Cheap Sydney Trips – A Day in Manly

While it’s true that Sydney can be an expensive city to visit, that doesn’t mean you need to break the bank to spend an enjoyable day exploring one of the world’s most beautiful cities.

One of my favorite cheap Sydney trips is to spend a day exploring the many beaches that comprise the northern beaches. Manly Beach is the most well known of these, but the likes of Shelley Beach, Dee Why, Collins Beach, and Freshwater Beach are all worthy additions to any visit to Australia.

And all, just quietly, put the often crowded Bondi to shame.

Getting There

One of the best parts about any day in Manly is the memorable ferry ride from scenic Circular Quay across to the Manly Wharf. Ferries depart from Wharf 3 every 20-30 minutes on week days and a ticket will set you back only $6.60. You can get complete information on the ferry here at the Sydney Ferries website.

The Manly Ferry offers up a great opportunity to snap some photos of iconic Sydney landmarks.

The ferry ride takes you past the Opera House, the Royal Botanical Gardens, and the ominous headland where the Harbour opens out into the vast Pacific Ocean – so be sure to have your camera ready to snap plenty of memorable shots. If the weather is sunny, as it often is, sitting outside with the sea wind whipping through your hair and the sun on your skin is a great way to start your day of adventure.

The ferry ride takes approximately half an hour and there’s free Wi-Fi on board, so if you’re not content to soak in the natural beauty of one of the world’s most iconic harbours – you can get some emailing done.

The Wharf, Ocean World, and “The Corso”

Your first stop upon departing the ferry will be the Manly Wharf, and it’s not a bad place to grab a bite to eat before you go exploring. Budget options such as Subway, Gloria Jeans, and Nandos are on hand as well as pricier fare such as Manly Phoenix and the very good Belgian Bier Cafe.

Perhaps most useful of all to those on a budget is the presence of an Aldi Supermarket. This (or the nearby Coles on the Corso) will be a much cheaper option when it comes to picking up drinks and snack food. My personal preference would be towards the Coles, but only because I know their selection a bit better.

As you exit Manly Wharf, you’ll see Ocean World to your left. I’d link you to their website, but it just keeps redirecting me to some annoying site trying to sell me access to a whole slew of tourist attractions. I’ve not been to this particular aquarium just yet, but have heard good things.

A look back down ‘The Corso’ towards Manly Wharf.

Directly ahead is The Corso, a kilometer or so long stretch of cafes; souvenir shops; sit down restaurants; and bars. There’s plenty to see, do, and eat along this particular stretch of road, and the pedestrian arcade is often full of people window shopping or simply lolling around and soaking up the sun.

A few of the better establishments along the way include the Ivanhoe Hotel and the Watervue Restaurant. The Ivanhoe is a great old fashioned Aussie pub that offers up a brutally good $10 steak for those on a budget, but has a menu of considerably more decadent fare if you fancy splashing out.

If you’re headed down to the beach for a BBQ, as I thoroughly recommend doing, there’s an attached bottle shop that will sell you virtually any beer, wine, or spirit your heart could desire.

The Watervue is a tad pricey, with foods ranging from $8-$22 at lunch, but is nice and close to the beach and has a good view of the Corso. It’s a great place to stop for a milkshake and a Full English after an early morning run.

Those on a budget will be more attracted to the likes of Hungry Jacks, Cold Rock, and a selection of bakeries and pie shops. There’s good old fashioned Aussie fish & chips to be found all over the place as well.

Assembled at 4 Pines Brewery for some good beer and great burgers. Photo by Brendan Brumby.

One last mention goes to 4 Pines Brewery, one of my absolute favorite places in Manly for a bite to eat and a beer. They brew their own beer on site (I recommend the Kolsch) and serve up some pretty good burgers as well. This one isn’t for those on a budget, but it’s worth a look when you’re feeling a little more flush.

The Beaches

At the end of the Corso lies Manly Beach. This long stretch of white sand is bordered on one side by the Pacific and on the other by a grassy plaza where tall pines provide excellent shade for those wishing to have a BBQ.

There’s good surf to be found at Queenscliff (head left) and great snorkeling and scuba diving to be found at Shelley Beach (head right). As more of a swimmer than a surfer, I’ve got a particular fondness for Shelley Beach.

A scenic 2k or so walk along the coastline takes you from Manly Beach to the more sheltered Shelley, where there’s plenty of sand to stretch out on and a generous grassy park area at the rear where barbecues and tables can be found. There’s a cafe, restaurant, and bar on site for those who didn’t prepare their own meal in advance.

