrid time on this long stretch of stone path and an ominous number of graves.
Still, if you’ve survived Yakiyama (and possibly Binshiyama), this will be a tough, but totally achievable hike.
Nigishima-Okamizaka-toge
The second and final pass that I had to tackle on my own, the double-barrel Nigishima-toge and Okamizaka-toge is a moss covered, fairly long pair of toges that shouldn’t prove too challenging.
It’s undoubtedly a pretty stretch, but in a day over-full with mountain passes and forest trails, it tends to blend in with the others.
Stone stairs such as this (from Matsumoto-toge) are prevalent along the way. Photo from Adventures Around Asia.
Hadasu-no-michi-toge
More path than actual mountain pass, Hadasu-no-michi has the honour of being home to the oldest stretch of path on the entire Kumano Kodo Iseji route.
It might seem unassuming as you walk along quiet village streets and even duck through people’s backyards, but the few hundred feet of stone path on this particular toge date back to the Kamakura period (1185 – 1333), making them substantially older than the Edo & Meiji era paths that are predominant on the route.
Obuki-toge
Part one of a tiring two-part journey that also takes in Kannon-michi-toge, Obuki-toge is one of the more forgettable stretches of mountain pass you’re going to encounter.
While it possesses beautiful stone paths and remarkably well-preserved stone walls, it’s not something you haven’t seen before on the hike.
The real highlight? A surprisingly grueling off-road slog that sees you abandon the stone paths for a virtual goat track that connects this toge to the impressive Kannon-michi toge.
Kannon-michi-toge
Once you’ve survived the occasionally torturous uphill climb through the undergrowth from Obuki-toge, you’ll arrive on Kannon-michi-toge. This is one of the more distinct toge on the Kumano Kodo Iseji, as it has great significance to the Kannon faith. Lined with 33 Kannon statues and sporting an impressive ruined temple, it is definitely worth the effort to reach.
In years gone by, people would choose Kannon-michi or Obuki-toge, and you’re perfectly welcome to do this yourself. My pick? Try Kannon-michi-toge.
If you’re a completionist or you’re collecting teku teku, you’ll need to tackle both.
Kannon-michi-toge is one of the more unique passes on the Kumano Kodo Iseji route.
Highlights: Scenic boat tour, outdoor activities, Tori-toge, or just relax!
After another hard day of hiking, this is a good chance to put your feet up and explore Kumano City.
Hugging the coast as it does, this city is a great place to check out the local flavour.
Our own experience in the area saw us hiking Tori-toge, taking a scenic boat ride out on the Pacific Ocean, and visiting a number of local attractions such as the Onigajyo Centre and the Kinan Tour Design Centre.
If you’re feeling like you need a little pampering, I’d recommend the lavish Kumano Club Resort. Not only does it have great food and a huge onsen, it can also arrange day trips to Tori-toge and the impressive Sagiri-no-sato rice terraces.
The rice terraces at Sagiri-no-sato are worth a visit. Photo from Adventures Around Asia.
Highlights: Matsumoto-toge, Onigajyo, Lion’s Head Rock, Hana-no-Iwaya Shrine, and the Hama-kaido Route.
Rise and shine, hikers! It’s our final toge day!
Just one relatively easy toge lies between you and the flat of the Hama-kaido Route. We’re on the home stretch!
After tackling scenic Matsumoto-toge after breakfast, you’ll wander along the black pebble beach of Hama-Kaido for the rest of the day. A number of impressive monuments and attractions lie along the path, so it’s a fun day.
It’s also our penultimate day of hiking!
Matsumoto-toge
One of the most popular passes on the entire Kumano Kodo Iseji, Matsumoto-toge is an easy and pretty morning hike. It’s especially so during the spring, when cherry blossoms colour the entire area like fragrant snow.
One of my most enduring memories from the trek was listening to our guide sing a traditional folk song atop the pass. As you take in the view, its a bittersweet feeling to know you’ve nearly reached your goal.
This famous Buddha sports a bullet hole. The story behind it is a fun one! Photo from Adventures Around Asia.
Onigajyo
Translated as “The Monster’s Castle”, Onigajyo is a distinctive rock formation that is well worth the detour to experience.
While the official route instead follows the highway (for God knows what reason), this is a far more scenic option that brings you right out onto the long stretch of beach that marks the home stretch of the Kumano Kodo Iseji route.
