G'day! I'm Chris. I left my home in rural Australia back in 2007 to pursue a life less ordinary.
I specialize in ambitious travel - bucket list worthy journeys such as the Great US Road Trip, the ultimate African safari, and following the length of the Silk Road.
Two weeks ago Anthony from Art of Conversations was kind enough to produce a very cool post about the best food to be found in Melbourne. This week, fresh of being a participant in my weekend’s Tea Gardens excursion, he’s back with some suggestions on things to see and do in Australia’s sport and art capital.
The floor is yours, Anthony…
What to do in Melbourne
Hi Readers,
Anthony from artofconversations.com here with another guest post about my home away from home in Melbourne. In the last entry I spoke about great places to find delicious (and often cheap) food. While you are in Melbourne you might want to see the sights (as well as walk off some of that food) so below are my recommendations of what to do while in Melbourne.
Shopping
The beautiful Royal Arcade in Melbourne
The best shopping in Australia is found in Melbourne. This city has always prided itself on its fashion scene, so it is no surprise that the best shopping can be found there too.
If you are looking at securing a bargain (such as my new Oxford suit for $230 instead of the regular $800) then you will want to check out these Direct Factory Outlets.
If you prefer a more traditional retail environment then you will love places such as Chadstone Shopping Centre or simply exploring the Melbourne CBD.
St. Kilda
Home of the successful St. Kilda AFL club, Luna Park, and the Sunday markets – St Kilda is easily accessible by tram for as little as $2. Like the rest of Melbourne, St. Kilda boasts a great food culture. Couple this with the suburb’s position on the beach and you can see why it is a great destination to visit in Melbourne. Don’t forget to take a walk down the harbour pier to see native penguins and other Aussie wildlife.
Lygon Street
Food lovers love Lygon Street. Don’t expect to see any American fast food chains here because it is cafes and restaurants as far as the eye can see. What makes Lygon Street a little different is the hustle. Many of the popular restaurants have a charming waiter at the front of their site attempting to lure partons in.
If you are feeling adventurous you should pop into Koko Black for a chilli mocha (a chocolate taste with a chilli kick at the end).
The MCG (Melbourne Cricket Ground) is Australia’s most famous sports venue. Photo by Bram Souffreau
Victoria is the home of the Australian Football League (AFL or Aussie Rules). Played between February and October, the AFL is hands down the most fanatically supported sport in Australia and the #1 code in Victoria, South Australia, and Western Australia.
When the red egg isn’t being punted about the field, the MCG is used for Australia’s national pastime – cricket. One of the oldest and most picturesque places to watch sports in Australia is without a doubt the MCG. Many major sporting events are played in this large Colosseum like stadium and you can also do tours of the stadium when sports aren’t being played.
Federation Square
Federation Square in Melbourne
Directly opposite Flinders Street Station and backing onto the Yarra River is Federation Square. This is a popular hang out spot for Melbourne locals, not just because of its unique design but also the variety of free events. Events such as the Bollywood Film Festival, the AFL Grand Final after party, live music, and street performers are just some of what Federation Square has to offer.
History
An ominous shot of the Old Melbourne Goal. Photo by Robert Hoge.
Melbourne is full of rich history and much of it has been preserved through the Elizabethan architecture of the city. The tram network is something unique in Australia – though Adelaide has recently implemented a tram of their own and Sydney continues to build a light rail network – that adds a touch of class and old world charm to traveling through the city.
I’ve barely touched upon the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the things to see and do in Melbourne, but hopefully the above suggestions as well as my restaurant suggestions made in my first post will give you some food for thought when it comes to your Melbourne excursion.
The sun sets over Lake Coeur D'Alene in northern Idaho
It was September of 2009 and the Aussie on the Road was in love.
I’d touched down in the United States at the very tail end of summer and had celebrated six months with the girl I was seeing by sipping Widmer Brothers Hefeweizen and eating deep fat fried feta at the White House in Post Falls, Washington.
The following day, with my jet-lag from the 17 hour flight from South Korea behind me, we woke to a beautiful fall morning and my girlfriend at the time took me to see my first real lake up close and personal.
Do we have lakes in Australia?