The walk along to Shelley Beach alone is worth it.

My personal preference for a visit to Shelley is as follows:

  • One packet of ‘snags’ (sausages)
  • One loaf of bread or six pack of rolls
  • Potato salad, pasta salad, or coleslaw from Coles
  • Drinks – Whether they’re soft drink (soda) or beers
Enjoying a birthday BBQ in 2008.
If done right, and believe me I’ve had practice, you can get in a good feed and a few beers and not be out of pocket more than $20 a head – and most of that is the beers. An alternative is to buy a $10 BBQ chicken (again from Coles).
Bring along a football, soccer ball, or cricket bat & tennis ball and you’ve got the makings of a good afternoon of cheap, healthy fun. My last group visit featured all three and a pair of frisbees, and I daresay we all burned off more than what we consumed on that particular hot summer afternoon. That’s where that broad expanse of sand comes in handy…

Shelly Beach is my personal favorite in Sydney
Shelley Beach is also a well known spot for scuba divers and snorkelers hoping to catch sight of an octopus, groper, or even a shark or two. The sheltered bay means you don’t have to contend with rough waters or dangerous currents, and it also means there’s plenty of aquatic life just off the shore.

Other Beaches of Note

My mate Adam fresh from his first surf experience at Dee Why.

Dee Why Beach is another well known surfing beach in Sydney, and is actually where I made my first fumbling attempts at learning to surf. in October of 2010.

Freshwater Beach, sometimes known by its old name of Harbord, is also held in high regard for shore dives and snorkeling, as are Fairlight Beach and Fairy Bower. You can find more information on scuba diving the northern beaches at the Dive Sydney website. With dives started at $75 for a single dive, it might be something I look at doing again real soon.

Other beaches worth looking at include Narrabeen (particularly for water sports such as kayaking), Little Manly (great for a family picnic), and Collins Beach (a well kept secret).

A Day Well Spent

Whether you spend it surfing, swimming, sunbathing, snorkeling, scuba diving, or simply enjoying a lazy beer with a few of your nearest and dearest – a day in Manly can set you back as little as $13.20 for the return trip (if you bring your own food and drink) or much more if you’re feeling like taking a dive or a lesson.

With food options for all manner of budgets and no shortage of beaches to check out, there’s something for all kinds of traveler – be they adrenaline junkies, tan chasers, or simply somebody looking for a quiet escape from city life.

But enough from me. I’ll let my pictures do the talking.

Poem – Coeur D’Alene

If you’ll allow me this indulgence, I thought I’d share a piece of my poetry with you. It’s not something I expect to do regularly – but this one does relate to travel and one particular place that I loved visiting.

Coeur D’Alene isn’t likely to be on many tour itineraries. Hell, it’s unlikely Idaho will make it onto most people’s plans.

But I fell in love with the cute little lake town and the picturesque pine forests that clustered close to the edges of lakes and the simple natural beauty of the place. So, earlier this year in a bout of nostalgia, I wrote this little tribute to Coeur D’Alene.

I’d love your thoughts.

Coeur D’Alene

Photo by Fallon Fehringer.

On the shores of proud Lake Coeur D’Alene,
Hayden, Avondale,
and Pend Oreille
I fell for you, dear Coeur D’Alene
on a bright September day.

‘Midst mountains cloistered all in pine
the Hiawatha did I ride
nerves affray, calves afire
I conquered you with pride.
Through Saint Paul’s pass
Where all was dark
I saw your bright light shine
Did I win your heart, dear Coeur D’Alene,
as you surely did win mine?

On foggy morns I ran your roads
’till my lungs were filled with chill
At dockside as the moon rode high
On sweet Huckleberry ate my fill.

I kissed beneath your star strewn sky
howled my love up to the moon.
Sang merry tune or mournful dirge
with the osprey, coot, and loon.

And when finally I did leave you
I knew I’d never be the same
for having loved in Idaho.
Seen you, sweet Coeur D’Alene.

Friday’s Recommended Reads – September 2nd

Hello again!

Another week and another collection of great reads to get you through the last few hours of your Friday at work. There’s not a lot of new stuff to report on my end unfortunately, but I am pleased to show off my shiny new Aussie on the Road business cards from Moo! They’re all professional looking and shiny and just begging to be handed out to pretty girls on the bus when I’m too shy to say hello.

Take a look!

My shiny new Moo business cards ready to be handed out to all and sundry

It hasn’t all been quiet on the travel front. I’ve got my hostels booked for this October’s visit to Brisbane, Moreton Island, and the Gold Coast.