Richelle braves the Oni Castle.
Lion’s Head Rock (Shishiiwa)
One of the most beloved images from Mie Prefecture, Lion’s Head Rock certainly does have a leonine aspect from the right angle.
From other angles, it looks suspiciously like Donald Trump.
No need to take a detour here, as your route sees you walk right by the iconic rock formation.
From another angle, Lion’s Head Rock looks suspiciously like Donald Trump…
Hana-no-Iwaya Shrine
One of the holiest sites in Mie Prefecture, Hana-no-Iwaya Shrine (the Cave of Flowers) is a visually distinctive shrine best known for the long rope that trails from an impressive cliff down to the road that runs by the shrine.
The oldest shrine in all of Japan, it is said that the creator goddess of Japan was buried along with her son, the God of Fire after they perished in childbirth.
It’s not hard to get swept up in Japan’s rich religious and mythological history as you stand at the foot of the 45-meter high cliff and pay your respects.
Hama-Kaido Route
We’ll finish our last true day of hiking with a long slog along the black pebble beaches of Hama-Kaido. With the last of the mountain passes behind us, we’ll alternate between the beach and the roadside.
To be honest, it’s a less than spectacular way to finish your trek, but as the distance from Kumano Hayatama Taisha diminishes into single digits, you’ll not care how uninspiring the city is.
Views such as this make the last portion of the Kumano Kodo Iseji quite spectacular. Photo from Adventures Around Asia.
Day 13: Kiho Town to Kumano Hayatama Taisha
Distance: 4.5 kilometers.
Accommodation: N/A.
Highlights: Hayatama Taisha.
You’re almost there! It’s just a short walk to your ultimate goal, Kumano Hayatama Taisha.
I won’t lie and say it’s an especially scenic hike, as you’re again alternating between busy streets and quaint village roads.
But when the bridge from Mie Prefecture to Wakayama Prefecture comes into view, you’ll be hard-pressed not to give a cry of excitement.
Unbelievably excited to be 168kms down and 2km to go.
Kumano Hayatama Taisha
Once you’re across the bridge and into Wakayama Prefecture, it’s just a few minutes’ walk to Hayatama Taisha.
Once you pass under those bright Torii gates and round one last corner, you’re officially done!
Take your time to pay your respects and soak in the fact you’ve just achieved something pretty spectacular.
You can then choose to overnight nearby (I’d recommend returning to Hana Asobi or finding a hotel in the city) or take the afternoon train back to Nagoya or Ise.
Catching Hongu Taisha and/or Nachi Taisha
There’s also the option to extend your trip by heading to the other two Kumano Sanzan sites.
While you might not feel up to hiking all the way there today (or even the next day), you can always take a cab or make use of public transport to complete the trio.
We did it!
Day 14: REST DAY
This day isn’t necessarily a day to rest at the end of your trip, but a ‘floating day’ you can inject into your itinerary should inclement weather, an injury, or general bone-tiredness interfere in your careful planning.
By budgeting this extra day + your two rest days, you’ll be prepared for any minor disasters that might interfere with your adventures.
An extra day might be necessary if you get lost along the trail following these pink ribbons. Photo from Adventures Around Asia.
Planning Your Kumano Kodo Iseji Trek
Are you planning to tackle the Kumano Kodo Iseji route yourself? Adventures Around Asia wrote the Ultimate Guide to the Kumano Kodo Iseji to help you get started!
Feel free to contact me with any questions you might have about the route, ryokans along the way, or anything else.
If you’re looking for a seven day Kumano Kodo Iseji itinerary, you can check out Following the Arrows’ itinerary.
10 Things You May Not Know about Sydney Opera House
Together with Harbor Bridge, the Sydney Opera House is indisputably one of the most iconic Australian buildings and one of the most recognizable landmarks in the entire world.
But how many of us know all its secrets? How many Sydneysiders walk by it every day without giving even a thought to the building’s history?
1. It is located on an old fort
The Sydney Opera House is standing on what was once a fort: Fort Macquarie, named after the New South Wales Governor at the time.
The fort was built in the 1820s and demolished in 1958. The location is known as Bennelong Point – a rockfish island that takes its name after Woollarawarre Bennelong, the first Indigenous Australian to have visited Europe. Governor Arthur Philip’s interpreter, he convinced the latter to build a brick hut for him on the island and to give the point its name.