Yes and no. I grew up spending my summers on the seaweed strewn shores of Lake Macquarie and have vivid recollections of childhood camping vacations on the shores of the sometimes completely dry Lake Menindee.
But to say I was moved by my first encounter with the shores of Lake Coeur D’Alene or that I was absolutely awestruck when I stood on the deck looking out over Hayden Lake is an understatement.
I’d seen the ocean more times than I could ever hope to count. But there was something amazing and almost terrifying about this vast body of cold, clear water. Unlike the beaches I’d grown up exploring, this was something immediately deep and mysterious. The shore wasn’t soft sand or beachside cafes – but pine covered mountains rising steeply on all sides.
I was immediately put in mind of Stephen King and his descriptions of lakes in stories like The Mist or Bag of Bones. There were no sharks or crocodiles or box jellyfish lurking beneath those eerily still waters, but I felt a strange chill as I gingerly walked towards the diving board that jutted out over the dark blue of the lake.
It might not be evident in the video below that I was quite shaken by the experience. The moment passed with the first startling moment underneath those ice cold waters. You can see that moment below.
After I pulled myself up that ladder and savored the warm kiss of the sun on my goose-bumped flesh, I went straight back in.
Later that day I’d recline in a tube with a Cherry Dr. Pepper in one hand and a handful of home-made Chex mix in the other. I looked up at the azure sky and listened to the way the increasingly cool autumn breeze stirred the pines and made the ropes tethering us to the deck creak.
I soak in the cool waters of Hayden Lake on a warm Idaho afternoon in fall 2009
I didn’t get another chance to swim in a lake before I left the States. The days grew colder and soon there would be snow dusting the lawn of Fallon’s family home. But I still remember that warm fall day fondly and recall the dueling feelings of fear and exhileration as I threw myself off of the diving board and into the waters of Hayden Lake.
I hope someday, somewhere – I’ll get the chance to rekindle my brief love affair with lakes. They’re something most Australians will never really experience or truly appreciate.
It’s noon on a Monday and I’m struggling to keep my eyes open at my desk. I’ve spent the past two days in beautiful Tea Gardens on the coast just north of Newcastle. To say I was surprised by the beauty of the sleepy little village is an understatement. I had no idea that such a stunning location existed so close my former stomping grounds in Newcastle.
I’ll give a blow by blow of an epic weekend of drinking with locals, chasing dolphins, climbing up ridiculously high sand dunes, spear fishing, ribald conversation, and high stakes Scrabble just as soon as I get home, get showered, and get the photos off my camera.
I pity the people sharing a cubicle with me today. I smell of saltwater and hostels. That’s a sexy visual image for you ladies out there.
The whole trip was possible thanks to Ford – who were kind enough to loan me the brand new Ford Focus with a full tank of gas to get there and back again. A big thanks to them for making the trip possible as well as to my friends for tagging along and making it memorable. I’m sure Mel from The Mellyboo Project and Annie from Wayward Traveler will have their own recounts of the experience to join mine soon enough.
Enjoying a coconut on the beach in Hainan, China
The Queensland Odyssey
While there is a wee bit of wailing and gnashing of teeth from this poor sufferer of Mondayitis, I’m not doing it so tough. In fact, in five short days I’ll be packing my bags and getting on my first plane since leaving South Korea to take me off on my first solo adventure.
While I’ve had some unforgettable trips in the past few years that included surfing in Manly, learning to scuba dive on the Barrier Reef, exploring New Zealand, and relaxing in Fiji – all of those trips were planned by my ex-girlfriend and I was just a willing and grateful participant. Planning is not my forte.
But my Queensland trip is shaping up as something pretty damn awesome. I’m really excited about it not only because it’s going to be fun, but because it’s my first brush with planning a whole trip on my own. Consider it a test run for my next big trip.
I’m packing a whole hell of a lot into my trip. There’s two theme parks, a Zombie Walk, Halloween costume shenanigans, catching up with heaps of friends and family, rekindling my love affair with Hell Pizza, and a week living a life of leisure at beautiful Tangalooma on Moreton Island. I’m thinking some scuba diving, stand up paddle-boarding, and sand tobogganing are just what the doctor ordered.
World’s best doctor.