I’m preparing to register for this year’s Warrior Dash here in Sydney, and I’m also continuing planning for wherever it is I may be next year.

At this point the front-runners for 2012 are teaching in Japan, teaching in Turkey, or saving every spare cent so I can quit my job and backpack around SE Asia until I get sick of it.

What do you think should get the nod?

The Reads

Why China is the Most Intense Country I’ve Traveled To by Round the World L

As her adventures in China continue, Lillie pauses from the hiking and crazy food eating to talk about how easy it is to get overwhelmed by a new place – especially one as fast paced and built up as China.

It’s all too easy to say how amazing your adventures are, but sometimes its good to stop and take off the rose colored glasses a moment. I’m sure we’ve all paused and felt overwhelmed from time to time.

A First Timer’s Guide to the Aussie Barbie by WhyGo Australia

I love it when Brooke takes a moment to look at Australian culture from an outsider’s perspective and gives a guide on surviving in the land down under. This week sees her giving a newcomer a guide to how to do an Aussie barbeque the right way.

From the correct lingo to the best place to have a BBQ, any first timer will be able to look like a seasoned veteran following a read.

Bodie – A California Ghost Town by Don’t Ever Look Back

Don’t Ever Look Back is a newcomer to my blog rotation and I’m already finding plenty to like about it. Having visited the ghost town of Milparinka in western NSW as a child, I already have a bit of a fascination with ghost towns – so reading about and see photos of a real old fashioned gold rush site from California was a bit of a nerdy thrill for me.

Kuranda Village by Lakwatsera de Primera

I had the pleasure of visiting Kuranda Village in late 2010 as a part of my scuba diving weekend in Cairns and immediately fell in love with the cute little rainforest town.

Around the same time I was there, my friend Claire from Lakwatsera de Primera was also exploring the hippie village and also finding it had a lot of charm. In this entry Claire discusses that charm and includes some great pictures from her experience riding the scenic rail to the village.

Australian Sporting Events by Nomadic Samuel

A budding friendship very nearly came to an end when I read this article. The absence of the State of Origin is tantamount to talking about Catholicism and leaving out the Jesus part. Samuel has promised my beer as a means of compensation though, so I’ve let him off the hook.

In all honesty, this is a well researched piece about three of the must see Australian sporting events. It touches on the Aussie fanaticism and tribalism when it comes to sports and does so from the unique perspective of an outsider. Well worth a look.

On Being Adventurous by Suzy Guese

I once remarked on the wonderful little adventures and detours we can take in life, and this entry reminded me of that one a lot. Suzy’s article goes a bit further than mine did though – highlighting the importance of knowing when it’s good to be adventurous and when it’s time to exercise a little caution and play it safe.

Her story of visiting a secluded Irish beach paints a really vivid picture of a good time to play it safe, and the whole article is a must read for any traveler.

Photo Print Giveaway by Seattle’s Travels

This isn’t so much a must read as a great opportunity for you to win yourself some stunning photo prints. Having browsed the album and picked out the one I like, I can guarantee you’ll be hard pressed to choose just one.

And don’t just stop at the photo contest. There’s some absolutely breathtaking photos and fascinating articles all through this new discovery in my blog-roll.

September 2011 Desktop Wallpaper by Everything Everywhere

This one is just a bonus. Gary from Everything Everywhere takes some of the most amazing photos you’ll ever see, and this month you get to have a brilliant shot of the Bern skyline as your desktop wallpaper. It’s decorating my work desktop as I type.

What’s Going On?

I’m somewhat ashamed to say that I have very little to report this week. Aside from my upcoming October trip to Queensland and my daydreaming about plans for next year, I’ve got very little on at the moment.

September 16th is the next exciting date marked on my calendar as I participate in the World Nomads Great Nomad Chase, and then it’s counting down to my trip in late October. Although I might try and fit in a Blue Mountains day trip or some time up in Newcastle before then. All work and no play make Chris a dull boy.

In Case You Missed Them…

Entries this week included:

Don’t See Your Entry Above?

If you’d like to see your link (or just a link you really liked) here next week don’t hesitate to leave a comment here, hit me up on Facebook, or send me a Tweet. I’ll feature the post on Facebook as well as Tweeting it to the Twitterverse and Stumbling it to the Stumbleverse. That’s free publicity!

And, if you haven’t already, don’t forget to subscribe to my RSS Feed.

7 Things You Must Do in Newcastle, Australia

While it’s true that Newcastle has only been my home for two brief occasions (in 2005-2006 and again for a few months in 2010) – I’ll always consider Australia’s steel city to be a home away from home.