2. Initial estimations were repeatedly exceeded
Money-wise, the initial estimations put the cost of building the Opera House at around $7 million. As for the time, four years were supposed to suffice. In fact, the total costs for building the Sydney Opera House went up to $102 million and the whole construction process took 14 years.
3. It was built with lottery money
Given the unfortunate miscalculations, a State lottery was organized to raise the necessary funds to continue the project. A total of 496 draws were held until the grand opening officiated by Queen Elizabeth II in 1973.
As you can see, the Australians’ love affair with having a flutter started quite early in the history of this young nation, before anyone had even heard of Powerball, Oz, Monday, Wednesday or Saturday Lotto. Now you can play all these lotteries online, but back in history, the lottery had a totally different face.
4. Its size is often misjudged
Home to the largest mechanical organ in the world with 10,154 pipes, the Sydney Opera House may seem huge. And it is! It is even bigger than it looks! Sprawling on 5.8-hectares, the Sydney Opera House site is big enough to fit in seven A380 airliners.
5. One day we might be able to spend the night
A proposal submitted last year spoke about allowing up to two-nights accommodation in the Sydney Opera House for 100 guests in a year. And if you are thinking about a hotel being opened inside this iconic landmark, you are wrong: we are talking about sleep-overs. Guests would be allowed to stay in certain locations now occupied by offices.
6. The building is heated and cooled using seawater
Did you know that when the Sydney Symphony Orchestra is playing here, the inside temperature must be of exactly 22.5 degrees? Summer or winter, the Sydney Opera House manages to do exactly that using seawater from the harbor.
7. Architect John Utzon almost didn’t get the project
At the moment, John Utzon is one of the best-known architects in the entire world precisely because of the Sydney Opera House. But one less known fact about him is that he almost missed the project. In 1956, there was a competition to determine the architect of the Opera House project in Sydney, but Mr. Utzon’s project was rejected by 3 out of the 4 judges. It was the fourth judge, world-famous architect Eero Saarinen, who went above and beyond for John Utzon to be granted the project. Eventually, he beat as many as 232 other participants.
8. John Utzon was not there for the entire duration of the project
While this was the defining moment in his career, Mr. Utzon resigned as chief architect in 1966 due to payment issues. Not even public protests managed to bring him back, as he decided to leave Australia altogether that year. Then, in 1973, he was awarded the Gold Medal of the Royal Institute of Architects of Australia on the inauguration of the building. However, he was not present at the ceremony. It wasn’t until the 90’s that he came back to the Sydney Opera House project, but he signed on as a digital consultant for the building.
9. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site
In 2007, the Sydney Opera House finally got the recognition it so greatly deserved and it was included on the UNESCO World Heritage list. It was described as a “great urban sculpture set in a remarkable waterscape”. This architectural masterpiece gets millions of visitors every year and it is one of the most impressive public buildings in the entire world.
10. Arnold Schwarzenegger won his final bodybuilding title here
Long before Arnold Schwarzenegger became Terminator or the Governor of California, US, he was one of the greatest bodybuilders in the world. He won hid final medal for bodybuilding in 1980 and the competition was held in the Concert Hall of Sydney Opera House.
I’m in the midst of my fourth exploration of the United States and there’s still so much I’ve yet to see. Even after factoring in the epic Great US Road Trip of 2016, I feel like I’ve barely scratched the surface.
This time around, Richelle and I are confining ourselves to the West Coast with time in California, Las Vegas, and Seattle. Our only dip away from the Best Coast? Attending her sorority sister’s wedding in Atlanta.
Herewith is an unconventional approach to an off-the-beaten-track tour of the Western United States. The west coast of full of sites you won’t want to miss – national parks, state parks, forests, the stunning Pacific coast, the ocean, islands, and even a volcano!
How can you best experience this fascinating section of the United States? I’ve got your back.
Be Active
Make the most out of your time. This means sleeping only enough to get refreshed; you didn’t travel all the way to the US to sleep. Getting up at the crack of dawn gives you a chance to hobnob with locals on their way to work or sometimes on their way home from work.
Local landmarks tend to be less crowded in the wee hours, as we found during our recent trip to Japan. Of course, it does also mean you’ll have to contend with rush hour traffic, which can be a nightmare in cities like LA.
Driving is simply a means to an end; it isn’t the end in itself – Jack Kerouac.