October 22nd to October 23rd – Being a nerd in Brisbane
Affectionately known in my home town as ‘Brisvegas’, Brisbane is a city I’ve visited quite often as a child but never as an adult. I’m looking forward to checking out Queensland’s capital without the leash of parents or teachers to keep me in check. And while I’d originally looked at Brisbane as a kind of boring stop-off before I headed out to the island, I’ve somehow managed to pack heaps into my two days and three nights there.
After touching down in the afternoon of the 22nd I’ll be quickly snapped up by my cousin David and his wife Vanessa, who have kindly offered to put me up for a few nights as well as show me the town. Saturday night holds a visit to Mana Bar. While it won’t be my first brush with mixing alcohol and video games (Ground Kontrol in Portland took that particular honor), it’s definitely a tad more upscale than the Pabst Blue Ribbon and old arcade games of that particular Portland institution.
My first attempt at being a zombie. Dressed up for the Speakeasy Halloween in Gwangju, South Korea. Photo by Derek Hannon.
I’m nerdishly excited about sipping on a richly alcholic Mana Potion cocktail while kicking my cousin-in-law’s ass at a game of Mario Kart. And hopeful that there will be plenty of cosplay enthusiasts there for me to take embarassingly nerdish photos with…
Sunday is a big one. I’ll be up bright and early (and probably nursing a hangover) to get my makeup applied for the Brisbane Zombie Walk. Shambling through the streets of Brisbane with a few thousand of my closest risen dead compadres seems like the perfect way to spend what I am praying is not a hot and humid day.
Once the shambling and the eating of brains has come to an end, I’ll be hurriedly scrubbing off my makeup and fake blood in preparation for a visit to the Brisbane wing of the very popular Belgian Bier Cafe chain. A few comically large beers and a bit of saeurkraut ought to hit the spot after the day’s festivities, and I’m looking forward to catching up with Kiri and her husband Trevor. I had several drama classes with Kiri in school and haven’t had the pleasure of meeting her husband just yet. I just feel bad that the expectant mother won’t be able to participate in the fine beer!
October 24th – Dream World
Me at Silverwood in 2009. My love for rollercoasters should be obvious.
Australia doesn’t have a Six Flags or a Disney Land (or Disney World). Dream World is about as good as it gets on the theme park front in Australia, and it’s not a bad effort for a country that doesn’t seem to share the American fascination with deep fried foods and roller-coasters.
I haven’t been to Dream World since I was twenty or so, and the park has gone all out and installed three insane new thrill rides since my last visit. I’m very much looking forward to trying out the new Tower of Terror, the terrifying looking Buzzsaw, and the Shockwave. And there’s plenty of old friends I need to catch up as well. The Wipeout, Thunder River Rapids Ride, and Captain Stuart Riverboat are all due for a much needed reunion. Then there’s Tiger Island, the legendary iMax cinema, and a few childhood rides that I may be too big to ride. But expect lots of photos and lots of video from my visit to Australia’s #1 theme park.
Later that evening I’ll return to Brisbane for a chance to enjoy a slice of Hell Pizza with some old buddies. In keeping with my nerdy Brisbane adventures, it’ll be a bite with four guys I’ve known for several years as a result of participating in the same fantasy rugby league competition. Having met one of them previously and spoken for years via forum or MSN messenger with the others – it’ll be good to finally be able to put old rivalries inside and share a few beers and a few slices of New Zealand’s greatest export since Phar Lap.
October 25th to 30th – Tangalooma
I’m really lucking out on this one. My old friend and former housemate Ben just happens to work on the idyllic island resort and he just happens to have a spare bed that he’s more than willing to lend me in exchange for a carton of beer and a few lessons in Korean.
Apparently Moreton Island is a very popular destination with Korean tourists. Time to put my broken Korean to the test…
I couldn’t be more excited for my time in paradise. The resort boasts everything from segway tours to scuba diving to dolphin feedings to outdoor cinemas. While it’s not likely to be busy due to it not yet being peak season, I’m looking forward to a few lazy days on the beach with an old mate. And it’s been over ten months since my last foray into scuba diving.
I’m overdue.
I’ll do my best to do the island justice after I’m done soaking it all in, but in the meantime you’ll get an idea of just what I’ll be doing by checking out their website.