Newcastle’s shaded streets and heritage buildings give it a certain old world charm. Photo by Susan Rowley.

Why I Love Newcastle

Growing up, my family moved all over the state and rarely stayed in one place for more than a year or two. The one constant part of my home life was my summers in Newcastle visiting the extended family.

I’ve got fond memories of pool parties at my Aunt Marie’s house; of late night horror movie watching with my cousin David in the basement  of his house; and of countless stinking hot summers spent in front of the fan in my late grandmother’s Rathmines home.

As I grew older, Newcastle got to play host to some of my first forays into the world of clubs, pubs, and other such nonsense. Learning the importance of ‘the circle’ at the long since closed Surf City or shelling out the princely sum of $14 for alcoholic slushies from (the also now closed) Frostbites are amongst my first night life experiences.

I lived in Newcastle for two pretty good years in 2005-2006; got my first post college job there; and even had a few ill fated romances. I started the Knights Crusade, made a lot of great friends, and fell more in love with a city that I already had a great deal of fondness for.

Why You’ll Love Newcastle

  • Amazing beaches
  • Neighboring wine district
  • Untouched wilderness
  • Rich history as Australia’s second oldest city
  • Beautiful foreshore area around one of Australia’s most active ports
  • Heritage architecture
  • Amazing food

And did I mention the amazing beaches?

Just a regular summer day in Newcastle. Nobby’s Beach is quite popular due to its proximity to the city centre.

Seriously. Redhead, Dudley, Merewether, Bar Beach, Nobby’s Beach, and Newcastle beach are all pretty stunning. While most who think of Australia probably leap straight to Bondi, I’ll always have Newcastle beaches leagues ahead of those in Sydney.

Last year, Lonely Planet listed Newcastle as one of the Top 10 Cities for 2011. My initial reaction was a mixture of pride as a former Novocastrian and then, sadly, it was confusion. I wrote more about this matter when I talked about Newcastle’s unfulfilled potential.

But don’t go read that yet. Read on!

As I said, there are a lot of great reasons as to why you should visit Newcastle and below you’ll find eight of the things I think you must do to really experience Newcastle or ‘Newie’ as it is known by the locals.

So grab a bus or train up from Sydney and treat yourself to one of Australia’s hidden gems.

The Big Seven

#7 – Picnic at King Edward Park

Thousands on hand to watch ‘Up!’ at King Edward Park in early 2010. Photo by Fallon Fehringer.

King Edward Park might just offer one of the most striking picnic locations in New South Wales. Nestled in a naturally occurring bowl leading down to a stunning cliffside view of the Pacific Ocean – King Edward Park is populated by evergreen trees and decorated in Victorian Style to create a truly English feel without the associated bad weather.

Perfect for a mid afternoon picnic, King Edward Park is perhaps my favorite part of Newcastle. It’s often used for birthday barbeques and weddings, but also offers up open air movies in the summer that give the family a nice way to spend a warm evening out.

#6 – Sample the food on Beaumont Street and Darby Street

The industrial history of Newcastle perhaps belies that fact that it’s fast emerging as a kind of foodies playground. Darby Street in Newcastle city and Beaumont Street in Hamilton both offer some of the best that Australia and the world have to offer.

Darby Street, stretching from Newcastle city and up towards Merewether and Bar Beach is a wonderfully upbeat street lined with cafes, coffee shops, bookstores, and boutiques. Plenty to keep you occupied for an entire afternoon.

A bit of delicious Indian food. Photo by Vig

With food ranging from Indian (try Raj on Darby) to Vietnamese to good old fashioned Aussie pub fare – Darby Street is a short walk from Civic Train Station and easily reachable by bus.

Beaumont Street is a little further afield in Hamilton, but certainly worth a look on its own. Just like Darby Street its packed full of cafes, bookstores, and boutiques – but by night it has a really charming atmosphere as its pubs open, its dinner theatres kick into gear, and the city’s residents come out in search of a delicious bite to eat.

Beaumont Street offers a broader range of food options, with the suburb’s website boasting 42 different restaurants and cafes in operation. There’s the obligatory Italian, Indian, and Vietnamese – but there are a few more unique options as well.

A few of the colorful characters from the Kavon.

Two of these are the Kavon Theatre Restaurant (former employer of this writer) and the Lockdown Theatre Restaurant – offering viewers dinner and a show in horror and prison theme respectively.

Definitely a fun night out. And I’m not just saying that because I was once the Mad Hatter in their lineup.

So while Sydney and Melbourne are still the undisputed lords of food in Australia, don’t discount industrial Newcastle. There’s some great tucker there.