Never Waste Time
Sitting above a deep gorge in Idaho for hours during fall foliage time when leaves change to red, yellow, orange, brown, and points in between is not a waste of time. Driving on the famed US Interstate Highway System is a colossal waste of time. We use the superhighways only as a quick way to get to a local road we want to travel on.
It’s also a big waste of time to knowingly subject yourself to endless traffic jams. For this reason amongst many others, we feel that Los Angeles and the surrounding area is a waste of time. More on Los Angeles later.
We believe strongly that spending time in Las Vegas gambling is a waste of time. Las Vegas has a lot to offer in the way of entertainment and shows but we say that you ought to do all your gambling at your favourite online casinos for Aussies. Las Vegas is an excellent place to get cheap mid-week hotel accommodations and to use it as a hub for travel in the area.
Since you already speak the language, you don’t need a guided tour except for isolated instances where you have to take a tour such as at the Hearst Estate near San Luis Obispo or to the ghost towns of Las Vegas.
Don’t read. There are many books and websites that can help you organize a tour of the Western US but you should read them before you travel. Time is too precious to waste it on mere reading.
Fly into Seattle
It’s best to travel south from Seattle to San Francisco. When you’re driving south along the coast, you can look out directly at the ocean; there’s no road in your line of sight. In addition, to the west of Seattle are the Olympic Mountains with glaciers and great views. To the west of the Olympic Mountains is a temperate climate rain forest.
In order to get to these fantastic works of nature, you’ll need to rent a car.
Renting a Car
It’s cheapest to rent a car for factors of one week rather than to break your rentals up into smaller chunks of days. Always call the company you want to rent from. You’ll learn a lot about customer service this way. Poor service to a potential customer is a big sign that the company doesn’t really care about you.
If you will be staying fairly far from the rental office, ask if they’ll pick you up or deliver the car to you at no extra cost.
Upgrades often cost about $10-15 per day. For the comfort of a slightly bigger car, this extra cost is well worth it.
Olympic Mountains
We suggest one night in Seattle and then the ferry across to Bainbridge Island. From there to Port Angeles, the unofficial entry point to the Olympic Mountains. Here we urge you to go south toward Hurricane Ridge even though it will take you a bit out of your way when you want to go west to the rainforest.
In the mountains are many glaciers and hiking trails. Some of the hiking trails are quite long and strenuous whilst others accommodate less experienced hikers. Hiking and camping are personal choices so we’ll leave that up to you.
You come down from the mountains the same way you went up and then west to Forks which is the big city of western Washington State.
The Hoh rainforest is a short drive south of Forks. In addition to the rainforest, Forks has a timber Museum. Unfortunately, the hours of this museum are not suited to early risers and the museum closes at 17:00. If you can fit it into your afternoon, it’s well worth the time but we don’t suggest wasting your morning waiting for it to open in the morning.
Forks is a beautiful little town with massive trees as you would expect in an area that gets 3000 mm of rain each year. We have enjoyed early morning walks here with the sea air permeating our lungs.
Head South
After you have spent a few hours in the rainforest, we suggest you begin the long trek south to San Francisco. Here is where driving on local roads becomes oart of the trip. On the high speed super highways, you just travel fast to get somewhere. On the lower speed local roads, you get a sense of where you are all the time.
Be prepared to stop when you see a sign or simply an interesting building.
We’ve stopped in numerous places that just caught our eye. One place, in Pennsylvania, was a small local market of sorts where that sold ground meat from some more unusual animals. We were heading to a local brewery for a tour when we passed this market and stopped. We cherish the picture we took of packages of ground yak, bison, kangaroo and other animals.
Another time, on our way to a winery in Maine, we stopped at a place that called itself the home of home-made sauerkraut. It was the most different sauerkraut we’ve ever eaten and the place also had a five-table restaurant. We waited to get a table for lunch but it was worth every minute.
In short, you make no spur of the moment decisions when you’re driving the super highways and you can make many spur of the moment decisions when you’re on a local road.
San Francisco
We have space here only for one word about this glorious city. Get up early and go for a walk toward the ocean. It amazed us to see people waiting for buses wearing winter coats in August which in the US is usually the hottest month of the year. As we got closer to the ocean, the wind picked up ocean spray; we were happy that we had worn some heavier clothing ourselves! It was glorious!
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