October 31st – Halloween at Movie World
My friend Sarah can scarce resist my zombie charms. I am eating a sandwich. Photo by Tim Allen.
The catalyst for this entire trip was my old friend Temissa suggesting that I tag along for Halloween at Movie World. Dubbed ‘Fright Night‘, the event transforms Australia’s second most popular theme park into something out of nightmare by paying tribute to classic horror movies, keeping the thrill rides open late, and having Freddy Kruger and all of his homicidal friends roaming the park.
I’ve got my eye on a particularly creepy costume of my own for the evening.
I’ve not been to Movie World before either, so I’ll be heading over early in the day for a chance to try out multitude of rollercoasters that have made the park famous will be a lot of fun. There’s also a lot of Hollywood themed shows to be checked out such as a Hollywood stunt show and a 4-D ride that I’m intrigued by.
I’ll also get the chance to catch up with an old high school buddy and his new wife after the whole affair, and then it’s back to reality to work a few days (a whole two) before I have to head to my hometown for my ten year high school reunion.
No rest for the bearded.
A much younger Chris at his graduation. Hard to believe it's been ten years! Photo by Jillanne Herbert
In approximately twelve hours a very bleary eyed Aussie on the Road will be stumbling out into the hall, shrugging on a backpack, and piling into the back of a brand spanking new Ford Focus in preparation for a weekend in Port Stephens.
While I am as far from a morning person as one man could be, I do relish the prospect of waking up bright and early to go on a new adventure. It’s been far too long since I’ve experienced the thrill of a day laid out before me without so a new adventure to be had.
It’s all come about over the past few weeks after a representative at Ford emailed me about test driving the new Ford Focus, snapping lots of photos, and writing about my road trip experience. I didn’t let a little thing like the fact I don’t drive get in the way. I quickly contacted my old friend Dave, lassooed in Annie from Wayward Traveler and Mel from The Mellyboo Project, and got a good old fashioned road trip organized. Two cars, six people, and a whole lot of beachside shenanigans.
The original plan had been to visit Jervis Bay, but with no hostels in operation this weekend due to rennovations (I shit you not), we turned our eyes to the north and opted to spend our weekend at the Lazy Paddles hostel in Tea Gardens. It’s about 2.5 hours north of Sydney and nearby beautiful Port Stephens. I’ve been in the area once before and had the thrill of swimming with dolphins.
I’m eager for a second slice.
What’s Going On?
I’ve had a busy week. In addition to my earlier Bite with a Blogger with Mel, I’ve also caught up with the aforementioned Annie to set up next week’s segment. I won’t spoil anything, but suffice to say we found a bloody amazing old school cafe that offered up everything from root beer floats to chicken & waffles to banana cream pie.
Jazz City Diner might just be one of my new favorite places on earth. You can read more about it in yesterday’s Vintage Sydney post.
I’m a week away from my Queensland trip and it keeps picking up steam. I’m not sure where I’ll find the time to actually write about all of the stuff I’ll be doing – and scuba diving just got added back to the itinerary after Tangalooma re0opened their dive shop. Happy day!
I’ll be sure to post a real itinerary for the ten day Queensland expedition sometime next week. There’s also Annie’s Bite with a Blogger segment; a Bite with a Blogger interview at Sydney’s Night Noodle Markets with The Travel Maverick; a third visit to the markets with Nicole from Hola Chica Travels and Jessalyn from Diary of a Wandering Student; and a fifth Bite with a Blogger interview with Nicole next Friday at Vivaz.
That’s a lot of socializing and a lot of good food. Pray for CWB.
I’m also on the move again, although it’s across the city rather than across the world. I’ll be leaving my digs in sleepy Lane Cove and heading to Sydney’s inner west to take up residence with some friends in Marrickville. Cheaper rent and being closer to my buddies were a huge factor, and I’m looking forward to putting that extra cash towards more adventures.
Like the three week trip to Fiji I’m planning with my brothers for next August. Dun dun duuuunnnnn!
But it’s time for those much loved Recommended Reads and here’s this week’s slightly smaller dose.
In the past week I’ve somehow managed to eat galbi, bibimbap, seomgyeopsal, bulgogi, and lots of kimchi. It’s probably more traditional Korean food than I’d manage to eat in an average week when I was ESL teaching in South Korea. Needless to say, all of this delicious food has meant lots of Twitter chatting about the merits of Korean food and Juno (herself from Korea) was kind enough to point me in the direction of this post.