#5 – Attend a Newcastle Knights game

The Knights Crusade on the Central Coast following a 2007 game against South Sydney.

Second only to coal in the hearts and minds of the locals, the Newcastle Knights have been a local institution since they joined the NRL (National Rugby League) in 1988. For the longest time, the battling Knights stood for the equally battling locals in the face of recession and the closure of local employers such as BHP.

These days the Knights aren’t quite the institution they once were, but there’s still something to be said for seeing a game live with some of the most fanatical fans in the world.

Hunter Stadium, located a short walk from Broadmeadow Station, plays host to Knights games through autumn and winter. Tickets are pretty affordable, starting at $23.00 for general admission (seating on the grassy hill) and ranging up to $38.50 for a seat in the newly constructed Andrew Johns Stand.

A day at the footy is an experience all of its own. Get there early to watch the young guns play, grimace through the low rent pre-match entertainment, eat some Aussie fare such as the Chico Roll or meat pie, and watch some hard hitting footy. You won’t regret it.

#4 – Spend a day on Lake Macquarie

Newcastle might be better known for its beaches, but it also plays host to Australia’s most picturesque lake. That doesn’t sound like much of an achievement in a country as dry as Australia, but Lake Macquarie stands up to the lakes I saw during my travels in the United States quite admirably.

Lake Macquarie is a saltwater lake that is surrounded on three sides by the ever growing city of Lake Macquarie (often mistaken for Newcastle) and is connected to the Tasman Sea by a small channel.

Twice as large as Sydney Harbour and, in my eyes, every bit as striking – Lake Macquarie is a mecca for picnickers, sailing enthusiasts, fisherman, and wildlife lovers.

A boat at dock in Lake Macquarie near Valentine.

Every summer the surface of the lake is covered with speedboats, fisherman in dinghies, and would-be sailors out enjoying the sun. The shores, lined with parks and bike tracks, are similarly abuzz with activity.

By night there’s plenty of reasons to love Lake Macquarie as well. After it’s played host to perhaps the most beautiful sunset you’ll ever see, there are countless cafes and sailing clubs that offer great food and ridiculously cheap beer. My personal recommendations would be the clubs at Swansea or Valentine.

Lake Macquarie, more than Newcastle’s beaches, is the area’s playground. It is, unfortunately, just not as accessible. While a variety of buses service the lakeside suburbs, you’ll find that Newcastle’s trains won’t get you particularly close.

#3 – Go on a Hunter Valley wine tour

Aside from its beaches and waterways, Newcastle’s other big draw card is the neighboring Hunter Valley region. With nine wineries offering tours and literally dozens of others than can be visited – wine lovers are going to be on cloud 9 as they explore this lesser known alternative to the Barossa Valley in South Australia.

It’s not just wine tours either. There’s the chance to soak in the rolling green hills in a horse drawn carriage; restaurants and cafes offering a range of foods for different budgets; beautiful bed and breakfasts to spend a cool weekend in; and even the chance to get up close and personal with some iconic Australian wildlife at the Walkabout Wildlife Park.

Simply put, the Hunter Valley is one of New South Wales’ rapidly developing tourist regions. While not technically Newcastle (the city lies in the Hunter Valley) – its close enough to do a day trip and be back in time for a bite by the water.

Hot Tip: This tour in particular looks very enticing.

#2 – Get up close with the native fauna at Blackbutt Reserve

Posing with a koala at Blackbutt Reserve in 2010.

It’s true that you can’t cuddle with a koala in New South Wales. Only Queenslanders have the pleasure of being able to pick up our iconic plush marsupial friend.

But Blackbutt Reserve, located just 6km from the heart of the CBD and within walking distance of a train to Kotara Station, lets you get pretty bloody close!

Blackbutt offers up a variety of picnic spots and idyllic bushwalks, as well as being host to a small wildlife refuge offering a chance to get up close and personal with some of Australia’s more famous residents.

The thrill of feeding an emu proves all too much for this American tourist.

There’s a small zoo for Australian animals on site boasting a variety of birds, reptiles, and smaller marsupials. You can hand feed an emu, snap photos of lazy kangaroos, and pat a koala after posing for a photo with it. This last does cost a little extra, but $4 is worth it.

You can also book private encounters for $45. That sounds a little suss, surely?

The reserve is maintained by the Newcastle City Council and staffed mostly by volunteers. Any money you can see your way towards spending or donating at the reserve goes a long way towards improving facilities.

#1 – Walk the Bather’s Way

The iconic Nobby’s Headland. The breakwall was built by convicts. Photo by Fallon Fehringer.

It was tough to think of my #1 must not miss feature of Newcastle, but I eventually settled on the beautiful Bather’s Way. I’m cheating a little here and extending it into the city some – but this day long walk is guaranteed to give you a newfound appreciation of Newcastle.

Starting at Newcastle Station (the last stop on the line) – you’ve got a few food options. Historic Customs House is directly across the road and offers a range of beers and fancier fare, but if you’re on a tight budget you’ll find there’s more affordable options a short walk away on the foreshore.

Queen’s Wharf Tower (known locally as the Penis Tower) offers stunning views of th e harbour. Photo by Susan Rowley

With the skyline dominated by the phallic Queen’s Wharf Tower, Newcastle’s foreshore offers a unique view of the city’s very busy harbour. A quick climb up the tower offers even more stunning views, but be warned – the structure does tend to sway unnervingly in the breeze blowing in off the ocean.

Down below, Scratchley’s on the Wharf charges Sydney prices for their food – but you’re also paying for a great view of the harbour. The Brewery offers up cheaper pub fare, and there’s various seafood and pizza places along the way as well.

For me, a cheap fish and chips is always the best option before taking the Bather’s Way walk – and you can get away with a good feed for under $10.

The foreshore heading down towards Nobby’s Beach.

From there, walk down the foreshore towards Nobby’s Beach. The beach itself is a stunning windswept expanse with the Bather’s Way starting at the crumbled remains of the Soldier’s Baths and the famous Nobby’s Headland in the opposite direction. A walk out along the headland on a stormy day is something to be experienced, and there’s plenty of art and graffiti along the way.

The remnants of an old rail line leading from the city to Nobby’s Headland. Photo by Susan Rowley.
A bit of sad graffiti painted onto the rocks that comprise the breakwall. Photo by Susan Rowley.
The water crashes over the wall around the crumbled remains of Soldiers Baths. Photo by Fallon Fehringer.

The actual Bather’s Way starts at the Soldiers Baths though, and you’ll see the shattered shell of Newcastle’s first public baths on the very edge of Nobby’s Beach and underneath the watchful eye of Fort Scratchley. While it’s possible to walk along the path overhead, braver walkers might kick off their shoes to walk across the knee deep pool and see a few sea creatures.

The Newcastle Baths offer a welcome chance to cool off along the way. Photo by Susan Rowley.

The trail continues on past the Ocean Baths and Square Hole before coming to the Newcastle Baths. It’s at this point that it might be necessary to stop and cool off, and you’ll be pleased to know that there’s no cost involved in leaping into these old seawater pools. The Newcastle Baths are another local icon, and it’s not unusual to see a pair of newlyweds on hand to get some photos done.

Just married! This happy couple chose the Newcastle Baths for their wedding photos.

All along the walk you’ll find signs full of information and interesting stories – not only about the walk – but also about Newcastle’s maritime history and the brief encounter between Newcastle based soldiers and the Japanese during World War II.

The path winds on past Susan Gilmour Beach and Bar Beach with plenty of cliff-top views and rock pools to keep photographers occupied.

The entire walk takes about two hours and finishes off at Merewether Beach, where you can see more of Newcastle’s famous saltwater pools in the form of the Merewether Pool and Ladies Pool. Perfect place for a dip on a hot summer day.

The ads say that the walk takes two hours or a month full of Sundays, and I can certainly believe that. There’s so much history and natural beauty on the walk that it would be impossible take it all in one walk. Treat yourself to a weekend in Newcastle and take your time.

 In Closing…

The obvious tourist stops in Australia are obvious. Cairns, Townsville, Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne, Perth, and Uluru leap out at you the moment you mention Australia. But you’d do yourself a great disservice to completely overlook Sydney’s northern neighbor.

The laid back inhabitants, natural beauty, and rich history make it an awesome adventure just waiting to happen.

A train to Newcastle from Sydney will set you back around $8 and take approximately 2.5 hours. Newcastle city is serviced by buses and trains with tickets at around $4.

Hostels in Newcastle include Backpackers Newcastle, Backpackers on the Beach, and YHA Newcastle.

Five Things to do in Gwangju, South Korea

Gwangju: A Hidden Gem

Think of South Korea and your mind immediately leaps to Seoul. It’s hard to overlook the massive metropolis that dominates the Korean economy and political scene. It’s the centre of Korean culture and the place the rock bands breeze through on their way to more lucrative touring in Japan.

This photo was just too good not to use at some point. Photo by Tony Bush.