Now I can host Korean parties in my own house! Be prepared new housemates!
I’m becoming more and more interested in the use of media in blogging – and photo essays like these are something I’d love to someday intergrate into Aussie on the Road. This particular photo essay highlights an area I can honestly say I’ve never even contemplated visiting and I’m doubting the sanity of that mindset now. Tajikistan looks so beautiful!
I’ve eaten some pretty weird shit in my time. Whether it was fried grasshoppers at the Arizona State Fair, live sea cucumber during my first month in South Korea, or constant exposure to the skin crawling grossness of boiled silkworm on virtually every street corner in Korea – I’ve grimaced my way through my fair share of meals.
Raymond shows that the weirdness is unending here. Pig’s ovaries? Mmmm! Fried chicken complete with beak? Yummo!
And all told with the trademark Man on the Lam style. Laugh out loud stuff.
I think there are few things more offensive to a traveler than being accused of being small minded. I mean, honestly, isn’t it our open hearts and minds that push us to explore new places and interact with new cultures?
I got a bit of a chuckle (mixed in with some sympathy, I promise) as Anthony talks about the time his bald pate and poor choice of football jersey got him lumped alongside the skinheads in a riot. A really entertaining read. And one that I, as a suffer of male pattern baldness, hope to never experience myself.
This one just stood out from the many, many blogs I read this awake about dream travel destinations or how to budget. I went through a phase of absolutely loving all things Insane Clown Posse during my first year of college and was drawn to the garish makeup and talk of faygo. To be honest, I didn’t think the Posse were still together.
There’s some video in this one and a lot about the Juggalo subculture that will doubtless fascinate a few people. Go look!
And I thought that my brief brush with working as a stripper was a strange job…
Mica recounts her brief stint working as a condom distributor, bed-sheet changer, and occasional DJ on a swinger’s cruise and I really just need to leave it there. Go read. And look. There’s photos…
Fox Nomad is starting to become one of my favorite blogs when it comes to practical advice and inspiration. This is yet another great post (Fox Nomad’s third to make my Recommended Reads) and it’s about turning those idle-at-work daydreams into a reality. I’m actually going to print this one out and pin it up on my wall.
I’ve been guilty of making excuses, I said as much last week, and maybe I need to surround myself with the reasons why my excuses are stupid. Fox Nomad has a pretty damn comprehensive list here.
This past week might have been the most prolific week in Aussie on the Road history. Of course, two of those were guest posts…
Next week promises to be bigger still. I’ve got the Bite with a Blogger interview with Annie from Wayward Traveler; my itinerary for Queensland; a few entries about this weekend’s trip to Port Stephens; a bit of day-dreaming about next year’s Fiji trip; a review of road tripping in the new Ford Focus; and whatever else enters this sleep deprived brain of mine.
I’ve still got a lot of content from Korea and the United States that I’ve never really managed to do justice to.
There’s also the upcoming Aussie on the Road podcast, plenty more video content as I test out my new Kodak PlaySport camera, and I’ll start recruiting writers from around the world to contribute to my Relationships on the Road eBook.
I was recently approached by Michelle from Ravishing Retro about the possibility of doing a guest post. While one might not think that there is a lot of crossover between a travel blog and a blog primarily about the retro lifestyle – I feel like sometimes a place can be experienced through new eyes if you just adjust the angle at you’re looking at it from.
Sydney is best known for the Opera House, the Harbour Bridge, the sport, the food, and the beaches – but there are sides to it that go overlooked and Sydney’s vintage past is one of them. And it goes beyond just checking out The Rocks…
Read on.
Vintage Sydney
Looking dapper at the Porteno Cafe in Newtown
Sydney is a city steeped in history. When you consider some of the glorious old buildings, the statues, the museums and such, there is a lot to explore of of the city’s past; but if you thought all that remained were these edifices, you’d be terribly mistaken. In fact, there are people in Sydney who live the past, and who dedicate their lives to its revival. I speak of the vintage scene, which is a side of Sydney few except the petticoat-wearing devotees themselves encounter.