I’ll doubtless touch on Seoul some more in future, but today I’m taking some time to turn the focus onto the often overlooked city of Gwangju in the country’s south-west. The sixth largest city in the country and largely seen as a bit of a rural backwater – Gwangju is not without substantial charms for tourists.

How to Get to Gwangju from Seoul

One of the best things about a Korean vacation is how accessible the whole country is. While you’ll touch down in Seoul – it’s a simple task to get down to Gwangju. The KTX leaving from Yongsan Station in Seoul takes a shade over three hours to make the trip – while buses from Seoul or Incheon International Airport complete the trip in around three and a half hours.

The bus has the benefit of a halfway stop at one of the countless roadside ‘malls’ that dominate Korea. A wide variety of restaurants, shops, and street vendors mean your half hour stop isn’t one of thumb twiddling and navel gazing.

It’s also possible to fly down to Gwangju, which is serviced by its own international airport.

The Five Things You Must Do in Gwangju

Enough about logistics. You’re here to figure out what you should do with your time in Gwangju. On with the show.

#5 – Visit the Boseong Tea Fields

A view out over the tea fields. Photo by Tracey Long.

Located a short bus ride outside of Gwangju, the Boseong Tea Fields offer up a great day trip that not only lets you learn more about Korean culture – but also provides plenty of photographic opportunities.

Local buses from Gwangju can get you out to Boseong in ninety minutes for a affordable sum of 7,300 won (approximately $7). Buses leave every thirty minutes from the Gwangju Bus Terminal. I have to thank grrrltraveler for that information.

Another view of the fields. This one was taken in winter. Photo by Fallon Fehringer.

The rolling hills are home to one of South Korea’s most famous green tea plantations. That might not sound particularly impressive, but take a look at a few of the photos below and you’ll perhaps appreciate how beautiful the location is.

Located on the coast (you can get to nearby Yulpo Beach with a ten minute bus ride), the natural beauty of this place has made it a must see sight for pretty much everybody I ever knew in Gwangju. I’m ashamed to say I never made the trip myself.

It’s not just walking around and looking at tea, although that’s a big part of it. There’s also the opportunity to sample nokcha (Korean for green tea) and purchase a variety of green tea derived products.

The aforementioned Yulpo Beach also offers the opportunity for a green tea and saltwater bath for 5000 won.

Tours of farms and plantations might not sound up your alley, but it’s the beauty of Boseong that sets it apart from the others of its kind. A more serene time will be hard to find in Korea.

 

#4 – Be moved by the May 18 Memorial and Cemetery

One of many statues at the May 18 Memorial Park

The infamous May 18 Massacre in Gwangju is widely considered to have been the birth of the nation’s democracy. Gwangju residents took up arms in protest against the military dictatorship that controlled Korea at the time. Over 150 people were killed in the ensuing riots and police reprisal, but the aftermath saw other uprisings usher in a new dawn of Korean democracy.

In testament the day, Gwangju has a number of sites dedicated to the memory of those who lost their lives. There’s the very moving May 18 National Cemetery and the picturesque May 18 Memorial Park.

The cemetery is a really heart-wrenching experience. Located in at the foot of Meudeungsan and accessible by catching the 518 bus from the bus terminal, the May 18 National Ceremony is open year round. A series of monuments and archways make for some beautiful pomp and circumstance, but it’s the Memorial Tower that captures just what a tragic but vital event the May 18 movement was. Photographs and messages to those who died will conjure up a tear or two from all but the hardest hearted of travelers.

A view up at the stormy skies over the May 18 Memorial Park

The May 18 Memorial Park isn’t quite as moving, but is a beautiful locale in its own right. Located more centrally in the urbanized Seo Gu – the park can be reached by taking a variety of city buses or by taking exit #3 at Uncheon Station and walking for about ten minutes.

The park is a wonderful tribute to what May 18 represented. Not so much because of the monuments (although they are quite interesting) but because the site plays host to children playing, families picnicing, and a gorgeous temple by the name of Muguksa. Surrounded on all sides by high rises and shopping centres, the May 18 Memorial Park is an island of tranquility in the ever swelling sea of urbanized Korea.

A view down the steps from the temple that overlooks the May 18 Memorial Park

Being so far apart, it probably isn’t possible to hit both sites in a day – but both are well worth a look.

#3 – Embrace the serenity of Daewonsa

My quiet place. I spent half an hour sitting in the pagoda and listening to the water running underneath me. Bliss.

I’ve made mention of beautiful Daewonsa on several occasions, but never dedicated any real print to it. I’m a bit hard hearted when it comes to Asian architecture, but my visit to Daewonsa in the summer of 2009 changed my mind.

Dedicated to the Tibetan school of Buddhism and weaving traditional temple design in with the beautiful natural surrounds, Daewonsa is a picture of tranquility.

The archway that acts as the entrance to the temple grounds.

Upon arriving at the temple you step through an intricately carved wooden arch and are presented immediately with a pond. Maybe I’m particularly affected by bodies of water, but I was immediately soothed by the cool coming off the water and the bright colors that surrounded it.

Exploring the temple takes you down wooded paths, over a bubbling stream, and eventually down a thickly forested mountain trail. I took a moment to relax in a shady place by the stream while those I was with snapped photos and just soaked in the sheer beauty of the place.

My favorite part of Daewonsa. I loved the contrast of vibrant orange and serene green.
I could have sat for hours by this pond. So quiet.

There’s also a museum to Tibetan Buddhism on site which includes some very graphic photographs of the atrocities that the residents of Tibet have endured over time. After the temple the museum feels like a bit of a let down, but it is still worth taking a brief detour. The museum charges a small 2000 won fee for entry, while the temple is free.

Daewsona is a 35 minute taxi ride from Boseong Bus Terminal or can be reached directly via the 217 bus from Gwangju.

#2 – Go hiking in Meudeungsan Provincial Park

My sole experience with Meudeungsan came in the form of attending a wedding in mid 2008, but I was taken by the natural beauty of the mountain that overlooks Gwangju city.

Riddled with hiking trails and also the site of several temples (Donghwasa, Jeongsimsa, and Wonhyosa) – Meudeungsan is Gwangju’s playground. Most of my students and there families tended to spend their weekends there picnicking, hiking, or paying tribute at the temple.

You could spend a few days exploring the trails and temples of Meudeungsan and not see it all. Yongchu Waterfall and the Wonhyo Valley offer particularly enchanting stops along your travels.

You can reach Meudeungsan via Jeongsimsa or Wonhyosa Temple. Both are serviced by a number of buses from the Gwangju Bus Terminal.

#1 – Get in touch with the foreigner community

Out exploring Gwangju with my friends Mike and Liz during my first weekend in Korea. 2007.

While it’s true you didn’t travel all the way to South Korea to hang out with foreigners, I couldn’t write about my home away from home without paying testament to the foreigner community in the city. It was the many friends I made in Gwangju that made Korea feel like home to me – and a lot of them have put more than just money in the bars.

Take, for example, the First Alleyway and its sister store – the Underground Grocer. The Grocer was originally started by long term Gwangju resident Michael Simning to act as a place ex-pats could track down cheese, soda, and other foods from back home.

More recently, the First Alleyway has sprung up as a foreigner friendly restaurant and bar offering up some fantastic Western food. I might be a bit biased since I’m good friends with a lot of the people involved, but there aren’t many better ways to kick off a night out than dinner at the Alleyway. And their breakfast menu is riddled with hangover treatments.

The Speakeasy, Gwangju’s oldest foreigner bar, often boasts great live music from ex-pats and Korean nationals alike

Not feeling peckish? Gwangju is also home to a number of great bars. The German Bar offers up some Korean brewed beer in the German style, the ever popular Speakeasy is more reminiscent of clubs back home, Bubble Bar is a hot and sweaty night spot, Soul Train offers up a place to chill and play some pool, and Tequilaz brings a taste of Mexico to Korea – complete with Mexican food and imported tequilas.

Tequilaz is a newer player on the Gwangju bar scene

There’s also a monthly foreigner dinner run by a mixture of foreigners and Koreans looking to network and bridge the gap between the two cultures. It’s a great way to have a sober, social time and make a few new Korean friends as well.

NB: I’ve been informed that the foreigner dinner is in a bit of a state of flux at the moment with a change of organizer. The best bet is to contact Say Kimchi Recruiting.

Go to Gwangju!

So often people go to Korea in vacation and they barely make it out of Seoul. They might hit the DMZ tour, do a little shopping in tourist friendly Insadong, and maybe take the KTX down to Busan to check out the Korean beaches – but too many trips fail to take in the full depth of what Korea has to offer.

Gwangju is, moreso than most other Korean cities, the real Korea. While it’s rapidly catching up to the rest of the country when it comes to adopting Western values – there’s still a lot of the old, pastoral Korea on display here. From the annual kimchi festival to the minor celebrity status that foreigners still enjoy, Gwangju gives you the benefit of seeing authentic Korea without having to give up your creature comforts.

things to do in gwangju