The “vintage scene” is made up of people who in some capacity live a lifestyle inspired by the past. Though there are of course lovers and re-enactors of all centuries in varying numbers, “vintage” lifestylers are more concerned with the early to mid-twentieth century. When I refer to “vintage” this is what I refer to: the 1920s-early 1960s – anything older than this is considered antique.
You might see an odd hat-wearing fellow pass you by, or a lady wearing white gloves in the middle of summer. These are the devotees of which I speak, who frequent a host of interest-specific stores, places and events. If you’d like to dabble a little in the past, here’s my little guide to vintage Sydney:
The Vanguard, Newtown
If you’d like to dine with the sultry sounds of a 40s jazz band as your soundtrack, The Vanguard is where you ought to be. It’s a beautiful venue in Newtown built to emulate a 1920s theatre restaurant, playing host to almost exclusively retro or vintage-inspired acts: burlesque, jazz, rockabilly music… I can attest to the fact that the crowd is always well-dressed.
Porteno, Surry Hills
At Porteno you’ll be greeted by pin-up Maitre d’ extraordinaire Sarah Doyle, who will show you to your seats in a vintage frock and platinum blonde pin-curls. Your steak will be cooked by two heavily tattooed rockabilly men, their hair slicked back with bryl cream – it’s South American cuisine with a rock’n’roll vibe. This is not just a well-respected fine dining establishment (it won best restaurant in 2011), but also a sort of mecca for the vintage crowd.
Sterling, Surry Hills
Should you envy Sarah Doyle’s pin-curls so fiercely that you wish to emulate them yourself, make an appointment at Sterling in Surry Hills which specialises in retro hair. The ladies can have their hair set in all manner of extravagant vintage styles to the soundtrack of vinyl records, whilst the men can visit the “barber shop” out the back.
Rose Seidler House, Wahroonga
If you’re willing to endure the half-hour drive out of Sydney into the suburbs, Rose Seidler House is worth visiting. It’s a 1950s home designed by the celebrated architect Harry Seidler that is preserved in all its splendour by the Historic Houses Trust. It’s stark, modern style is really quite fascinating. For one day a year Rose Seidler House is transformed into a sort of fete for the annual Fifties Fair, for which devotees of the era clear their calendars months in advance.
Retrospec’d, Newtown
There is quite an impressive array of vintage stores in Sydney, but Retrospec’d stands out as it is predominately a reproduction vintage store. The store sells garments designed to replicate the look and feel of 1940s and 50s fashions, which is particularly useful if it’s difficult for you to find vintage frocks in your size (oh, the tiny waists!)
Green Room Lounge Bar, Newtown
This bar, named for its proximity to the beautiful old Enmore Theatre a few doors down, feels comfortingly like a 1950s living room. As you sit on the retro couches sipping your mojito, old movies are screened with subtitles on the back wall (“Annie” was on last time I visited). The cocktail list is retro-inspired, as is the music. It’s a lovely, casual bar with a distinct fifties flavour.
Jazz City Diner, Darlinghurst
There is a proliferation of old-school diners opening up in Sydney, but Jazz City Diner just off Oxford St is my favourite of these. It serves up traditional American diner food, but really really good American diner food. Sitting up at the counter, you can watch your delicious burger prepared as you sip a malted milkshake, or else hang out in a cute little booth fitted out with its own TV. Simply divine!
Traditional vintage style on display
Sydney has quite a scene for those wanting to live the past, or even for those just wanting to dabble. Petticoats are optional, but if you feel so inclined, there’s a crowd of devotees waiting to welcome you to their retro haunts.
Ravishing Retro
You can read more about Sydney’s vintage/retro scene over at Michelle’s Ravishing Retro blog. There’s plenty of interesting stories about a subculture that – I can admit – I hadn’t heard of until I spoke with Michelle on Twitter.
Michelle is also going to provide me with some future posts on the vintage scenes in Portland and London. Huzzah!
Watch This Space!
I’m going to be organizing a little ‘retro tour’ of Sydney based on Michelle’s recommendations just as soon as I get back from all of my upcoming travel.
Familiar with Sydney’s vintage scene and want to point me in the right direction? I’d love some pointers.
Know of another Sydney subculture that you’re fascinated by? I’d love to hear about it!
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